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Book 33^6* 



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COPYRIGHT DEPOSre 



Practical Cookery" 

A Manual of C9okery 
for Use in School and ^Home 

By 

HANNAH C. DUTAUD 
ll 
Teacher of Domestic Science 



;-■ :■'■ :•*■. .j;.i 



Published by the Author 

1914 

All Rights Reserved 



■\,-,- 



TX 7/5- 



Cbpyright 1914 
Hannah C. Dutaud 
St. Lbuis, Mo. 



C1.ANK-EPR AGU E POINTING CO. 
ST. LOUIS 



DEC 21 1914 

©CI.A3910G7 



TO MY PUPILS 
The Principia Girls 



CONTENTS. 

Page 

l'ri-f;u-c 1 

I ntrudiKt iiiii - 

riTA]''n'K I. 

Siip[j?estions on how to work 3 

I )isli washiuf^ 4 

I'aliU' sor\ ice ."> 

Ivules for serving; ^' 

( )r(ler of service 7 

Se:itin}4" of g^uests 7 

( )r(U'r of (liniiif^ room after meals S 

I IIArTI'lR 11. 

( hemiial lomposition of loods ^^ 

Protein ^^ 

( arhob Ntlrates 9 

h'ats and oils '^ 

M ineral Matter 9 

Water *> 

( )rf^anic anil inorganic foods 10 

CHArTl<:K 111. 

Reasons for Cooking" foods 13 

riiAi'ri':k iv. 

Method of ciH)king- 1-^ 

Ahhreviations and e(|uivalents 1^ 

Ways of preserving foods 15 

Method i>f ci>oking albuminous substances 16 

Method of cooking starchy foods 16 

CMArri'R \ . 

Heverages 1 '^ 

Coffee 1 '"^ 

Cocoa and Choctdate 1^^ 

Keciju's -0 

CllAR'n-R \ I. 

Milk . , 23 

Chemical ct)m])osition -3 

Practical uses -3 

rreservatiim of milk 2^ 

Cream and butter --1 

Manufacturing of butter -3 

Cheese --"^ 

Recipes -7 

1 



CHAPTER VII. 

Eggs.... 29 

Composition 29 

Testing and preserving 30 

Method of cooking eggs 31 

Recipes 32 

CHAPTER VIII. 

Cereals, composition and kinds 35 

Cooking of cereals 38 

CHAPTER IX. 

Nuts, kinds and composition 39 

Recipes 39 

CHAPTER X. 
Condiments, spices and flavors 41 

CHAPTER XI. 

Sugars and manufacturing of sugars 44 

Recipes 45 

CHAPTER XII. 

Fruits , , 48 

Classification of fruits 48 

Recipes 49 

CHAPTER XIII. 

Canning 51 

Jellies and preserves 51 

CHAPTER XIV. 

Vegetables : Classification 57 

Time table for cooking vegetables 58 

Edible fungi 58 

Chemical composition 59 

Recipes 59 

CHAPTER XV. 

Meat 66 

Beef 6S 

Veal 79 

Eamb 84 

Pork 85 

CHAPTER XVI. 

Poultrv and game ^^ 

Selection, cleaning and preparation 88 

CHAPTER XVIT. 

Fish 93 

When to obtain fish 94 

Recipes 96 

II 



Page 
CHAPTER XVIII. 

Salads 100 

Recipes 101 

CHAPTER XIX. 

Soups without meat 106 

Reci])es 106 

CHAPTER XX. 

Sauces 108 

Thickening for sauces 108 

Recipes ..110 

CHAPTER XXI. 

Batters and doughs 115 

Recipes 116 

CHAPTER XXII. 

Bread 123 

Ceneral directions 124 

Recipes 124 

CHAPTER XXIII. 

Pies 129 

General 129 

Recipes 1 30 

CHAPTER XXIV. 

Cakes 1 36 

Recipes 136 

Icings 145 

CHAPTER XXV. 

Desserts 148 

Recipes 148 

CHAPTER XXVI 

Ice Creams 158 

General rules 158 

Recipes 1 58 

CHAPTER XXVII. 

Sandwiches 162 

Eillings 162 

CHAPTER XXVIII. 
I^aper bag cookery 163 

CHAPTER XXIX. 
Culinary dictionary 165 

III 



PREFACE. 

Food of every description is wholesome and digestible if 
prepared and cooked properly. A variety of nutritive and 
relishing dishes may be prepared from the most homely 
materials. 

There must be scrupulous neatness in keeping, handling 
and serving food. Cleanliness should be the first requisite in 
the care and preparation of the food we eat. 

The food question is a complicated one and should be 
studied carefully from the standpoint of cost and nutritive 
value of different substances. 

The function of food is to supply heat and energy and to 
keep the tissues repaired. Meals, therefore, should be so ar- 
ranged as to supply the proper element for each of these re- 
quirements. 

W^e should not be influenced by the dictates of the palate 
in the planning and preparation of meals ; because acquired 
appetite would often over-rule what common sense tells us 
is wrong. 

We are prone to believe that the high market value of 
certain foods means high nutritive value. This is not always 
true. A pound of beef from the round contains far more nutri- 
tive value than a pound of tenderloin from the same animal 
and costs but one-third the cost of the tenderloin. 

H. I). 



INTRODUCTION. 

In olden times when the housewife, carefully taught by 
her mother, helped produce most of the foodstuff, she 
could prepare it for the table. In these days of complex 
living the trained investigator must help the home to se- 
cure the best kinds of food. Dr. C. F. Langworthy, Chief 
of Nutrition Investigations, in the Department of Agri- 
culture, Washington, D. C, in the Department Year Book 
says : "To say that a family bill-of-fare must be appetizing 
and varied does not necessarily mean that it must be costly 
as well. The staple food materials, skillfully combined and 
simply but attractively prepared, are more pleasing in the 
long run than elaborate living." This is another way of say- 
ing that an efificient cook is one who can make a good meal 
out of simple materials. The writer of this book, who is head 
of the Department of Household Arts in The Principia. 
is a practical housekeeper and knows how to prepare ex- 
quisite meals in her own home at a modicum of expense. 
Her pupils in school often surprise their friends with the 
dainty results of their efforts. Hitherto her knowledge 
of this art has been passed along orally. Now, some of it has 
been set forth in this book. In the following pages Miss 
Dutaud has endeavored to give, not merely a book of 
recipes, but a brief treatise which shall be of value to the 
housewife in the discharge of her duties in the kitchen and 
dining-room. 

It is to be hoped that its pages will carry some of the 
aroma of the practice rooms where it originated, and convey 
to its readers a little of the ability and skill which have en- 
abled its author to stand in such an enviable position before 
her constituency. From my knowledge of Miss Dutaud's 
attainments and work, I cordially commend this volume to 
all wide-awake housekeepers. 

GEORGE MILLARD DAVISON 
The Princi])ia. St. Louis, Mo. 



PRACTICAL COOKERY 



CHAPTER I. 



SUGGESTIONS ON HOW TO WORK. 

1. Neatness is the first requisite. 

2. The hair should be carefully brushed and confined 
under clean, white cooking cap. 

3. Hands and finger nails should be immaculate. 

4. Long apron, preferably with sleeves. 

5. Avoid the constant tasting of foods. Each time food 
is tasted a fresh spoon should be used for that purpose. 

6. Be orderly in everything you do in the kitchen and in 
the home 

7. Be sure to keep all cooking utensils in their right 
places. 

8. Guard against hurry and confusion. 

9. Go about your work quietly and thoughtfully. 

10. Collect all materials and utensils that will be needed. 
This will save you steps. Remember that the economy of 
time is as important as the economy of money. 

11. Do not use more utensils than is necessary. Measure 
first, dry materials, then liquid and last fats. In this way one 
cup will be sufficient to measure these three ingredients. 

12. Have all materials carefully measured and placed in 
order before putting them together. Pans should be greased, 
fioured and set aside ready for use. 

13. Do not leave sugar and flour cans open, nor spice 
boxes. Close them and put them away as soon as used But- 
ter and lard should not be left out of the refrigerator longer 
than is necessary. 

14. Learn not to scatter flour over every inch of cooking 
space. Try to keep your work cleaned up as you go along. 

15. When peeling fruit or vegetables, have a receptacle in 
which to drop the peelings. It is very careless and untidy to 
allow peelings to drop in the sink or on kitchen table. The^• 
eventually have to be gathered up and disposed of. It will 
save you time and make conditions about the kitchen more 
attractive if you will abide strictly by this rule. 

16. Be systematic and cultivate cheerfulness, neatnes'^ 
and order in your kitchen, and. above all, the desire to do and 
accomplish something really worth while. 



PRACTICAL COOKERY 



DISHWASHING. 

1. Use plenty of water. Have two separate pans; one 
for washing, the other for rinsing. Use Ivory soap. It is 
better to have it in a soap shaker than to rub it on dishcloth. 

2. Wash first the glassware, then silver, delicate china, 
and last the heavier dishes. 

3. Scrape all food from dishes, and allow water to run 
over them before putting them in the dishpan. Never place 
any receptacle in the dishpan that contains the smallest par- 
ticle of food. Dishwater should always be clear. Do not al- 
low it to become greasy ; change it often. Remember that the 
dishes out of which you cook and eat should be washed with 
the greatest care. 

4. The handles of knives and forks, if of ivory, bone or 
celluloid, should not be left standing in warm water, as it will 
be apt to cause them either to split open, to discolor or loosen. 
Polish steel blades with sapolio or pulverized bristol brick. 

5. Wash the cooking utensils with the same care that you 
do the fine china. Rough handling will cause the enamel to 
split or chip off. Do not allow the cooking utensils to become 
discolored ; use sapolio or some good cleaner to remove burnt 
or discolored spots. For this purpose do not use your dish- 
cloth. Use instead a cork or a small piece of cloth that can be 
discarded afterwards. 

6. Use soft linen towels for glass and silverware, and 
linen for the other dishes. Use a good quality of cheesecloth, 
properly hemmed, for dishcloths. 

7. Keep towels and dishcloths properly washed and 
rinsed. Dishes will not be clear and shiny if linen is not 
properly kept. 

8. All dishes which have contained doughy substances 
should be washed with a small scrubbing brush and in cold 
water. When all particles of dough are removed, then they 
mav be washed in the ordinary manner Wash baking board 
with brush and cold water. 

9. Wash sink in hot. soapy water. Keep a large strainer 
in the sink in which to scrape the dishes. This will prevent 
particles of food from going down the drain, and will keep the 
sink looking neat. Once a week sinks should be flushed with 
boiling water, in which washing soda has been dissolved. 

10. The refrigerator should be looked over daily. Allow 
nothing to spoil in it. Once a week take everything out and 
wash it carefullv with good soapy water and pour through the 
drains a strong solution of hot washing soda. Do not allow 



PRACTICAL COOKERY 



any food with strong odor to be placed in the refrigerator. 
Keep the butter, if possible, in covered glass or earthenware 
dishes. Keep the milk covered and close to the ice. If the 
ice is covered with an asbestos blanket or newspaper it will 
not melt so quickly. 

11. The stove is an important item and should be kept 
clean and spotless. Most of the stoves now used in the homes 
are made in such a way that they may be kept clean with soap 
and water. The nickel plate may be kept clean and shiny 
with silver polish. The burners of gas stoves once a week 
should be boiled in a solution of washing soda. Keep the oven 
clean and free from dust. To light a top burner of a gas 
stove, turn the cork for one second, allowing the air that is in 
the pipe to escape, then turn it off ; turn on the second time 
and apply lighted match. The flame should be blue. A yel- 
low flame smokes the cooking utensils, wastes the gas and 
does not give the required amount of heat. To light the oven 
burner, open the door of the lower oven, turn on the pilot 
light cord, lighting the pilot light from the outside. Turn on 
the two oven burners. When both are burning blue, turn off 
the pilot light. The upper oven is used for keeping dishes 
and food warm. The middle oven for baking and roasting; 
the lower oven for toasting and broiling. 

TABLE SERVICE. 

There are a few definite rules which should be followed in 
all homes, from the simplest to the most sumptuous. 

Table manners are an excellent gage of the refinement of 
a family. 

The greatest ease and freedom should be manifested. 

Avoid discussing unpleasant topics ; let the conversation 
be general and to the enjoyment of all. 

Ill temper, indifference, lack of interest in conversation 
will often spoil a good meal. 

Eat whatever is placed before you and show that you are 
enjoying it. Avoid doing anything that will give offense to 
your hostess. 

Try to be cheerful ; show a spirit of thankfulness ; remem- 
ber that no matter how simple the meal is, thought and care 
were necessary in the preparation of it. 

The table and food should be pleasing to the eye, the 
decorations few and simple. An over display of silver or 
flowers is not good taste. 

1. Have the dining-room well lighted and ventilated. 



PRACTICAL COOKERY 



2. If there is a center light, have table placed directly 
under it. 

3. Table should be covered with a good silence-cloth of 
felting or any good, heavy, soft material. 

4. Have table linen spotless and well ironed, taking care 
that center crease in tablecloth comes directly in center of 
table. Then start to arrange the places, having at least twenty 
inches between each cover. 

5. Place knives and spoons at the right. The sharp edge 
oi knives should be turned toward plate; the bowls of spoons 
turned up. i orks are placed at the left, with tines turned up. 

6. Place napkin at left next to the forks. 

7. BuLter plates to the left, just coming to the point of the 
forks. 

8. Glasses are placed at the right, just coming to the point 
of knives. 

9. Place salt, pepper, vinegar, oil. jelly, etc., inside the 
line of plates. 

10. Carving set in front of host. 

11. Soup ladle in front of hostess, handle to the right, 
bowl up. 

12. Arrange the coffee or tea service neatly in front of 
hostess. 

13. Finger bowls when used should be placed on dessert 
plates with a doily underneath the bowl, and placed at the 
right of each person. Have the water in the bowls cold and 
if convenient have a very thin slice of lemon in the water. 

14. Be sure that the table is symmetrically arranged 

15. Arrange chairs at sufficient distance from tht table 
so that they will not touch the edge of the tablecloth. 

RULES FOR SERVING. 

1. The waitress should stand at the left of host or hostess, 
and when the dishes are being served at the table, she should 
take on a tray or hold in her hand each plate as it is ready to 
serve, setting it down from the right of the person with her 
left hand. 

2. In passing dishes from which one is to help oneself, 
pass always to the left, and hold the dish so low, that one can 
serve oneself with ease. 

3. It is preferable for the waitress to use a folded napkin 
in her hand instead of a tray, letting the dish rest on the nap- 
kin, holding the dish carefully, so that the thumb will not rest 
u] on the upper surface of the dish. 



PRACTICAL COOKERY 



4. Remove each course as it is finished, standing- at the 
right and removing the soiled dishes with the left hand. 

5. Do not pile one plate on top of another; remove but 
one plate at a time. 

6. First the soiled dishes should be removed ; then the 
food. Before dessert is served, crumbs should be carefully 
removed, either with crumb tray or by using a folded napkin 
and plate. 

7. Glasses should be filled from the right. Do not re- 
move them from table, nor fill them too full. 

8. Walk quietly and avoid clattering the dishes. 

ORDER OF SERVING. 

There are no set rules laid down for the way in which 
a meal should be served. So much has to be taken into con- 
sideration that it would be hard for one person to decide foi 
another. The question of time and help, and the type of 
guests present, all enter into this important question. 

There are, however, a few general rules that one may safely 
sug-gest. 

The hostess should be mistress of the situation, should be 
at ease and show no sense of worry or anxiety. If mistakes 
should happen, it is better to ignore them than to comment 
upon them. 

Be careful not to place a guest in an embarrassing posi- 
tion, remembering that while guests are at your table you are 
to do all in your power to make them feel at ease and at 
home. 

It is a good plan to serve first the guest at right of host, 
next the guest at left of hostess, interlacing in this manner 
till all are served. 

It is also proper to serve first the hostess, then the ladies 
and last the gentlemen. 

If the hostess is served first it is her duty to start eating 
first, in so doing showing which fork or spoon is to be used. 

SEATING GUESTS AT TABLE. 

The host should be the first to leave the drav/ing-room 
with the lady guest of honor, seating the lady at his right ; 
other guests follow, each lady being seated at the right 
of the gentleman whom she accompanies 

The hostess is the last to enter the dining-room, with the 
gentleman guest of honor, who sits at her left. Try to select 



PRACTICAL COOKERY 



guests who will enjoy each other. 

ORDER OF DINING-ROOM AFTER MEALS. 

1. Remove crumbs carefully from cloth. Fold cloth in 
original creases. 

2. If napkins are to be used again, see ihat they are 
neatly placed in the rings. 

3. Remove crumbs from the floor, arrange the chairs in 
their proper places. 

4. Tvv to make the dining-room one of the most cheerful 
rooms in the house. 



PRACTICAL COOKERY 



CHAPTER II. 



CHEMICAL COMPOSITION OF FOODS. 

The chemical substances of which the body is composed 
are very similiar to those of the foods which nourish it. 

From 15 to 20 elements are found. Among the most 
al)undant are, oxygen, h3'drogen, nitrogen, carbon, calcium. 
]^hosphorus and sulphur. 

The elements are so combined as to form a great variety 
of compounds. 

The five most important compounds : 

Protein. 

Carbohydrates. 

Fats and oils. 

Mineral matter. 

Water. 

PROTEIN. 

This term means the principal nitrogenous compounds. 
Protein is found in the lean of meat and gristle, white of 
egg, curd of milk and gluten of wheat, etc. 

CARBOHYDRATES. 

By this term is meant the compounds made up of carbon, 
hydrogen and oxygen. The carbohydrates are found chiefly 
in vegetable foods, in starch, different kinds of sugars and 
plant fibers (cellulose). 

FATS AND OILS. I 

Fats and oils are found chiefly in animal foods, such as 
meat, fish, butter. They are also found in large quantities in 
s(ime cereals, nuts, and in vegetable products, such as olives, 
and also in cotton seed. 

MINERAL MATTER. 

The mineral compounds are found in both the animal and 
vegetable world and contain carbon, oxygen and hydrogen. 
Some contain nitrogen, phosphorus and sulphur. 

WATER. 

Water is one of the most abundant of the five food prin- 
ciples. It forms about 60 per cent of the weight of the body. 

9 



PRACTICAL COOKERY 



Water is a great solvent. It is called the "Universal Car- 
rier." 

Good drinking water is a clear, colorless, almost tasteless, 
odorless liquid. 

In boiling, water will lose its gases. They may be re- 
placed by beating in air. 

ORGANIC AND INORGANIC FOODS. 

i Protein. 
Carbohydrates. 
Fats and oils. 

INORGANIC. I yt^^^''-, 

^ Mmeral matter. 



PRACTICAL COOKERY 



Figures compiled from Atwater: 

COMPOSITION OF FOOD MATERIALS. 



tf 



Nutrients 



u 



4) 03 






Including refuse : 

Beef, round 7.8 

Beef, sirloin 3.2 

Mutton , leg 18.1 

Pork 14.6 

Salmon, whole 35. 3 

Mackerel, whole 44.6 

Cod, dressed 29.9 

Oysters in shell 82.4 



60.9 
40.9 
50.6 
43.0 
40.6 
40.4 
58.5 
15.3 



Excluding refuse : 

Beef, round 68.2 

Beef, sirloin 42.2 

Mutton, leg 61.8 

Cod 82.6 

Oysters 87.2 

Milk 87.0 

Butter 10.5' 

Cheese 30.2 

Potatoes 78.9 

Beans 68.5 

Rice 12.4 

Corn meal 15.0 

Oatmeal 7.8 

Wheat flour 12.5 

Wheat bread 32.3 

Sugar 2.0 



31.3 

55.9 
31.3 
42.4 
24.1 
15.0 
11.6 
2.3 



31.8 
57.8 
38.2 
17.4 
12.8 
13.0 
89.5 
69.8 
21.1 
31.5 
87.6 
85.0 
92.2 
87.5 
67.7 
98.0 



18.0 
12.9 
15.0 
13.6 
14.3 
10.0 
10.6 
1.1 



20.5 

13.3 

18.3 

15.8 

6.3 

3.6 

1.0 

28.3 

2.1 

7.1 

7.4 

9.2 

14.7 

11.0 



12.3 

42.3 

15.6 

28.0 

8.8 

4.3 

0.2 

0.2 



10.1 

43.7 

19.0 

0.4 

1.6 

4.0 

85 

35.5 

0.1 

0.7 

0.4 

3.8 

7.1 

1.1 

1.7 



0.6 



4.0 

4.7 

0.5 

1.8 

17.9 

22 

79.4 

70.6 

68.4 

74.9 

56.3 

97.8 



1.2 
0.8 
0.9 
1.2 
0.9 
0.7 
3.0 
4.2 
0.1 
1.7 
0.4 
1.4 
2.0 
0.5 
0.9 
0.2 



855 

2025 

935 

1435 

635 

370 

205 

40 



805 

2090 

1140 

310 

260 

325 

3615 

2070 

375 

570 

1630 

1645 

1845 

1645 

1280 

1820 



PRACTICAL COOKERY 



CHAPTER III. 



THE MOTTO OF THE NEW YORK CITY PUBLIC 
SCHOOL KITCHENS. 

Good cookery means the knowledge of all fruits, herbs, 
balms, and spices, and of all that is healing and sweet in fields 
and groves, and savory in meats. It means carefulness, 
inventiveness, watchfulness, willingness, and readiness of 
appliance. It means the economy of your great-grandmoth- 
ers and the science of modern chemists. It means much 
tasting and no wasting. It means English thoroughness, 
French art, and Arabian hospitality. It means, in tine, that 
you are to be perfectly and always ladies (loafgivers). — 
Ruskin. 

Food is prepared and cooked for many reasons : 

1. To render mastication ea.sy. 

2. To convert certain hurtful substances into nutriti\'e 
foods. 

3. To combine the right foods in proper proportions. 

4. To make it more agreeable to the palate and pleasing 
to the eye. 

Apart from the purely aesthetic value of an agreeable meal, 
and a well spread table, there remain many solid arguments 
for the last two reasons. 

Pleasant flavors are a necessity of diet. 

No person could be nourished on tasteless foods. 

No one could live content on a monotonous diet, though 
there may be nothing wanting from the point of \iew of 
chemical analysis. 

Mastication acts mechanically in subdividing foods. 

It acts chemically by reason of the digestive power of 
saliva on starch. 

We may percei\e how iniiwssible it would be to masticate 
a mouthful of flour or of raw meat. 

We cannot ex])ect the human teeth to do all of the sub- 
dividing of the food we eat ; the action of heat in the prepara- 
tion of foods will accomplish much of the subdividing. 

In all latitudes cookery has to accommodate itself in an 
infinite \ariety of wa}'s to the ages, conditions and fortunes 
of men. 

12 



PRACTICAL COOKERY 



Food must be prepared in such a manner that the great- 
est nutrititive and aesthetic value may be derived from its 
consumption. 

TEMPERATURES USED IN COOKING. 

98 degrees — Lukewarm ; body heat. 
150 degrees — Scalding; too hot to keep fingers in. 
183 degrees — Simmering; small air bubbles appear. 
212 degrees — Boiling; large bubbles appear all over sur- 
face of water and steam escapes. 

Next to exact measuring comes care in proper combinin.g. 

1. To stir, mix by using circular motion, widening the 
circles until all is blended. Stirring is the motion ordinarily 
employed in all cookery, sometimes used in combination with 
beating. When stirring a sauce or other food which is being 
cooked on top of stove, do not stir too rapidly nor in one spot. 
In this instance the object is to keep the food from adhering 
to the bottom of the pan and also to keep the dififerent sul>- 
stances well blended. 

A rapid stirring would retard the cooking. By stirring, 
ingredients are mixed. 

2. To beat, turn ingredients over and over continually, 
bringing the under part to the surface, thus allowing the 
utensils used for beating to be constantly brought in contact 
with the bottom of the dish and throughout the mixture. 

By beating, a large amount of air is introduced. 
Beating should always be done in the same direction. 

3. To cut and fold is to introduce one ingredient into an- 
other ingredient by two motions: with a spoon, a repeated 
vertical downward motion, known as cutting; and a turning 
over and over of mixture, allowing bowl of spoon each time 
to come in contact with bottom of dish, called folding. These 
repeated motions are alternated until thorough blending is ac- 
complished. 

By cutting and folding air alread\- introduced is ])re\'ented 
from escaping. 



13 



PRACTICAL COOKERY 



CHAPTER IV. 



Principal methods of cooking: 

[From Theory and Practice of Cookery] 

1. Broiling: cooking over a glowing fire. 

2. Roasting: cooking before a glowing 

fire. 



\ 



3. Baking: cooking in an oven. 



Direct applica- 
tion of heat. 



by 



Boiling: cooking in boiling water. 
Stewing: cooking for a long time in 
water below the boiling point. 



6. Steaming : 



a. moist : cooking in 
steamer. 



b. dry : cooking in 
double boiler. 



) Application 
■- means of 
3 heated air. 
^ Heat applied 
> by means of 
3 water. 

By contact 
with steam. 

By the heat of 
steam sur- 
rounding 
vessel. 



Frying: cooking in hot fat deep enough " 
to cover the article to be cooked. 



Sauteing: cooking in a small quantity 
of hot fat. 



Heat applied 
by means of 
heated fat. 



9. 



10 
11. 



Pan-baking: 
Pan-broiling 



cooking in a frying- i 
pan or on a grid- \ 
die, with little or 
no fat. I 



Heat applied 
liy means of 
heated metal. 



Braising: a combination of stewing 
Fricasseeing: a combination of frying and 



stewine. 



Exact measuring is necessary to obtain the best results 
in cooking. 

Flour, meal, powdered sugar, soda and baking powder, 
should be sifted before mea.suring. All materials are to be 
measured level. Measure dry materials into a cup with a 
spoon, leveling the top with a knife. A cupful of liquid is all 
the cup will hold. A spoonful of liquid is all the spoon will 
hold. To measure butter, lard or any solid fat, pack solidly 
intd the cup and level off with a knife. To measure a spoon- 



PRACTICAL COOKERY 



ful or cupful of dry substance, heap material on spoon or cup, 
lift it and level with the flat surface of a caseknife. 

Half a spoonful is a spoonful divided lengthwise. Quarter 
of a spoonful is a spoonful divided into half crosswise and 
lengthwise. A speck is as much as will lie on the tip of a 
pointed knife. 

ABBREVIATIONS. 

tbsp. stands for tablespoon. oz. stands for ounce, 

tsp. stands for teaspoon. lb. stands for pound, 

c. stands for cup. spk. stands for speck. 

g. stands for gill. min. stands for minute, 

pt. stands for pint. h. stands for hour. 



qt. stands for quart. 



EQUIVALENTS. 



Measures. Weights. 

3 tsp.^1 tbsp. 2 c. liquid=l lb. 
4tbsp.=>4 c. 4 c. flour^l lb. 
2g.=l c. 2 c. solid fat=l lb. 

2 c.=l pt. 2 c. granulated sugar= lb. 

2pt.=l qt. 3 c. meal^l lb. 

4 qt.=l gal. 2 c. solid meat=l lb. 
2 tbsp. sugar=l oz. 2 tbsp. butter=l oz. 
2 tbsp. liquid=l oz. 4 tbsp. flour=l oz. 

WAYS OF PRESERVING FOODS. 

1. By Freezing: Foods that spoil easily are frozen for trans- 

portation. Example: Poultry, fish. 

2. By Refrigerating: Foods that are kept in cold storage. 

Example : Meat, milk, eggs, butter, etc. 

3. By Canning: Preserving in airtight glass jars or tins. 

sugar being often used as a help. Example : Canned 
peaches, corn, peas. 

4. By Sugaring: Fruit juices and small fruits being pre- 

served by equal amount of sugar and fruit, or fruit 
juices. Example : Jellies and jams. 

5. By Drying: The evaporation of most of the moisture. 

Example: Fruits, vegetables, meats. (Salt is often 
used.) 

6. By Salting: Flesh of animals being preserved by appli- 

cation of salt, dry or by corning or salting in brine. 



PRACTICAL COOKERY 



Example : Pork, beef, codfish. 

7. By Smoking: Foods, having been salted or cured, are 

placed in a closed room for several hours, where 
hickory wood is allowed to smolder. Example : 
Ham, bacon, beef, fish. 

8. By Pickling: Vinegar with the addition of salt, sugar and 

spices in which fruits and vegetables are allowed to 
remain. Example : Pickled pears, tomatoes. 

9. By Placing in Oil: Olive oil is best for this purpose. Ex- 

ample : Sardines, Pimentoes. 

METHOD OF COOKING ALBUMINOUS SUBSTANCES 

The greatest care should be exercised in the cooking ol 
albumin. 

Alliuminous matter is of various kinds and is found in 
animal and vegetable substances. 

Some are liquid, some are solid. 

Coagulation is one of the properties of albumin. 

Heat coagulates nearly all all)uminous substances. 

The albumin in egg and milk should be subjected to slow, 
even temperature. 

The albumin in egg, when subjected to high temperature, 
will become liard and tough. For example, a custard that has 
overcooked by too high a temperature becomes a hard, solidi- 
fied mass, allowing the watery substances to separate; but if 
subjected to low temperature it will be soft and creamy. 

The albumin in meat also hardens on exposure to heat. 

In cooking a choice, tender cut of meat, it is essential to 
subject it to intense heat in order to harden the albumin on 
the outside. This will form a hard stirface and will help to 
retain the good juice in the meat. 

Albuminous substances, if cooked at a temperature below 
boiling, will always be soft. When cooked at a temperature of 
212 degrees the albumin is hard and tough. 

The effect of heat on albuminous substances is not only to 
change the texture, but also to develop the flavor. 

The purest form of albumin is found in the white of egg. 

The albuminous substances are classified as protein foods. 

METHOD OF COOKING STARCHY FOODS. 

Starch is composed of carbon, oxygen and hydrogen. 
When heated, the two last pass off as water, leaving the car- 
bon. 



PRACTICAL COOKERY 



Starch is a fine, white powder, insoluble in cold water, but 
partially soluble in hot water. 

When boiling water is poured upon dry starch, lumps 
form immediately, because the moment the hot water touches 
the itarch it causes it to swell, forming a sticky outer surface, 
therefore preventing the rest from swelling. 

To prevent starch from forming lumps it should first be 
mixed with cold water. Then the hot liquid is added to it. 

A given amount of starch (flour or corn starch) may be 
thoroughly mixed with a given amount of sugar. Then the 
hot liquid may be poured over and stirred constantly. The 
hot liquid will cause the sugar to melt and thereby allow all 
of the starch granules to swell and become soluble. 

Whenever starch is heated to 320 degrees a new substance 
is formed, named dextrine. 

Dextrine somewhat resembles sugar, difl^ering from 
starch in that it is soluble in cold water and does not thicken 
mixtures. 

Dextrine is found in prepared breakfast foods like grape- 
nuts, in baked potatoes, crusts of bread and cakes. 

When preparing vegetables or fruit rich in starch, put 
them in cold water, because if exposed to the air they will 
become discolored, and will form a hard outer crust. 

All starchy vegetables should be cooked in boiling water, 
and not allowed to remain in the water when cooked. Water 
should be drained ofif immediately. All starchy foods should 
be thoroughly cooked. 

All cereals should be subjected to a process of long, slow 
cooking. This will greatly improve the flavor of the cereals. 



PRACTICAL COOKERY 



CHAPTER V. 



BEVERAGES. 

Tea is of Chinese origin, because cultivated first in China. 
It is now cultivated in Japan, Korea. India, and Ceylon. 

Tea leaves are obtained from a hard, subtropical shrub. 
These shrubs are grown from seeds, and are planted in rows 
usually four or five feet apart, so that the pickers may easily 
walk in between the rows. 

These shrubs are cultivated and pruned. The leaves are 
not picked till shrubs are three years old. If the shrubs are 
planted in a sheltered position, they are allowed to obtain the 
height of five feet or more. 

The leaves are usually gathered three times a year. The 
first picking in early spring is considered the choicest and 
.usually demands the highest market prices. 

The leaves when first picked have neither flavor nor odor. 

WHien the leaves are picked they are allowed to dry in the 
sun, after which they are rolled up by hand, and are then 
dried by artifical heat to develop the flavor and stimulaLing 
properties. 

Two substances are found in tea: theine and tannin. Tan- 
nin is a bitter substance used in making ink and in tanning 
leather. 

There are three kinds of tea sold on the market : green tea, 
black and scented. 

Black tea is manufactured by a process of withering 
under the influence of light, heat and air, rolling and ferment- 
ing and firing. This is done usually over a charcoal sieve. 

Scented tea is usually of jjoorer quality and is usually flav- 
ored with aromatic leaves of other plants. 

Tea should not be boiled nor allowed to stand. This tends 
to extract the tannin. 

Green tea is rolled, but is neither withered nor fermented 
but is treated to stronger firing. 

COFFEE. 

First used in Asia and Africa. 

CofTee is the seed of a berry of a tree, which attains the 
height of 16 to 18 feet if allowed to grow wild. In its cul- 
ts 



PRACTICAL COOKERY 



tivated state the tree is seldom allowed to exceed eight or nine 
feet. 

The flowers grow in clusters at the bases of the leaves and 
are pure white and of an agreeable odor. 

The fruit is a small red berry, resembling a cherry, and 
containing two seeds, known as cofifee beans. 

The fruit is gathered when ripe. Then the outer pulp and 
parchment-like covering are removed. This is done by ma- 
chinery. The berries are then exposed to the sun for several 
days to allow them to dry, and are placed in circular troughs 
and subjected to the pressure of heavy rollers. These com- 
pletely loosen the parchment covering around the coffee 
bean. 

The outer covering is fanned off. Then the berries are 
sized, and toasted. 

The smallest berry brings the highest price. 

The finest coffee is grown in Ceylon and Java. Good 
grades of coffee are also grown in the West Indies, Brazil 
and Central America. 

Coffee, like tea, contains tannin and theine, generally 
called caffeine (in coffee). 

The difference between tea and coffee is due to the dif- 
ferent aromatic oils they contain. 

One method of determining if coffee has been adulterat- 
ed is to pour cold water over a little coffee. If the coffee 
floats and colors the water very slowly, it is pure. If the water 
is quicklv discolored and some of the coffee sinks to the bot- 
tom, this is usually a sign that some adulterant is present. 
Chicory is a common adulterant. 

COCOA AND CHOCOLATE. 

The Spaniards were the first to introduce the cocoa bean 
into Europe. It was imported from Mexico where it has 
been used as a drink for many years. 

Chocolate is peculiarly considered a Spanish drink. In 
Spain it is considered almost a necessitv. 

Chocolate is essentially a tropical cultivation, requiring a 
moist atmosphere, and a temperature of 70° to 90° F. The best 
comes from Mexico, Ceylon and Samoa. 

The trees are planted from 12 to 14 feet apart, and must 
be several years old before they bear good fruit. 

The fruit of the tree, in which the seeds lie buried, is a mel- 
on-shaped pod about a foot long. The interior of these pods 
is divided into cells, each containing rows of seeds about the 
size of an almond. These seeds, which are called cocoa beans, 



PRACTICAL COOKERY 



lie surrounded by fibrous pulp. When the pods are ripe they 
are cut off the tree with knives fastened to poles. The pods 
are then left on the ground for 24 hours. Afier this the seeds 
are taken out and thrown into heaps and allowed to remain 
for about five days until they have fermented. During this 
process they become dark in color and lose much of their bitter 
taste. To further improve the taste the beans are well roasted. 
In this condition they are shipped to the dififerent manufac- 
turers. 

In the factories the beans are cracked into irregular bits, 
known as cocoa nibs. 

Chocolate is the whole bean. In the crushing process it 
forms a paste which is run into molds and cooled and sold for 
plain chocolate. It is sometimes flavored and sweetened be- 
fore being molded. The pulverized cocoa which is sold under 
the name of breakfast cocoa is made by extracting from the 
cracked bean a large proportion of its fat and grinding to 
powder the dry substance. 

The fat extracted from the cocoa bean is used in making 
perfumes, cocoa butter, etc. 

Average chemical composition of chocolate : 

50 per cent fat. 

13 per cent protein. 

7 per cent tannin-like principle. 

4 per cent starch. 

1 per cent theobromine (a substance allied to cafifeine). 

Cocoa is frequently adulterated with an inferior grade of 
starch. 

Cocoa is insoluble in cold water. But when dissolved in 
boiling liquid the starch thickens, holding all the other solids 
together. 

Chocolate when cooked with milk is an excellent food and 
verv nutritious. 



RECIPES. 
TEA. 



1 tsp. tea. 

1 c. boiling water. 

Put tea in a scalded teapot and pour the boiling water 
over it. let stand five minutes, then stir, strain and serve 
either hot or iced. (Very thin slices of lemon in which whole 
cloves have been inserted give a dainty flavor to tea.) 



PRACTICAL COOKERY 



BOILED COFFEE. 

2 tbsp. coarsely ground coffee. 

1 tbsp. cold water. 

1 c. boiling water. 

1 tbsp. cold water. 

Mix the coffee with one tablespoonful of cold water. Add 
boiling water and let boil three minutes. Remove to back of 
stove, add another tablespoonful of cold water and settle five 
minutes. A little egg or crushed eggshells may be mixed 
with the coffee to help clear it. (One tbsp of coffee is all that 
is needed to make one cup of coffee ; the extra tbsp. is usually 
added for the coffee pot.) 

CAFE AU LAIT. 

5 tbsp. coffee. 

1 c. cold water. 

2 c. cold milk (unskimmed). 

1 spk. salt. 

Mix coffee, cold water and salt together, place in a sauce 
pan and allow it to come slowly to the boiling point, then add 
cold milk, boil again, strain and serve. 

COCOA. 

3 tbsp. cocoa. 

2 tbsp. sugar. 
j4 tsp. salt. 

1 qt. boiling milk (half water may be used). 

1 tsp. vanilla. 

Mix cocoa, sugar, salt together and dissolve with a 
little of the hot liquid, then cook all together in double boiler 
for one hour or more, then add vanilla. 



CHOCOLATE. 

1 qt. milk, or half milk and half water (boiling). 

2 oz. chocolate. 
^ c. sugar. 
Spk. salt. 

1 tsp. vanilla. 

Melt chocolate in double boiler, then add hot liquid, sui^ai . 
salt. Allow it to cook about an hour, stirring it frequentl_\, 
then add vanilla. Serve plain or with whipped cream 



PRACTICAL COOKERY 



Marshmellows may be used in place of cream. 

LEMONADE. 

1 c. sugar. 

Yi c. lemon juice. 

1 pt. water. 

Make syrup by boiling sugar and water twelve minutes ; 
add fruit juice, cool, and dilute with ice-water to suit in- 
dividual tastes. Lemon syrup may be bottled and kept on 
hand to use as needed. 

ORANGEADE. 

Make syrup as for lemonade. Sweeten orange juice with 
syrup, and dilute by pouring over crushed ice. 

PINEAPPLE LEMONADE. 

1 pt. water. 
1 c. sugar. 
1 qt. ice-water. 
1 can grated pineapple. 
Juice 3 lemons. 

Make syrup by boiling water and sugar 10 minutes ; add 
pineapple and lemon juice, cool, strain, and add ice-water. 

UNFERMENTED GRAPE JUICE. 

10 lb grapes. 
3 lb sugar. 

1 c. water. 

Put grapes and water in granite stew-pan. Heat until 
stones and pulp separate; then strain through jelley-bag, add 
sugar, heat to boiling point, and bottle. This will make one 
gallon and will keep indefinitely if kept in a dark place. 

FRUIT PUNCH. 

Mrs. F. L. Morey. 
Yi box oranges (Russets are the best for this purpose). 
3 doz. lemons. 

2 cans Hawaiian pineapple (25 cent size). 

1 bottle Maraschino cherries (75-cent size). Add sugar to 
taste, and large cakes of ice as needed. This will serve a 
large number of people. 



PRACTICAL COOKERY 



CHAPTER VI. 



MILK. 

Milk is called a "perfect food" because it contains all the 
elements necessary for the nourishment of the body. 

SOURCES. 

Cows, goats, asses, camels. 

CHEMICAL COMPOSITION (Average). 

Water — 87 per cent. 

Carbohydrate — 5 per cent. 

Fat — 3 to 4 per cent. 

Mineral matter- — 1 per cent. 

Protein — 3 per cent. 

The protein in milk is in form of casein and albumin. 

Carbohydrate as lactose (milk sugar). 

Fat, as a fine emulsion. 

Mineral matter — as calcium, magnesium, iron. etc. 

Lactic acid is found in sour milk. 

Milk is an economical food, because of its high food value. 
It lends itself to a variety of combinations, and is acceptable 
as food without cooking. 

PRACTICAL USES OF MILK. 

Combinations in desserts. 

Soups. 

Sauces. 

Cheese. 

Beverages. 

Too much emphasis cannot be laid on the care of milk 
in both dairy and home. The vessels for containing milk 
should be properly cleansed and sterilized. 

The vessels should have a smooth, glazed surface, free 
from cracks, and should be shallow to allow the cream to rise. 

The vessels should be covered, kept in a cool place and 
away from the influence of strong odors. 

PRESERVATION OF MILK. 

1. Scalding — (bringing to boiling point). 

2. Pasturization — (remaining at temperature of 140 to 
160 degrees for about 20 minutes). 

3. Sterilization — (remaining at temperature of 180 to 
200 degrees for several hours). 



PRACTICAL COOKERY 



ADULTERANTS IN MILK. 

1. Water (to increase in bulk). 

2. Chalk (to use in watered milk). 

3. Gelatine (to give it rich, thick appearance). 

ARTIFICAL PRESERVATIVES IN MILK. 

1. Formaldehyde. 

2. Borax. 

3. Bicarbonate of Soda. 

MARKET PRODUCTS OF MILK. 

1. Cream. 

2. Butter. 

3. Buttermilk. 

4. Cheese. 

CREAM AND BUTTER. 

After milk has stood for several hours, cream rises. The 
thickness of the cream depends upon the breed of cow. Good 
milk should yield one-fifth of its total in cream. 

Gravity cream is that which is allowed to rise to toj) of 
pan. It takes at least four hours for the cream to rise. If the 
pan is kept covered the cream will be softer; if left uncov- 
ered, a sort of crust will form on top of cream. 

Separated cream is that which is put through the separator 
and separated at once from the milk. 

In double cream we find 33 per cent butter fat. 
In coffee cream 18 per cent butter fat is found. 

Fat is found in milk in the form of tiny globules, about 
l/1500di of an inch in diameter. These small globules, being 
lighter than the rest of the milk, rise to the top as cream. 
The fat globules in cream have a little albuminous covering. 
The turning back and forth of the cream causes the rupture 
of the covering, allowing the fat to run together, forming 
butter. 

Butter is salted to prevent it from spoiling. The salt 
added is about two ounces to one pound. 

Butter is sold on market as dairy and creamery butter. 

Dairy butter is the farmer's product, sometimes good, not 
always reliable, often bought in large bulk (in tubs) and taken 
to some large manufacturing center and made into renovated 
butter and sold as creamery butter. 

Creamery butter is manufactured the year round in a uni- 
form way. 

Good butter contains about 87 per cent fat. is firm, not 
crumbly, will foam when heated, and will yield little water 
when pressed. 

24 



PRACTICAL COOKERY 



MANUFACTURED BUTTER. 

Oleomargarin. — The process of making oleomargarin was 
discovered during the Franco^Prussian war, and was manu- 
factured to supply the French army with butter. It is made 
from animal fats by chemical process. 

When oleomargarin is churned in a liquid form with a 
given amount of milk, a butter is formed which mixes with 
it. The buttermilk imparts a flavor of fresh butter to the 
mass, making a perfect imitation which can hardly be dis- 
tinguished from real butter. 

Butterine is made by churning oleomargarin with milk 
and water, or by churning milk with butter and yolks of eggs. 
This combination is converted into butterine. 

DIRECTIONS FOR MAKING BUTTER. 

Beat thick cream with Dover egg beater or small churn, 
until it separates into buttermilk and butter. Remove butter 
and wash it under a stream of cold water, to remove all the 
buttermilk. When buttermilk is all washed out, work but- 
ter with a wooden spoon to press out all the water, then add 
salt, about two ounces to one pound of butter. Pack in a cov- 
ered dish and keep in cool place. 

MAITRE D'HOTEL BUTTER. 

1 c. butter. 
Juice of 1 lemon. 
1 tbsp. of minced parsley. 

Cream butter till soft and waxy; add lemon juice, drop at 
a time, then parsley. Serve with fish or vegetables. 

CHEESE. 

When milk becomes sour, it separates into a thick, white 
substance, and a light yellowish liquid. This is called the 
curd and the whey. 

Cheese is made from the curd of milk. It is a concentrat- 
ed food and contains a great deal of nourishment in small 
bulk. It has a high food value on account of the large ])er 
cent of fat it contains. Being deficient in starch, it should al- 
ways be combined with starchy foods. As it is rich in pro- 
tein, it may well be used as a meat substitute. 

Each country and state has its own law governing the 
manufacturing of cheese. The state of New York and Wis- 
consin manufacture the best American cheese. The state 
laws demand that the cheese shall be manufactured from 
unskimmed milk. 

Cheese manufactured from good, clean milk is smooth and 
has small, even holes through it. Cheese that is manufac- 

25 



PRACTICAL COOKERY 



tured from milk which was not perfectly clean is dry and 
has cracks all through it. 

Cheese that becomes very oily on the outside has been 
filled with some oily substance when in process of manu- 
facture. 

Cheese should be kept in oiled paper in a dry. cool place, 
but should not be kept altogether airtight. 

Cheese may be classified under three heads: 

1. Cream cheese. 

2. Whole milk cheese. 

3. Skimmed and sour milk cheese. 

NEUFCHATEL. 

Cream thickened by heat, then pressed in small molds. 
Considered a great delicacy ; made in Normandy. 

BRIE. 

A soft, salted, white cream cheese, made in the district of 
Brie, France. 

CAMEMBERT. 

A rich, sweet cream cheese of light, yellowish color. Made 
in Xormandy. 

CREAM CHEDDAR. 

Extra portion of cream being added to the whole milk, 
making a very rich, soft, yellowish cheese. Made in Eng- 
land. 

CHEDDAR. 

Made from unskimmed milk. Rich, yellowish cheese. 
Fine quality made in New York and Wisconsin ; also Eng- 
land. 

EDAM. 

A hard, yellowish cheese. Made in Holland. 

GRUYERE. 

Made by pressing the curd in large, shallow, cylindrical 
molds, and while being molded is heavily salted for about a 
month. It is a pale, yellowish color, and contains large air 
holes. Made in both Switzerland and France. 

ROQUEFORT. 

A French cheese made from the milk of ewes. When 
cheese is molded and dry it is placed in deep caverns in the 
limestone rocks of Roquefort, at temperature of about 40 
degrees. The cheese is salted and allowed to remain in the 
caverns about 40 days, until ripe for use. 

26 



PRACTICAL COOKERY 



PARMESON. 

A hard, dry, grainy and highly flavored cheese, colored with 
saffron. It is made in Italy. 

BRICK CHEESE. 

Semi-hard comes in form of bricks. The best quality 
should be moist and contain uniform small holes all through 
it. 

Small pieces of cheese may be kept and allowed to dry. 
Then thev may be ground in meat grinder, or rolled fine with 
rolling pin. They may be kept in a glass jar for an indefinite 
time, and can be used for flavoring sauces, for top of scallop- 
ed dishes, or the making of sandwiches and may also be 
sprinkled into soups. 

TOASTED CRACKERS AND CHEESE. 

Prepare grated cheese seasoned with salt and pepper. 
Split the crackers and cover each half cracker with the mix- 
ture and brown them in the oven. When the cheese has 
melted, the crackers are ready to serve. 

COTTAGE CHEESE. 

Heat sour milk slowly until the whey rises to the top. 
Pour it off, and put the curd into a bag. letting it drip for six 
hours without squeezing. Put it into a bowl and break it fine 
with a wooden spoon. Season with salt and mix into a paste 
with a little cream or butter. Mould into balls and keep in a 
cold place. It is best when fresh. 

CHEESE STRAWS. 

1 c. grated cheese. 

1 c. fresh bread crumbs. 

Yz c. flour. 

1 tbsp. butter. 
Yx tbsp. salt. 

yi tbsp. white pepper. 
Cayenne. 

2 tbsp. milk. 

Cream butter, add flour, crumbs and grated cheese, then 
add seasoning, mix thoroughly, then add milk. Roll ^-inch 
thick, cut ^-inch wide and six inches long. Bake until brown 
in a moderately hot oven. 

WELSH RAREBIT. 

2 c. grated cheddar cheese. 
Yz c. cream or milk. 
1 tsp. mustard. 
Y2 tsp. salt. 

27 



PRACTICAL COOKERY 



y2 tsp. Worcestershire sauce. 
Spk. cayenne pepper or paprika. 

2 eggs. 

1 tbsp. butter. 

Beat the eggs slightly, add the mustard, salt and cayenne. 
Put the milk and cheese in the upper part of the double boil- 
er, and when the cheese is melted, add the butter. Pour th»i 
mixture on the eggs, return to the double boiler, stir con- 
stantly until thick and smooth, then add Worcestershire 
sauce and serve on toast. 

CHEESE SOUFFLE. 

3 tbsp. butter. 
3 tbsp. flour. 
% c. milk. 

1 c. grated cheese. 

3 eggs. 

Yz tsp. salt. 

Spk. pepper. 

Put the butter in a saucepan. When hot add the flour and 
stir until smooth ; add the milk and seasoning. Cook two 
minutes. Remove to the back of the stove and add the well- 
beaten yolks and the cheese. Set away to cool. When cold 
add the whites of eggs, beaten until stiff. Turn into a but- 
tered dish and bake in a moderate oven about one-half hour. 
Serve the moment it comes from the oven. 



28 



PRACTICAL COOKERY 



CHAPTER VII. 



EGGS. 

Kmerson said, "There is a best way of doing everything, 
even if it is to boil an egg." Mrs. Hill says, "with eggs, the 
best way is not 'to boil' at all, but to cook at a temperature 
below the boiling point of water, or be exact, not above 180° 
F." 

Eggs, like milk, are called a perfect food, because they con- 
tain various food principles in their right proportion, for the 
nourishment of the body. 

As we have stated before, the white of egg is considered 
the purest form of albumin. We have also mentioned that 
coagulation is one of the properties of albumin. The cook- 
ing of eggs will give ample illustration of how albumin coagu- 
lates under dififerent temperatures. 

COMPOSITION OF EGG. 

Water, 87.7. 

Protein, 12.6. 

Fat. .25. 

Mineral matter, .59. 

It is easy to see by this table that eggs are deficient in 
carbohydrates, so should be combined with carbohydrate 
food"^ to make them an ideal food. 

Egg consists of shell, membrane, white and yolk. 

The membrane is a thin, transparent skin lying between 
the shell and white. 

The yolk is heM in place by thin threads of albumin. 
CONTENTS OF WHITE. 

Water. 

Albumin. 

The mineral contents of the white are in form of sulphur. 
CONTENTS OF YOLK. 

Protein. 

Water. 

Fat. 

Albumin. 

The mineral contents are phosphorus, calcium, iron. (It 
is the iron in egg that gives it its good yellow color.) 

Shell consists chieflv of carbonate of lime. 

The amount of water varies with the age of the egg. 



PRACTICAL COOKERY 



Egg-s are an economic food. Because rich in protein and 
fat they may be used as a meat substitute They are capable 
of a variety of combinations, and are easily prepared. They 
are used as a leavening and thickening agent, also as a gar- 
nish. 

TESTING OF EGGS. 

1. Fresh eggs have a thick, rough shell and feel heavy. 

2. Hold egg between your eye and the light. If clear it 
is fresh. 

3. Drop egg in cold w^ater. If it sinks it is fresh. 

4. If the contents of an egg rattle when shaken it is stale. 

PRESERVATION OF EGGS. 

1. Keep eggs in a cool, dry place. The shell of eggs is 
somewhat porous and for that reason should be kept away 
from strong odors. 

2. They may be preserved for an indefinite time by pack- 
ing them, small end down, in lime, sand, sawdust, in salt, by 
coating them with fat or by immersing them in lime water. 
The main object in the preservation is to keep the air out. 

HOW TO BREAK EGGS. 

Eggs should be washed before they are broken open Hold 
eggs in left hand and crack the shell by striking it sharply in 
center with a knife or against side of dish. Then placing 
thumbs together at the crack slowly break the shells apart. 

To separate the yolk from the white, hold the egg upright 
while breaking it in order that the yolk may remain in half of 
the shell. In this way the white will run out of part of the 
shell. Then slip the yolk from one part of the shell to the 
other till all of the white is freed from the yolk. If a little of 
the yolk should accidently fall into the white it may be re- 
moved by using a piece of the shell or by using a small damp 
piece of clean linen. The yolk will stick to the dam]) linen. 

In breaking more than one egg. break each singly into a 
cup. This will insure you against serious mishai) should 
some of the eggs not be perfectly fresh or should you acciden- 
tally break one of the yolks. 

BEATING EGGS. 

The beating of allnimin causes it to e.\])aiul until it be- 
comes light and full of fine air bubbles, also developing the 
flavor a little. 

Whites are beaten stiff when they are thick and can be 
cut with a knife, and are flaky and dry. There is, however. 
danger at times of beating the whites too much till all the life 



PRACTICAL COOKERY 



is beaten out of them. This is true in the making of cakes and 
souffles. A speck of salt added to the white of egg will cause 
it to beat up faster. 

The yolks of eggs should be beaten in a bowl with Dover 
egg beater, till they are thick and light colored. 

In case of cracked shells, to prevent boiling out, pierce the 
large end several times. 

EFFECTS OF HEAT ON ALBUMIN. 
RAW ALBUMIN. 

Clear, sticky, a pale straw colored liquid. 

HEATED TO 134° F. 
Fine threads of semi-solid white substance appear in 
liquid. 

HEATED TO 160° F. 
Tender, white jelly is formed. 

HEATED TO 212° F. 
Tough, white jelly. 

HEATED TO 300° F. 
Hard, horny substance. 

Eggs that are to be used as a garnish should be put into 
boiling water and allowed to boil steadily for half a'l hour. 
They should then be placed in ice water until perfectly chilled, 
when the shells may be removed. It will then be found that 
in cutting them into slices the white will not break nor the 
yolk crumble. 

SOFT-COOKED EGGS. 

For two eggs allow one pint of water ; for each additional 
Ggg, an extra cupful. Put the water in a saucepan, let it 
come to the boiling point, place the eggs in the water with a 
spoon, and cover the saucepan. Remove at once from the 
fire, and let stand, covered, about ten minutes, according to 
the size of eggs. 

HARD-BOILED EGGS. 

Cook in the same manner as soft-cooked eggs, placing 
saucepan on back of stove, where the water will keep hot. but 
not boil for 30 minutes. 

When eggs are hard boiled they should be placed in cold 
water for a few minutes, then the shells should be cracked 
open to allow the liberation of the sulphur. 

POACHED EGGS. 

Prepare a slice of buttered toast for each egg, and keep it 
hot. Have ready a shallow pan containing enough boiling, 



PRACTICAL COOKERY 



salted water to cover the eggs, allowing 1 teaspoon salt for 
one pint of water and ^ tsp. vinegar. Break egg into saucer, 
and slip it carefully into the water. Cook until the white is 
firm, and a film forms over the top of yolk. Pour water over 
the yolk with a spoon, if necessary. Remove eggs from water 
with skimmer, drain, trim off rough edges, and p. ace each egg 
on a slice of toast. Add salt, pepper and butter to taste. 
Aiuifin-rings or egg-poachers are often used to keep eggs ni 
shape. 

POACHED EGGS IN CREAM. 

For each egg, allow y^ c. cream, j^^ tsp. buiter. Melt but- 
ter in shallow pan, then add cream. When cream is hot slij) 
the egg carefully into it, cook very slowly, until yolk is firm, 
then salt and pepper to taste. Cover top with chopped parsley 
or grated cheese. Serve on toast. 

This makes a very rich dish ; it may be served for lunch or 
supper, as a meat substitute. 

SCRAMBLED EGGS. 

5 eggs. 

j4 cup milk. 

^ tsp. salt. 

^ tsp. pepj^er. 

2 tbsp. butter. 

Beat eggs slightly, add salt, pepper and milk. Put the 
butter into a hot, smooth omelet pan ; when melted, j^our in 
the mixture. Cook until of a creamy consistency, stirring 
from the bottom of the pan as it thickens. Serve on slices of 
hot buttered toast. 

OMELET. 

1 tbsp. butter. 

1 tbsp. flour. 

% c. milk. 

y2 tsp. salt. 
Vs tsp. pepper. 

1 tsp. parsley. 

4 eggs, or 3 large ones. 

Melt butter, then add flour, when smooth add milk and 
stir till thick Remove from fire, add salt, pepper and parsley 
and the yolks of eggs, slightly beaten. Allow this mixture to 
become perfectly cold, then beat the whites until stifle and fold 
in the mixture. 

Put 2 tbsp. of butter or bacon fat in an omelet pan ; when 
melted pour in the mixture ; as it cooks prick with a iork to 
let the uncooked part run underneath. Place in a very hot 

32 



PRACTICAL COOKERY 



oven for a few minutes to cook the top. Make an opening in 
top of omelet with a knife and if knife comes out without 
bemg coated the omelet is cooked. Fold in center and serve 
on a hot platter. 

Spanish omelet is made in same manner by adding to the 
sauce a little grated onion, one chopped green pepper or two 
chopped pimentoes. When the omelet is cooked, before it 
is folded, cover with a layer of thinly sliced tomatoes which 
have been peeled and warmed through in the oven. The 
omelet is then folded and served. Instead of the tomatoes 
a cup of chopped chicken, veal or ham may be substituted. 

Jelly omelet is made by the same method as plain omelet, 
omitting parsley ; when omelet is cooked, before folding, 
spre?d o- ?r with jelly or jam, then fold. 

One is sure of perfect success in making omelets by this 
formula. ' 

STUFFED EGGS. 

6 eggs. 

1 tsp. butter. 

I/4 isp. mustard. 

y% tsp. pepper. 

J/2 tsp. salt. 

A few drops of vinegar or 1 tbsp salad dressing. 

Cook 6 eggs 30 minutes. Remove the shell and cut length- 
wise. Remove ihe yolks, mash the yolks; add butter, salt, 
pepper and mustard. When smooth, add a few drops of 
vinegar. Fill the whites with the mixture. Smooth the top. 
Arra-ge ea::b half on a bed of fine parsley or lettuce. If 
liked, add half the quantity of potted or deviled ham or 
tongue. 

CUP CUSTARD. 

1 qt scalded milk. 

5 eggs. 

^ c. .sugar. 

y^ tsp. salt. 

Spk. nutmeg 

Mix eggs slightly and stir in the sugar and salt, then 
slowly the hot milk. When sugar has dissolved, pour into 
cups (about six) and grate a little nutmeg over each custard. 
Set the cups in a i^an of hot wat-r. p'hI bake in a moderate 
oven till a pointed knife inserted in custard comes out clean. 
Do not let the water in the pan boil. Serve plain or with cara- 
mel sauce. 



PRACTICAL COOKERY 



EGG CUTLETS. (May be used as meat substitute.) 

1 tbsp. butter. 

1 tbsp. flour. 

Yi. c. milk. 

1 spk. grated onion. 

^ tsp. chopped parsley. 

1 tsp. salt. 

y% tsp. pepper and a little paprika. 

5 eggs (hard boiled). 

Melt butter; add flour, then milk and cook till thick, stir- 
ring constantly ; then add seasoning, onion and parsley ; then 
the eggs chopped rather fine. Mix well together and spread 
on a plate to cool. When cool, form in shape of cutlets, roll 
in fine bread crumbs, then in beaten ^^%. and lastly in bread 
crumbs. Fry in deep fat till golden brown, drain on l)rown 
paper and serve with Hollandaise sauce. 

OMELET. 

Mrs. C. H. Howard. 
^ pt. warm milk. 

Yz c. flour (which has been moistened in a little cold 
milk). 

6 eggs. 

Salt and pepper to taste. 

Add the warm milk to the moistened flour, pour into 
double boiler, add the salt and pepper. When well scalded 
add the beaten yolks of the eggs. Add next the whites beaten 
to a froth. Pour into a well-buttered baking dish and bake in 
moderate oven for 20 minutes. Serve immediately. 



34 



PRACTICAL COOKERY 



CHAPTER VIII. 



CEREALS. 

Cereals are grains of grasses, the seeds of which are used 
for food. 

Those that are most commonly used are wheat, oats, corn, 
rye, barley, rice, buckwheat. 

From these are prepared the different breakfast foods and 
flours. 

Wheat is perhaps the most important of these grasses. It 
was cultivated in Egypt and China, long before the Christian 
era. It is frequently mentioned in the Bible. The prehistoric 
Lake-dwellers of Switzerland depended upon its cultivation 
for their daily food. 

The countries which produce the largest amount of wheat 
are. United States, Canada, Russia, India, Australia, Egypt 
and Turkey. There are several varieties being cultivated in 
these different countries. 

The grain of wheat is highly nutritious, due to its large 
per cent of starch. 

COMPOSITION OF WHEAT (Average). 

Carbohydrates, 67 per cent. 

Protein, 13. (In form of Albuminoids.) 

Mineral matter, small amount. 

Water, 14 per cent. 

The nitrogenous part of the flour of wheat is an elastic sub- 
stance known as gluten. This substance is absolutely essen- 
tial in the making of light bread. 

Wheat flour, mixed with some water, yields a yellowish, 
elastic, sticky substance, which resembles glue. This is due 
to the gluten in wheat. If the mixture of water and flour, 
after being moistened, is heated it will expand to more than 
double its bulk. 

KINDS OF WHEAT. 

Winter wheat and spring wheat. 

Winter wheat or soft wheat is sown in the fall. On ac- 
count of its exposure during the winter months to the cold 
and dampness, much of the gluten has been destroyed. There- 
fore, the wheat yields a flour when milled that is soft and 
starchy. This grade of flour is used in the home mostly for 
pastry and cakes. 

The spring or hard wheat is sown in spring, grows quickly 

35 



PRACTICAL COOKERY 



and yields a flour when milled that is rich in gluten. This 
flour is excellent for bread making. It is grown mostly in 
northern states. 

Spring wheat is known by its greater capacity for absorb- 
ing water, its gritty feeling and by caking slightly when 
squeezed in the hand. 

Each grain of wheat is composed of four separate layers: 
first — the outside covering is hard and is called bran. The 
second layer contains the gluten. The third layer contains 
the fat and germ, and the center contains the starch. 

In the manufacture of flour the wheat is first cleaned, then 
rolled, then bolted and packed. 

The millers manufacture diflferent grades of flour. 

High grade patent flour is the whitest and purest and 
commands the highest price. It is poor economy to buy a 
low grade of flour, as it is liable to contain flour-dust, shorts, ' 
and other by-products, which are neither wholesome nor nu- 
tritious. 

In the milling of wheat every part of the grain is utilized 
and sold. The outer covering, known as screening and bran, 
is sold for cattle feed. The germ is made into breakfast food. 

Graham flour is made from unbolted flour, and contains 
some of the bran as well as the finer parts of the flour. 

Entire wheat, or whole wheat, is manufactured by grind- 
ing together all parts of the kernel except the bran and the 
germ 

Macaroni, spaghetti, vermicelli, are Italian pastes made 
from the glutinous flour, or spring wheat. 

OATS. 

The cultivation of oats is as old as the cultivation of 
wheat. 

Oats are grown chiefly as food for beasts, and form an 
important human food, especially in Scotland. 

Dr. Johnson, in his dictionary, defines oats as "a grain 
which in England is given to horses, but which in Scotland 
supports the people." 

Oatmeal is very nutritious, but on account of its lack of 
gluten, is unsuitable for bread making. It is manufactured 
into breakfast foods. 

Most of the American breakfast foods have been partially 
steam cooked in the process of manufacture. This somewhat 
simplifies the cooking of them in the home. However, it is 
well to cook them twice as long as the directions call for. A 
long, slow cooking will improve the flavor. 



PRACTICAL COOKERY 



CORN. 

Indian corn, commonly called maize, is a native of America 
and Central Mexico. The early explorers found the Indians 
using it as a staple food. The prehistoric cliff dwellers of 
Colorado also cultivated it. 

Corn is cultivated very little in Europe. The climatic 
conditions there are unfavorable for its grov^th. There is, 
however, a very line grade of corn which is grown along cer- 
tain portions of the Mediterranean. The Italians use the corn 
meal in the preparation of many of their dishes and cakes. 

Certain grades of corn are grown chiefly as food for beasts. 
The finer grades form an important human food. 

Corn, like oats, is also deficient in gluten, so cannot be 
used in making lightbread. It is, however, five times richer 
in fat than wheat, and for this reason it deteriorates very 
quickly and should only be bought in small quantities. 

If in the process of milling corn it has not been well cured, 
either in the ear or the meal, it deteriorates in flavor and loses 
much of its sweetness. This is the reason why corn is not 
exported to any great extent into Europe. 

RYE. 

In appearance the rye plant resembles both wheat and 
I)arley. It is grown extensively in Russia and Germany. 

It contains sufficient amount of gluten to make lightbread. 

It is used very little in this country except in the distilling 
of liquors. 

BARLEY. 

The origin of barley is unknown. It is mentioned by 
Pliny as "the first grain to have been used for the nourish- 
ment of man." Long before the Christian era the grain was 
cultivated by the Egyptians. 

Barley, unlike other grains, is cultivated in both warm and 
cold climates. 

Barley is rich in starch but deficient in gluten, and so is 
not adaptable for bread making. 

In this countrv we use the pearl barley, which is the whole 
grain decorticated and polished. In European countries it is 
used both as coarse and fine meal. 

BUCKWHEAT. 

Buckwheat is cultivated extensivel}'' in America and Rus- 
sia. The flour is deficient in gluten and does not compare 
with anv of the other cereals in point of nutrition. It is used 
particularly in the making of small cakes. In Russia the seeds 
are often used by simply removing the hull or outer coating, 

37 



PRACTICAL COOKERY 



then cooked whole in butter or oil. This method is used 
mostly by the peasant element. 

RICE. 

Rice, the origin of which is unknown, has been cultivated 
for years in India, China, and the Malayan Islands. 

Rice contains 75 per cent of starchy subi^lance. but is com- 
pletely deficient in albuminoids. 

In its appearance the rice grain resembles barley. 

The cultivation of rice in America dates back to the year 
1700. It is claimed that by mere chance it was planted in 
South Carolina where now the finest quality of rice is grown. 

The unpolished rice used by the Chinese and Japanese is 
far more nutritious than the polished rice used in this coun- 
try. Parafftn and glucose are used in the polishing of rice. 
These substances are hard to remove in cooking. 

COOKING OF CEREALS. 

Most cereals should be cooked by steam, and for this pur- 
pose a double boiler is used ; the upper one holding the food, 
fits tightly halfway down into the lower one, which contains 
the boiling water. 

Rice may be cooked in a steamer, which is a covered per- 
forated pan. This pan is placed over boiling water, the rice 
being kept out of the water, but in direct contact with the 
steam. 

In cooking flaky breakfast food it is well not to stir it too 
often, as it will spoil its flaky appearance. 

TABLE FOR COOKING CEREALS. 

Kind. Quantity. Water. Time. 

Rolled Avena 1 cup 2 cups 1 hour 

Rice (steamed) 1 cup 2^ to 4 cups 1 hour 

Cornmeal 1 cup 3^ cups 2 hours 

Oatmeal (coarse) 1 cup 4 cups 3 hours 

Hominy (fine) 1 cup 4 cups 1 hour 

W^heatena, etc 1 cup 3)4 cups 30 min. 

Ralston _ 1 cup 3 i>2cups 30 min. 



PRACTICAL COOKERY 



CHAPTER IX. 



NUTS. 

Nuts are the fruit of certain trees and shrubs, which have 
the seed enclosed in a bony, woody covering, not opening 
when ripe. They have been used as food for centuries by the 
Greeks, by peasa'nts of the south of France and Mediterranean 
Islands. They are now used extensively in vegetarian diet 
as a substitute for meat, owing to the nourishment they con- 
tam in a highly concentrated form. 

Nuts are rich in oils and protein, but deficient in carbo- 
hydrates and contain very little water. They are considered 
an economical food, and may be used in a number of ways 
without being cooked. They are capable of many combina- 
tions with other foods, but, being deficient in starch, should 
always be combined with starchy food, when prepared as a 
meat substitute 

Nuts should be regarded as a staple food, and in this 
present day, when meat is so high, can suitably be used at 
leas^ once a week for dinner in plac ' of meat. 

Nuts, being rich in protein, should not be eaten as a 
dessert after a heartv meal. They may be combined in a salad 
and served with a dinner that is deficient in protein. 

Nuts Rich in Oil — Pecan, Brazil, butternut, filbert, hick- 
ory, black walnut. 

Rich in Nitrogen — Peanut, butternut, almond, pistachio, 
pecan, chestnut. 

Rich in Starch — Chestnut, pecan. 

NUT CROQUETTES. 

2 tbsp. butter. 

2 tbsp. flour. . 

•}4 c. milk. 

34 c. grated cheese. 

1 c. chopped pecans. 

\y2 c. cooked rice or cooked macaroni. 

J4 tsp. mustard. 

% tsp pepper. 

Spk. grated onion. 

Melt butter, add flour, when well blended add milk ; cook 
till thick and add seasoning, grated cheese, nuts and rice. If 
macaroni is used it should be chopped very fine. When well 
mixed together spread on a plate to cool for several hours. 



PRACTICAL COOKERY 



Then shape in form of croquettes, roll in fine bread crumbs, 
then in beaten egg and last in bread crumbs ; fry in deep fat, 
drain on brown paper and serve with tomato sauce. 
NUT CUTLETS. 

2 tbsp. butter. 

2 tbsp. flour. 

1 c. milk. 

1 tsp. salt. 

ys tsp. pepper. 

1 tsp. chopped parsley. 

S])k. grated onion. 

1 ^gg- 

1 c. chopped pecans. 

2 c. bread crumbs (from center of loaf). 

Melt butter, add flour when smooth, add milk and cook 
till thick, then add seasoning; remove from fire and add egg, 
which has been slightly beaten, then the nuts and bread 
crumbs ; return to the fire and cook for few seconds, till well 
mixed together, then spread on a plate to cool for several 
hours. Shape in form of cutlets, roll in fine bread crumbs and 
in beaten egg, lastly in fine bread crumbs ; fry in deep fat 
and drain on brown paper. A piece of macaroni may be 
inserted in small end of cutlet ; serve on a bed of parsley with 
tartar sauce. 

NUT LOAF. 

2 tbsp. butter. 

2 tbsp. flour. 

1 c. milk. 

1 tsp. salt. 

% tsp. pepper. 

yz tsp. Worcestershire sauce. 

Skp. paprika. 

}/i tsp. poultry seasoning, 

1 onion, chopped fine. 
j4 c. celery. 

2 c. cooked rice. 

1 c. soft bread crumbs. 

\y2 c. chopped nuts. 

1 tbsp. lemon juice. 

Melt butter, add flour, when smooth add milk ; cook till 
thick, add seasoning, then the rest of the ingredients, last 
the lemon juice. Mix all well together, shajie in a loaf, bake 
slowly one hour, basting often with melted butter. Serve 
with tomato sauce. 



PRACTICAL COOKERY 



CHAPTER X. 



CONDIMENTS, SPICES, AND FLAVORS. 

Condiments, spices, and flavors have no food value, but 
when used in small quantity they serve to improve the focd, 
making it more palatable by their flavor and aroma. 

Condiments are the substances which are usually eaten 
with meat, and give relish. Condiments are often combined 
with salt. 

Salt may be considered as an indispensable article of food. 
It is an article of great historical importance. It is mentioned 
several times in the Bible. The poet Homer calls it "divine." 
It was at one time used as a measure of value. Salt is used 
probably more as a condiment than as a preservative, for it 
is used in the preparation of nearly all foods. Salt is used 
extensively in the manufacturing of chemicals. It is obtained 
from evaporation of water of the ocean and of interior of sa- 
line lakes and by the evaporation of the water rising naturally 
in saline springs. It is also obtained by mining the solid ma- 
terial, or rock salt. 

The principal salt producing states in this country are New 
York. Michigan, Utah, West Virginia, Pennsylvania, and 
Texas. 

Spices are aromatic vegetable condiments used for season- 
ing foods and are added chiefly to foods which contain sugar. 

Cloves are the unexpanded flowers of an evergreen tree 
found in the East Indies and West Indies. Owing to their 
peculiar shape they are called nails by both French and 
Chinese. Good cloves are dark in color, rich in oil, and very 
aromatic. 

Cinnamon is the mner bark of a tree allied to the laurel, 
and is cultivated in India, China, Ceylon, and the Penang 
Islands. 

Allspice is so called because the aroma resembles that of 
cloves, cinnamon, and nutmeg. The alls])ice is the berrv of 
the cassia tree, which is extensively cultivated in Jamaica. 

Nutmeg is the kernel of the fruit of an evergreen tree, 
native of the East Indian Islands. There are several varieties 
on the market. The round, small nutmeg is considered the 
best. 

From inferior nutmegs is extracted an oil which is sold as 
"oil of mace." 

It is claimed that more nutmegs are consumed in America 



PRACTICAL COOKERY 



than in all Europe. 

Mace is the thin covering of the nutmeg. 

Pepper plant is a vine which grows wild in China and in 
the East and West Indies. Only the berries of the vine are 
used. Those used for white pepper are decorticated before 
grinding. This makes a mild pepper. The black pepper is 
ground with the hull left on the berry. This gives it a very 
pungent flavor. 

Dill is a small herb native to Spain. The small seeds are 
used whole, but oil is also extracted from them for flavoring. 

Celery is a vegetable grown in Europe and America. It 
is a great relish and very economical, since every particle of 
it may be used. The stalks may be combined in a variety of 
ways. The leaves are used as a garnish. 

The celery seeds are ground and made into celery salt, 
which is used as a flavor for soups and sauces. The seeds 
are also used whole. 

Bay leaves are the leaves of a shrub belonging to the laurel 
family, growing wild along the Mediterranean. The leaves 
are exported dry and used in flavoring meats and soups. 

Parsley is a small, green herb, supposed to have come 
originally from Egypt, but now grown both in Europe and 
America, and probably used more than any other vegetable 
in flavoring and garnishing foods 

Summer savory, thyme, and sage are all botanically allied. 
Their flavor is fragrant and aromatic. They are used for 
flavoring meats and dressing for fowls. 

Mint, sweet marjoram, and tarragon are aromatic herbs 
grown in Europe and xA.merica and used extensively in the 
making of sauces, pickles and vinegar. 

Onions, leeks, shallot, and garlic are essential in the flavor- 
ing of meats, soups, sauces, and salads. The onion demands 
skilful handling. When used properly it is a wholesome con- 
diment. 

Only the smallest quantity of garlic should be used, owing 
to its strong, decided flavor. 

The leek is milder than the common onion, the shallot 
being the daintiest of them all. 

Capers are unopened flowers of a shrub which is cultivated 
in France, but grows wild in Italy and Africa. The buds are 
preserved in salt and vinegar and are used for flavoring gra- 
vies and sauces. They are considered almost indispensable in 
the serving of roast mutton. 

Curry powder is a manufactured powder, yellow in color, 
highly seasoned, and very aromatic. Used mostly in the 



PRACTICAL COOKERY 



East Indies. 

Mustard is the pulverized seed of a plant which grows 
in England. Good mustard should be a bright yellow color ; 
very aromatic as well as pungent in flavor. 

Horseradish plant grows in Europe and America. The 
roots of this plant are grated and prepared with salt and 
vinegar and served as a condiment. 

Ginger is a native of East and West Indies. The root is 
either decorticated and ground for seasoning purposes, or it 
is served whole in sugar. 

Different aromatic herbs are ground and sold in pack- 
ages It is preferable to use the unground product, as that 
contains more of the aroma and good oils. 

Flavors are mostly used in the making of sweetmeats. 
Perhaps the vanilla bean is used the most. The vanilla vine 
is a native of Central America and cultivated in South Amer- 
ica, West Indies and Mexico. The vanilla of commerce is 
made by extracting the oil from the seed pods. The best 
vanilla beans come from Mexico. 



43 



PRACTICAL COOKERY 



CHAPTER XI. 



SUGARS. 

Sugar is one of the principal carbohydrates. No other 
food is more universally used, both by young- and old. Not 
only is it a food pleasing to the taste, but it is one of the best 
heat givers. 

Common Sugars — Cane, maple, beetroot sugar, honey. 

Products of Cane Sugar — Granulated sugar, cut loaf sugar, 
brown sugar, powdered or confectioners' sugar, molasses. 

Sugar extracted from milk is called lactose. It is \ery 
expensive, and is used mostly in the preparation of infant 
foods. 

Honey is the purest natural form of sugar. The quality 
of the honey depends much on the flowers the bees feed upon. 
The finest quality of honey comes from Italy and Switzer- 
land. 

MANUFACTURING OF SUGARS. 

Cane Sugar — The juice is first extracted lrt)m the cane 
by crushing the stalk between a series of heavy rollers. Then 
it is clarified and boiled down to the required density in cop- 
per pans. As the syrup granulates it is removed from the fire. 
After cooling the fluid part is drained away from the crystals. 
These crystals are called raw sugar and are sent in this form 
to the refineries. 

In the refineries of the United States, raw sugar is mixed 
with hot water and treated with lime to neutralize any acid 
present, then filtered through flannel and afterwards through 
a bed of charcoal. 

The syrup is then boiled in vacuum pans. These are cov- 
ered vessels from which part of the air is exhausted. 

Under the reduced air pressure the sugar soluticin can l^e 
evaporated to a thick syrup without danger of burning. 

Granulated sugar is obtained from this syrup by putting 
it into machines with rapidly revolving cylinders which throw 
out the uncrystalizable part of the syrup and leave a mass of 
white crystals. 

The purest kind of sugar is made by running the syrup 
into molds, where it is allowed to harden. After it has hard- 
ened it is cut into cubes and sold as block sugar. 

Powdered sugar is made by grinding the fragments l")roken 
ofif in the cutting of block sugar. 



PRACTICAL COOKERY 



Brown sugars are the less refined grades. 

Molasses is the liquid that will not crystalize in the manu- 
facturing of sugar. 

Beet sugar, which is extracted from the crude root of the 
beet, is a much more complicated process than the extraction 
of the juices from the sugar cane, owing to the fact that the 
l>eet juices abound in impurities, acids, minerals and gummy 
matter. 

The juice is extracted by pressure, filtered through both 
lime and charcoal. 

The refining is the same as the refining of cane sugar. 

The maple sugar industry is almost exclusively confined 
to Canada and the United States. 

In early spring the maple trees are bored or tapped, and 
the sap collected. The sap needs no purification. It is simply 
boiled and reduced to a thick, golden syrup, known as maple 
syrup. It is also boiled to a sugar which is solidified into 
cakes and sold as maple sugar. It is a difficult matter to 
obtain pure maple sugar, most of it being adulterated with 
inferior grades of brown sugar. 

Sorghum is a sweet extracted from the stem of corn. The 
process of extracting the juices is similar to that used for ex- 
tracting the juices of the cane sugar. Generally the whole 
product is converted into a thick molasses. 

Glucose is a sugar syrup obtained by the conversion of 
starch into sugar. In Europe the potato starch is used. In 
America both corn and barley are converted into glucose. 

Starch yields about 50 per cent of its bulk in refined sugar. 

Sugar plants yield about 14 per cent in refined sugar. 
CANDIES. 
COOKED FONDANT. 

2 c. granulated sugar. 

^ c. cold water. 

% tsp. cream tartar. 

Anv flavoring desired. 

Boil all together until it makes a soft ball when tried in 
cold water. Turn out on large platter, and when cool work it 
until creamy. Divide into portions and flax'or to taste. Shape 
into chocolate creams, cream dates, nut creams and bonbons. 

PENOCHE. 

2 c. light brown sugar. 

^i c. milk. 

2 tbsp. butter. 

54 tsp. salt. 

45 



PRACTICAL COOKERY 



54 tsp. soda. 

1 c. chopped nuts. 

1 tsp. vanilla. 

Boil sugar, milk, salt and soda to soft-boil stage. Remove 
from the fire, add butter and flavoring. Boil till thick, then 
add nuts ; when cool it may be worked into a ball and kneaded 
on a slab of marble ; this will make it rich and creamy. Place 
on oiled pai)er and cut into squares. 

PEANUT BRITTLE. 

2 c. sugar. 

•j-^ c. shelled peanuts. 

Break peanuts in pieces, or chop them. Line a greased 
pan with peanuts. Put sugar in saucepan, and heat till it 
becomes thin, light brown syrup, stirring constantly. Pour 
over peanuts and mark in squares. When cool, break in 
pieces. 

TAFFY. 

2 c. molasses. 

1 c. sugar. 

1 tbsp. butter. 

1 tbsp. vinegar. 
3/2 tsp. soda. 

Boil first four ingredients together until it is brittle when 
tried in cold water, then stir in the soda. Pour into buttered 
pans; when cool, pull until light colored. 

FUDGE. 

2 c. sugar. 

1 c. milk. 

2 tbsp. butter. 
34 tsp. salt. 
14 tsp. soda. 

2 oz. chocolate. 

1 tsp. vanilla. 

2 tbsp. molasses. 

Boil sugar, chocolate, milk, molasses, salt and soda mitil 
it reaches the soft-boil stage. Remove from fire, add but- 
ter and vanilla and beat until thick and creamy, then spread 
on a buttered platter and cut in squares. 

MAPLE PUFFS. 

(Miss Martha Tenny.) 
2 c. light brown sugar. 
•14 c. cold water. 
1 c. chopped nuts. 

46 



PRACTICAL COOKERY 



Yi tsp. vanilla. 

White of an egg. 

Boil sugar and water until it will form a hard ball when 
tried in water. Beat white of ^g% until thick, pour syrup 
slowly into white of ^%^, add vanilla and beat till thick ; add 
nuts, and drop by spoonfuls on oiled paper. 

MARSHMALLOWS. \ 

2 rounded tbsp. gelatine. 

2 c. sugar. 

1 c. cold water. 

1 tsp. vanilla. 
y^ tsp. salt. 

Soak gelatine in half cup water until dissolved. Boil sugar 
with half cup water until it will spin a thread, then pour 
slowly into the gelatine, stirring it constantly. Add vanilla 
and salt ; beat until very thick. Pour on to a platter on which 
has been placed a thick layer of powdered sugar. Cover with 
powdered sugar; let stand for a few hours, then cut into 
squares and roll in powdered sugar. They may be dipped in 
melted chocolate instead of rolling into powdered sugar. 

MILLIONAIRE'S FUDGE. 

2 lbs. powdered sugar. 
y2 lb. chocolate. 

y2 lb. pecans. 

3/2 lb. marshmallows. 

1 c. cream. 

1 tbsp. butter. 

1 tsp. vanilla. 

Cut marshmallows into quarters, spread over large but- 
tered pan, put chopped nuts over the marshmallow^s. Boil 
sugar, chocolate, and cream, adding butter and vanilla ; when 
cooked, stir until it is thick, but not too long, as it must be 
hot enough to melt the marshmallows when poured over 
them. Be sure the marshmallows are fresh. 



47 



PRACTICAL COOKERY 



CHAPTER XII. 



FRUIT. 

Fruits are edible, succulent products of plants or trees. 
\^'ith but few exceptions, they contain little nourishment. 
Ne\ ertheless, they are considered a very essential part of the 
diet, owing to the large amount of refreshing juices they con- 
tain, also the mineral matter and large amount of water. 

Most fresh fruits contain about S^O per cent water and a 
large amount of cellulose. They contain no fat, a very small 
amount of protein, and when ripe a very small amount of 
starch, most of the starch having been converted inLo sugars 
and gums in process of ripening. One of these gums is called 
pectin, a substance which is absolutely essential in the mak- 
ing of jelly. It has the property of gelatinizing when boiled. 

In the drying of fruits, most of the water has evaporated. 
They should for that reason be soaked several hours before 
being cooked in order to restore some of the moisture. 
CLASSIFICATION OF FRUITS. 

Stone Fruits — Peach, apricot, plum, cherry, olive, grape. 

Pome Fruits — Apple, pear quince. 

Berries — Strawberry, raspberry, black]:)erry, mulberry, 
cranberry, gooseberry, currant. 

Citrous Fruits — Orange, lemon, grapefruit, lime, citron. 

Protein in fruits is in form of extractives and flavors, and 
a slight amount of albumin. 

Carbohydrate in form of sugar and starch in some fruits, 
such as bananas. 

Cellulose found in nearly all fruits. 

Tartaric acids found in grapes, raisins, currants. 

Malic acid, found in apples, pears, peaches, quinces, a]:)ri- 
cots, and plums. 

Citric acid, found in oranges, lemons, grapefruit. 

Oxalic acid, found in strawberries. 

Dried fruits contain from 50 to 75 per cent sugar. 

Prunes are dried plums. 

Raisins are dried grapes. 

Currants are dried currants from Asia Minor or Greece. 
APPLE SAUCE. 

Pare tart apples, cut in quarters, remove the core, cover 
fruit with cold water in which a little salt has been added. 
Cook until soft, in a covered vessel, then sweeten to taste. 

48" 



PRACTICAL COOKERY 



Usually about one cup of sugar to two of fruit is needed. If 
apples do not cook up well they may be put through a potato 
ricer. 

BAKED APPLES. 

Wash and core sound, tart apples ; fill the core with sugar, 
place a small piece of butter on top of each apple, and a little 
grated nutmeg. Place in a granite baking dish ; add enough 
l)oiHng water to cover bottom of dish. Bake in moderate 
oven until soft. When the apples are baking, dip the juice 
in the pan with a spoon and pour over top of apples to keep 
ap])les from hardening. 

FRIED APPLES. 
Mrs. Timmermier. 

1 qt. apples, peeled and cut in quarters. 
lYz c. sugar. 

2 tbsp. butter. 
yi c. water. 
Spk. salt. 

Boil sugar, water, butter and salt together for 15 minutes. 
Spread apples neatly in rows in a baking dish. Pour over 
the apples the prepared syrup, place in warm oven and cook 
until apples are a rich, gold color, basting them occasionally 
with the syrup. 

BAKED CARAMEL APPLES. 

Mrs. Timmermier. 

8 medium size apples, peeled and cored. 

2 c. sugar. 

y2 c. water. 

^ tsp. salt. 

Spk. grated nutmeg. 

2 tbsp. butter. 

Boil sugar, water, butter, salt, and nutmeg for 15 minutes. 
Place apples in a baking dish, pour syrup over them and 
place in a very hot oven for 20 minutes. Then lower the heat 
and bake the apples until they have absorbed the syrup and 
have become a deep pink. These apples should be basted 
often, thus preventing the top from hardening. They should 
be served hot with meat or may be served as a dessert with 
a little cream or hard sauce. 



STEWED PRUNES. 

1 lb. prunes. 

2 tbsp. sugar. 

I lemon, sliced. 



49 



PRACTICAL COOKERY 



Wash the prunes and soak them for several hours, or over 
night, in sufficient cold water to cover them. Add sugar and 
lemon, and cook them 30 minutes, or until soft. 

RHUBARB SAUCE. 

1 pt. rhubarb, washed and cut in half-inch lengths. 
1^ c. sugar. 
Spk. salt. 

1 orange, sliced thin. (This may be omitted.) 
Mix these four ingredients together, place in baking dish 
and cook in a slow oven until tender and a deep red color. 



so 



PRACTICAL COOKERY 



CHAPTER XIII. 



CANNING. 

Every piece of food, whether fruit, vegetables or meat, no 
matter how fresh, is filled with tiny, invisible organisms which 
cause it to spoil. The air, no matter how clear it may look, is 
filled with these tiny organisms which spoil food. These or- 
ganisms are of two classes : yeast spores, which attack fruits, 
and bacteria, which attack vegetables and meats. 

Yeasts are killed by lower degrees of heat than bacteria ; 
170° to 180° Fahrenheit will usually be sufficient. A short 
boiling is therefore enough for killing yeast in fruits. Bac- 
teria, however, resist destruction by heat for a long time. 
Two and even more hours at boiling point (212° F.) are 
required to render all fish, meats and most vegetables, proof 
against spoiling. 

This is the reason fruits may be cooked in an open kettle, 
poured into jars hot, capped and clamped at once, before the 
temperature falls much below the boiling point. Vegetables 
and meat handled this way will give bacteria a chance to 
light on food while being poured into the jar, and will cause 
it to spoil. 

All vegetables and meats should be cooked in closed jars 
and not exposed to the air. When the food in jar is hot it is 
very much expanded ; in cooling, it shrinks, forming a 
vacuum. 

In shrinking it draws the cap down tight, and by the 
atmospheric pressure of about 15 pounds to the square inch, 
holds it tighter, until when cold the cap is held tight and 
securely. 

Jars should be sterilized by placing in cold water and 
letting the water come to boiling point. Caps and rubbers 
should be dipped in boiling water, but not allowed to remain 
there. 

JELLIES, PRESERVES, AND CANNING OF FOODS. 

Preserving, in the ordinary sense, means the cooking of 
fruits in thick syrup made of equal weights of sugar and fruit, 
little or no water being used, according to the fruit. 

Canning is preserving sterilized foods in sterilized air-tight 
cans or jars. Meats, fish, vegetables and fruits are thus pre- 
served. 



PRACTICAL COOKERY 



GENERAL DIRECTIONS FOR FILLING JARS. 

Remove the jars from the boiling water. Place fruit in 
jar, the rounded side of fruit towards the outside of jar. Fill 
with syrup. Use blade of silver knife to push fruit away 
from jar to allow air bubbles to rise to the surface and break. 
Fill to overflowing; place the rubber on the jar, put on the 
cover and screw it tight. Turn the jar upside down to see if 
it is airtight. 

CANNED PEACHES. 

Pare the peaches, dropping them into cold water. Make a 
syrup, allowing two cups of water and one pound of sugar to 
three pounds of peaches. Boil it 15 minutes. Cut peaches in 
two. stone them, and put peaches and stone into the syrup. 
The flavor of peaches is improved by cooking the stones with 
them. Cook the fruit until, when tried with a knitting needle, 
it is found to be soft. 

Pears, cherries and plums may be canned like peaches. 

PRESERVED GINGERED PEARS. 

Eight pounds pears cut into slices, 8 pounds of sugar, 4 
lemons, ^4 lb. preserved ginger. 

Put the sugar on stove with one pint of water. When 
dissolved, put in pears, and simmer for two hours. Slice the 
lemons, cook until tender, add ginger when the pears have 
cooked two hours. 

STRAWBERRY PRESERVES. 

1 qt. berries, steamed and mashed. 

1 lb. sugar. 

y^ pt. water. 

Bring the sugar and water to the boiling point and skim, 
then l)oil ten minutes longer. Drop in the berries and boil for 
l.S minutes. Lift the berries out with a strainer and place on 
a platter. Tip the platter and drain all juice, returning it to 
the remainder of syrup. Boil \S minutes longer. Pour over 
the berries, and stand the platter in the sun from twelve to 
eighteen hours. 

APRICOT MARMALADE. 

Wash and soak dried apricots for several hours, then cook 
in the water in which they have been soaking. When fruit is 
soft, rub it through a sieve, and to each cup of fruit pulp add 
one cup sugar and one tbsj) of lemon juice. Cook fruit pulp, 
sugar and lemon juice together over a verv slow fire until 
very thick. This must be stirred constantly to keep from 
burning. Turn into sterilized glasses and set aside to harden. 
Cover with parafifin. 



PRACTICAL COOKERY 



CRANBERRY JELLY. 

4 c. cranberries. 

1 or 2 c. water. 

3 c. sugar. 

Pick over and wash the cranberries ; cook them with the 
water until they burst from their skins, press through a 
strainer, add the sugar and stir until the sugar is dissolved. 
Stop stirring and boil eight or ten minutes, or until it jells. 
Pour into moulds or glasses which have been wet with cold 
water and set away to cool. 

ORANGE MARMALADE. 

6 oranges. 
3 lemons. 

7 c. cold water. 
133^ c. sugar. 

Slice oranges and lemons very thin, lengthwise ; add the 
water and cook one and one-half hours. Dissolve sugar in a 
little of the liquid in which fruit has been cooking. Bring 
sugar to a boil and skim ofif all impurities. Add this syrup to 
the fruit and cook for 20 minutes or longer, if it seems too 
thin. Turn into sterilized glasses and set aside to harden, 
then cover with parafifin. 

GRAPE JAM. 

Remove the grapes from the stems. Wash them and press 
the pulp from the skins. Boil the pulp until it will separate 
from the seeds. Rub through a sieve. Add the skins to the 
pulp and boil with an equal weight of sugar for 15 minutes. 
Put into jars and when cool cover with paraffin. 

JELLIES. 

Wash the fruit, and remove stems and imperfections. Cut 
large fruit into pieces. With watery fruits, such as grapes 
and currants, use no water. With apples and quinces, use 
enough water to cover them. Cook fruit until the juice flows. 
Remove from the fire and strain. Measure the juice, boil 20 
minutes and add an equal quantity of heated sugar; boil five 
minutes, or until jelly stiffens when tried on a plate; skim, 
turn into sterilized glasses, and set aside to harden. Cover 
with melted paraffin. Keep jellies in a cool, dr}- place. 

CRAB APPLE JELLY. 

Remove the blossom and decayed portion from the fruit ; 
if large, cut into pieces, but do not pare or remove the seeds. 
Nearly cover with cold water. Cook the fruit until soft. 
Drain, first in a colander, then in a jelly bag. Use the juice 

53 



PRACTICAL COOKERY 



only and do not press the bag except for a second grade jelly. 

To 1 c. juice, use 1 c. sugar. 

Boil the juice slowly for 15 minutes; add the sugar and 
boil for five minutes, skimming as often as necessary. Pour 
into jelly glasses and when hard cover with parafifin. 

BEANS. 

Have beans as fresh from the vines as possible. Be sure 
all pods are tender and brittle, and cut in convenient lengths. 
Boil in open kettle 10 minutes; pour ofT water and pack solidly 
in jars. Fill with cold water, clamp on cap and boil for three 
hours. 

CORN. 

Secure fresh, young corn. Score down in the center of each 
row and press out the pulpy materials. Fill jars with the pulp 
and a little cold water, to which a little salt and sugar has 
been added. Seal jars and boil for four hours. 

BEETS. 

Boil small red beets for 30 minutes, remove skins, pack in 
jars, fill with cold water and boil one hour. 

TOMATOES. 

Select solid tomatoes of medium size. Scald and peel 
them, place in kettle and cook slowly about half an hour, 
being careful not to break the tomatoes, then pour into hot 
sterilized tin preserving cans. Place cover on securely and 
seal with sealing wax. 

SPICED PEARS AND PEACHES. 

7 lbs. pears or peaches. 

3 lbs. sugar. 

1 pt. vinegar. 

Yz oz. ginger root. 

Vz lemon (rind). 

Whole cloves. 

Whole allspice. 

Stick cinnamon. 

Cut the pears in half, remove the seeds and pare. Put the 
vinegar and sugar on to boil Into each piece of the pear stick 
three or four cloves. Divide the cinnamon, allspice and gin- 
ger into two parts, put into small pieces of cheese cloth, tie 
tightlv, and then throw them into the sugar and vinegar. When 
the mixture begins to simmer, add pears and lemon rind, bring 
all to boiling point, take from the fire, and turn carefully into a 
stone jar. Stand in a cool place over night. Next day drain 
all the syrup from the pears into a porcelain lined or agate 

54 



PRACTICAL COOKERY 



kettle, cook over a moderate fire, and when boiling hot pour 
it back in the jar over the pears. Next day drain and heat 
again as before ; do this for seven consecutive days. The last 
day boil the syrup down until there is just enough to cover 
the fruit. Add the fruit to the hot syrup, bring the whole to 
a boil, and put in stone or glass jars or tumblers. The pears 
may be finished in one day, by taking out the fruit and cook- 
ing the syrup slowly down to the right amount, then the fruit 
is added to re-heat it and finish as above. The fruit is less 
rich if done in this way. 

SPICED BEANS. 
4 qts. beans. 

3 c. brown sugar. 

1 pt. cider vinegar. 

1 tbsp. salt. 

2 qts. water. 

1 tbsp. whole cloves. 
1 tsp. allspice 
Yz nutmeg. 

1 6-in. stick cinnamon, broken into pieces. 
Small piece horseradish. 

TOMATO CATSUP. 
12 ripe tomatoes. 

2 large onions. 

4 green peppers. 
2 tbsp. salt. 

4 tbsp. brown sugar. 

2 tbsp. ginger. 

1 tbsp. cinnamon. 

1 tbsp. mustard. 

1 nutmeg (grated). 

1 qt. vinegar. 

Peel the tomatoes and onions. Chop the onions and pep- 
pers fine. Boil all the ingredients together for three hours, 
or until soft and broken. Stir frequently. Bottle and seal 
while hot. 

CORN RELISH. 
(Mrs. Chapin.) 

6 c. cabbage, chopped fine. 

6 c. corn, cut from cob. 

1^ c. sugar. 

1 tbsp. salt. 

y^ box mustard. 

1 qt. vinegar. 



PRACTICAL COOKERY 



5 red peppers, chopped fine. 

1 tbsp. flour, dissolved in vinegar. 

Cook all tog-ether slowly for one hour. 



56 



PRACTICAL COOKERY 



CHAPTER XIV. 



VEGETABLES. 

Vegetables are herbaceous plants used wholly or in part 
for culinary purposes. They are an economical food when 
used in season. 

If possible, at least two vegetables should be planned for 
every dinner. 

All vegetables contain a large amount of water. Some are 
rich in carbohydrates and contain a great deal of mineral salts 

The food value of vegetables depends upon the composi- 
tion, which varies with the kind, also upon the method of 
preparation. In the cooking of vegetables they should not 
only be prepared in a palatable way. but should be made as 
nutritious as possible. 

Those depending entirely upon a vegetarian diet should 
carefully study the chemical composition of each vegetable. 
Otherwise they will have a one-sided diet. One should be- 
come familiar with the different methods of dressing and pre- 
paring vegetables, so that if the selection is limited, they may 
lend variety to the diet by being cooked in different ways. 
A potato well baked or properly boiled is a nourishing and 
appetizing dish, but would soon become monotonous if served 
every day. 

There are possibly thirty if not more different ways of 
serving potatoes, so that one need not repeat the same method 
too often. 

The woody part of vegetables is called cellucose, the 
toughness of which depends upon the age, soil and season of 
the year. If vegetables are old, the addition of a little cooking 
soda to the water in which they are being cooked will help to 
soften the woody framework. 

CLASSIFICATION. 

Tubers — Potatoes, artichokes, peanuts. 
Roots — Turnips, beets, carrots, radishes, parsnips, sweet 
potatoes. 

Bulbs — Onions, leeks, garlic. 
Stem — Celery, asparagus. 
Leaves — Lettuce, cabbage, spinach. 
Flowers — Cauliflower. 
Seeds — Peas, beans. 



PRACTICAL COOKERY 



TIME-TABLE FOR COOKING VEGETABLES IN 
WATER. 

Potatoes, 30 min. Spinach, 45 min. 

Carrots, 45 min. Celery, 30 min. 

Turnips, 45 min. Parsnips, 45 min. 

Beets (young), 45 min. Green peas, 45 min. 

Beets (old), 3 hrs. String beans, 20 min. 

Tomatoes, 20 min. Lima beans, 2 hours or more. 

Onions, 60 min. Green corn, 20 min. 

Cabbage, 60 min. Rice, 45 min. 

Cauliflower, 30 min. Macaroni, 60 min. 

Asparagus, 30 min. 

GENERAL RULES. 

Wash thoroughly, pare or scrape if skins must be removed. 
Stand in cold water until cooked, to keep them crisp and to 
prevent their being discolored. Cook in boiling water ; the 
water must be kept at the boiling point. Use 1 tbsp. salt with 
2 qts. water; put the salt into the water when the vegetables 
are partially cooked. The water in which vegetables are 
cooked is called vegetable stock. 

Fresh green vegetables require less water than others. 

Cabbage, cauliflower, onions, and turnips should be cooked 
uncovered in a large amount of water. 

All vegetables must be drained as soon as tender. Season 
with salt and pepper and serve hot with butter or sauce. 

Use vegetables which are in season and select medium 
sized or small, rather than large vegetables. Underground 
vegetables should be cooked in boiling water covered. 

EDIBLE FUNGI. 

The diflference between edible fungi and vegetables is in 
the large amount of protein they contain. Edible fungi rank- 
higher than cereals and legumes in nutritive value. 

In flavor as well as nutritive value they closely resemble 
that of animal food. 

Edible Fungi — Mushrooms, morels, truffles. 

Legumes — Beans, peas, lentils. 

Tubers and Succulent Roots — Potato, cassava, turnip, car- 
rot, beet, parsnip, salisfy. 

Salad Plants — Lettuce, endive, radish, celery, watercress, 
spinach, artichoke, chives, cucumber. 



PRACTICAL COOKERY 



AVERAGE CHEMICAL COMPOSITION OF VEGE- 
TABLES AS PURCHASED (Atwater). 

to . 

4^ 4J *-■ ■" 1)*-' *^ _J ^ 

§U ^O ^U U O^U U Z'z^ 

aid) ►.<!) 1-0) tSO) ajpoi mo) i3oj<i' 

wch ;sc4 OhCu fe^ a~cu <c» fa-O" 

Asparagus 94.0 1.8 .2 3.3 .7 105 

Beans, Butter, green 50.0 29.4 4.7 .3 14.6 1.0 370 

Beans, dried.... 12.6 22.5 1.8 59.6 3.5 1605 

Beans, Lima, dried 10.4 18 1 1.5 65.9 4.1 1625 

Beans, Lima, fresh... 55.0 30.8 3.2 .3 9.9 .8 255 

Beans, String, fresh 7.0 83.0 2.1 .3 6.9 .7 180 

Beets, fresh 20.0 70.0 1.3 .1 7.7 .9 170 

Cabbage, fresh 15.0 77.7 1.4 .2 4.8 .9 125 

Carrots, fre-sh 20.0 70.6 .9 .2 7.4 .9 160 

Cauliflower, fresh 92.3 1.8 .5 4.7 .7 140 

Celery 20.0 75.6 .9 .1 2.6 .8 70 

Corn, green _ 610 29.4 1.2 .4 7.7 .3 180 

Cucumbers 15.0 81.1 .7 .2 2.6 .4 70 

Egg Plant, edible 

portion 92.9 1.2 .3 5.1 .5 130 

Lentils, dried 8.4 25.7 1.0 59.2 5.7 1620 

Lettuce 15.0 80.5 1.0 .2 2.5 .8 75 

Mushrooms 88.1 3.5 .4 6.8 1.2 210 

Okra 12.5 78.9 1.4 .2 6.5 .5 155 

Onions, fresh 10.0 78.9 1.4 .3 8.9 .5 205 

Parsnips 20.0 66.4 1.3 .4 10.8 1.1 240 

Peas, green 45.0 40.8 3.6 .2 9.8 .6 255 

Potatoes, fresh 20.0 62.6 1.8 .1 14 7 .8 310 

Potatoes, Sweet, 

fresh ... 20,0 55.2 1.4 .6 21.9 .9 460 

Spinach 92.3 2.1 .3 3.2 2.1 110 

Squash 50.0 44.2 .7 .2 4.5 .4 105 

Tomatoes, fresh 94 3 .9 .4 3.9 .5 105 

Turnips 30.0 62.7 .9 .1 S7 .6 125 

BAKED POTATOES. 

Medium sized. Scrub with a brush. Bake in a moderate 
oven on a grate until soft — about 45 minutes — turning occa- 
sionally. When done, press in a cloth until skin breaks, to 
let steam escape. Serve folded in a napkin or in an uncov- 
ered dish. 

STUFFED BAKED POTATOES. 

6 baked potatoes. 

2 tbsp. butter. 

59 



PRACTICAL COOKERY 



3^2 c. hot milk. 

1 tbsp. salt. 

3/2 tsp. pepper. 

1 tsp. chopped parsley. 

Bake large potatoes. Cut lengthwise thrt)ugh center, re- 
move inside of the potato, mash, season, return to the shell 
and brown. Cover top of potato with grated cheese. 
BOILED POTATOES. 

Select potatoes of uniform size, scrub, pare and remove all 
spots. Put them into boiling salted water and boil gently 
about 30 minutes, or till tender, when tried with a fork. Drain 
off the water ; shake the pan over the fire to make the potatoes 
dry and mealy. Scr\e in a hot unco\-ered dish. 

MASHED POTATOES. 

1 j)t. hot boiled potatoes. 

1 tbsp. salt. 

/s tsp. pepper. 

2 tbsp. butter. 
3^ c. hot milk. 

Mash potatoes in a hot pan, add seasonings and hot milk. 
Beat with a fork to make white and light. Heap on a hot 
dish without smoothing the top. If desired, place the dish on 
the grate of a hot oven, to brown the top. 

CREAMED POTATOES. 

6 potatoes, peeled and cut in cubes. 

2 tbsp. butter. 

2 tbsp. flour. 

1 c. milk. 

1 tsp. salt. 

Yf^ tsp. pepper. 

1 tsp. chopped parsley. 

Boil potatoes till tender, make cream sauce by melting 
butter, then adding flour, then milk, and cook tiH thick. Add 
seasoning and pour over potatoes. One-quarter cup grated 
cheese may be added to potatoes if desired. 

ESCALLOPED POTATOES. 

Six medium sized potatoes, peeled and cut in ver}' thin 
slices; place in a buttered baking dish in layers, alternating 
with salt, pepper, butter, and a thin layer of sifted flour. Add 
warm milk so that it is visible on top layer. Bake in a slow 
(nen one and a half hours. If potatoes are covered part of the 
time while baking, they will bake quicker. Serve in dish in 
which it is baked. 



PRACTICAL COOKERY 



LYONNAISE POTATOES. 

2 c. cooked, chopped potatoes. 

1 even tbsp. finely chopped onion. 

2 tbsp. butter. 

1 tbsp. chopped parsley. 

Salt and pepper to taste. 

Melt the butter, add the onion, and fry until a delicate 
brown. Add the seasoned potatoes and stir carefully until 
they have absorbed all the butter. Add the parsley and serve 
at once. 

POTATOES O'BRIEN. 

Cut four good sized, pared potatoes into pieces one-third 
of an inch square. Let stand in ice water an hour or longer, 
then drv thoroughly. Fry in hot, deep fat for ten minutes and 
drain thoroughly. Melt one tbsp. butter in a frying pan ; 
add the potatoes, three sweet red peppers, cut in tiny squares, 
and half a tsp. salt ; let cook ten minutes, turning them mean- 
while. Serve in a hot dish. 

FRANCONIA POTATOES. 

Pare the potatoes and parboil ten minutes; drain and put 
on the rack in the pan in which meat is roasting; baste when 
the meat is basted. Potatoes thus treated will bake in about 
45 minutes. Cook turnips and large ripe cucumbers, pared, 
and seeds removed, in the same fashion. 

FRENCH FRIED POTATOES. 

Scrub and pare the potatoes and cut in eighths, lengthwise ; 
let stand in water, then dry between towels. Fry in a basket, 
a few at a time. Drain on soft paper and sprinkle with salt. 
Serve at once, as they retain their crispness but a short time. 
Avoid having the fat too hot. 

WHOLE POTATOES, BALLS, CURLS, ETC., FRIED. 

Potatoes, pared whole, may be cooked in hot fat, but the 
fat should not be too hot, as the potatoes need to cook about 
half an hour. If properly cooked the potatoes will be very 
mealy. Potatoes for frying are cut in any fanciful shapes. 
They make an attractive garnish for dishes of broiled meat. 

CANDIED SWEET POTATOES. 

Pare and slice the raw potatoes into a baking dish ; sprinkle 
each layer with sugar and small pieces of butter, and a little 
salt. Cover with water and bake two hours in a moderate 
oven. 



PRACTICAL COOKERY 



MASHED SWEET POTATOES WITH NUTS. 

6 or 8 medium size potatoes. 

Yz c. milk. 

34 c. cream. 

3/2 c. chopped nuts. 

Salt and pepper to taste. 

I tbsp. butter. 

Cook poUitoes, when tender, mash them and a(hl all the 
ingredients, and beat well. Turn into a buttered baking dish. 
Put small pieces of butter on top and place in a hot oven long 
enough to brown the top. or it may be spread on a platter and 
when cool cut with a biscuit cutter or into squares and rolled 
in fine bread crumbs and into beaten ^%^, then bread crumbs 
again and fried in deep fat. Drain on brown paper and serve 
either as a \egetablc or a meat substitute. 

SPINACH. 

Wash spinach in several waters, using only the leaves, 
cook over a slow fire without adding any water. When tender, 
drain ofif the water, chop very fine or put through a sieve, sea- 
son with salt, pepper or speck of grated nutmeg and a little 
sugar and butter. A little lemon juice will help bring out the 
flavor. 

Spread on a platter and decorate with slices of hard boiled 
eggs or stufYed eggs. Some grated cheese spread over the 
whole dish improves the flavor. The water that is drained 
ofif after spinach is cooked may be kept and used in making 
spinach soup. 

FRIED EGG PLANT. 

Peel and cut egg plant into strips and sprinkle with salt ; 
make a fritter batter and dip each piece sej^ara^^ely and fry a 
golden brown in deep fat. Drain on brown paper. Serve at 
once. 

STUFFED EGG PLANT. 

1 medium size ^^^ plant. 

1 c. cooked rice. 

1 c. meat, chopped fine (chicken or veal is best). 

^ onion, grated. 

1 green pepper, chopped fine. 

1 tbsp. lemon juice. 

Salt and pepper to taste. 

Cut a medium size e^^ plant in half. I'^ng'^l-'v.ise, and 
scrare out the inside, leavine shell about half a-i inch thick. 
Boil in salt water till tender the pieces removed : when tender, 
-.-hop fine ; mix all the other ingredients, return to ^^^ plant 

62 



PRACTICAL COOKERY 



shell. Put in baking dish, cover tops with buttered bread 
crumbs, and bake in a quick oven for 20 minutes. 
FRIED TOMATOES. 
Wash and cut tomatoes in slices half-inch thick, dip into 
beaten egg", then in bread crumbs, and saute in bacon fat or 
half butter and lard. Season well with salt and pepper and a 
little prepared poultry seasoning. These must be fried very 
slowly, or else the crumbs will burn before the tomatoes are 
cooked through. Serve on slices of toast, either for break- 
fast or luncheon. 

STUFFED TOMATOES. 
(Mrs. McMillen.) 
6 tomatoes. 

3 onions, chopped fine. 

4 tbsp. bacon fat. 

Yi. tbsp. brown sugar. 
1 tbsp. celery seed. 

1 tbsp. butter. 

^ c. bread crumbs. 

Salt and pepper to taste. 

Fry the onion carefully in bacon fat until rich brown color. 
Cut out the inside of tomatoes, leaving only the shell. Cut 
tomato pulp into small pieces, add to onion and the rest of the 
ingredients; cook together for 20 minutes, then fill the shells; 
cover top with buttered crumbs and bake in very hot oven for 
five minutes. 

SPAGHETTI. 

Yi pt. spaghetti. 
Yz lb. round steak. 

2 onions. 

1 qt. tomatoes. 
1 green pepper. 

1 small red pepper. 

2 carrots. 

1 turnip. 

2 tsp. salt. 

Cover spaghetti with cold water and cook in double l^oiler 
till soft. Drain thoroughly and rinse in cold water through 
collander. 

Cook meat and vegetables together with sufficient water 
to keep them well covered. When vegetables are cooked soft, 
put them through a vegetable sieve and add to the spaghetti ; 
add salt, a little paprika, and a few drops of tobasco sauce If 
desired, grated cheese may be added. This may be used as a 



PRACTICAL COOKERY 



meat substitute. 

MACARONI AU GRATIN. 

Mix three-fourths of a cup of cooked macaroni with a cuj) 
of cream or tomato sauce. Add from one-fourth to half a cup 
of grated cheese; turn into an au gratin dish, cover with but- 
tered cracker crumbs and set into a hot oven to brown the 
crumbs. 

MACARONI CROQUETTES. 

2 c. cohl boiled macaroni, cut very line. 

2 tbsp. butter. 

2 tbsp. flour. 

^ c. milk. 

% tsp. mustard. 

y^ c. grated cheese. 

1 tsp. salt. 

Pepper and paprika to taste. 

Melt butter, add flour, then milk and cook till thick.; add 
seasoning, macaroni and cheese. Spread on a platter to cool, 
then cut with a biscuit cutter. Roll in tine bread crumbs and 
in beaten eggs, and last in bread crumbs. Fry in deep fat, 
drain on brown paper. 

CORN PUDDING. 

6 ears of corn. 

y2 c. cream. 

1 tsp. salt. 

y^ tsp. sugar. 

y^ tsp. pepper. 

Cut each row of corn through center, then cut ofif the cob, 
taking care to scrape off all the milk ; add 12 eggs, slightly 
beaten, the cream and the seasoning, and bake in a slow oven 
for half an hour. 

ESCALLOPED ONIONS. 

Slice onions very thin ; put into a buttered dish a layer of 
buttered bread crumbs, then a layer of onions ; season with salt 
and pepper. Repeat this process till onions are used up. hav- 
ing bread crumbs on top ; cover with milk and bake in a slow 
o\-en until onions are cooked soft. 

CAULIFLOWER. 

Trim off the outside leaves and cut the stalk even with 
the edible portion. Let stand, head downward, in cold salted 
water half an hour to draw out insects that may be present. 
Steam or cook head downward in an uncovered kettle of 
boiling salted water, until tender. Serve with cream or Hoi- 



PRACTICAL COOKERY 



landaise sauce. Cooked flowerets of cauliflower are used to 
garnish dishes of veal, chicken and sweetbreads, and making 
salads. 

BAKED CABBAGE. 

(Mrs. C. N. Stevens.) 

1 small cabbage. 

2 eggs. 

1 tbsp. butter. 

3 tbsp. cream. 
Yi tsp. salt. 

yi tsp. pepper. 

Yi green pepper, chopped fine. 

Boil cabbage 15 minutes, then change water and boil again 
until cabbage is soft. Drain thoroughly, add beaten ^^^ and 
other ingredients, cover top with buttered crumbs and bake 
for 20 minutes. 

METHOD OF PREPARING MUSHROOMS FOR 
COOKING. 

Scrape the stems, cut ofif the ends. Peel the caps of the 
mushrooms. Wash them in salted water to remove the insects 
from the gills. Soak a few minutes in fresh cold water. 

CREAMED MUSHROOMS. 

1 can mushrooms. 

1 green pepper, chopped fine. 

2 hard boiled eggs. 

y^ c. chipped beef, cut very fine. 
1 tbsp. lemon juice. 

4 tbsp. butter. 
4 tbsp. flour. 

1 c. milk. 

Juice from the mushrooms. Salt and pepper to taste. Melt 
butter, add the flour and the yolks of eggs and mix together 
until smooth. Then add the liquid and green pepper and cook 
till thick, stirring constantly; then add chipped beef, mush- 
rooms, whites of ^g^ cut fine and the lemon juice and season- 
ing, and one tsp. chopped parsley. Serve in bread cases or 
pattie shells or on toast. 



PRACTICAL COOKERY 



CHAPTER XV. 



MEAT. 

The subject of meat is so comprehensive, it would be im- 
possible to describe it fully in this one chapter. It is a sul)- 
ject that needs the most careful consideration in the home, for 
it is on this particular point that the greatest wasLe is likely 
to occur. 

It is claimed that the American housewife is to blame for 
the high prices of meat, because her knowledge of the dif- 
ferent cuts is limited to the ribs and the loins The ribs of the 
animal comprise less than one-tenth of the beef carcass. The 
loins weigh less than one-sixth. So for every pound of loin 
there are more than five pounds of other good meat, and about 
nine pounds of meat to every pound of ribs. Then why not 
familiarize oneself with the different cuts, and specially the 
cheaper ones, which, if properly prepared, are more nutritious 
than the choicest cuts. 

The question of time in planning and preparation plays 
an important part in the consumption of meat. 

Many housekeepers, unmindful of the fact that it is econ- 
omy of time and materials to plan menus two or perhaps 
three days ahead, are likely to forget completely about the 
menu until an hour or so before the meal is to be served ; then 
in their hurry and confusion, they order fillet of beef, porter- 
house steak or prime rib roasts, knowing that those are the 
few tender cuts that will need practicallv no preparation, and 
will take but a short time to cook. Many delectable dishes 
may be prepared from the poorest cuts of meat, but they need 
long, slow cooking, and perhaps the addition of spices and 
vegetables. Often a cheap cut of meat will be greatly im- 
proved, if the day before it is tq be used it is carefully rubbed 
with olive oil and lemon juice, the acid of the lemon being a 
great help in tearing down the tough fibres. 

Our European neighbors are skilled in the preparation of 
delicious dishes from every part of the animal. Tf it were not 
for the products of beef, the cost of meat would be still higher 
than it is at the present time. 

Every particle of the animal is used. Gelatine and glue 
are extracted from the bones. Combs, buttons, and knife han- 
dles are manufactured from the horns, bones and hoofs. 

Roughlv speaking, about one-third of the animal is sold as 
ofifal. 

66 



PRACTICAL COOKERY 



Certain parts of the animal are sold as edible offal, such as 
the hearts, livers, ox-tails, sweetbreads, kidneys and kidney- 
fat, which is used in the manufacture of butterine. The stom- 
ach is cleansed and sold as tripe. The intestines are cleansed, 
salted and used for sausage casings. The blood is converted 
into sausage, and owing to the large percentage of albumin it 
contains it is also coagulated and dried and used in the refin- 
ing of sugar, also as fertilizers. 

The skins are sent to the tanneries. The long hairs are 
used in the making of mattresses. 

If the housewife would familiarize herself with the science 
of economy to the extent that packers have had to, the cost of 
living would soon drop at least 50 per cent. 

Animal foods are divided into three classes : Meat, eggs, 
and milk. These foods are characterized by the nitrogenous 
elements or protein which they contain in abundance. 

Approximate chemical composition of meat : 

Water, 12 to 75 per cent. 

Fat, 3 per cent in dried beef to 90 per cent in fat pork. 

Protein, 10 to 22 per cent. 

Carbohydrates, only a very slight amount. 

Meat, to be wholesome and nutritious, should come from 
a healthy, well-nourished animal. The tougher cuts of meat 
are the much used muscles which absorb much food, making 
the meat rich and juicy. 

1. Beef in the best condition should come from an animal 
from four to five years old and grass fattened. Stall fed ani- 
mals contain a surplus amount of fat, not useful beyond a 
certain limit. 

2.' The meat is marbled with firm, light streaks of fat riin- 
ning through the muscular tissues. 

3. Deep yellow fat indicates age. 

4. The lean should be firm and elastic and when first cut, 
purplish red. 

5. Flabbv. dark, coarse beef, with yellow fat, comes from 
an old, underfed animal. 

6. The skeleton of the animal is covered with a thick layer 
of muscular fibers, known as the lean. 

7. These muscles are composed of bundles of hundreds of 
slender threads, held together bv connective tissues. 

8. Each fibre is a bundle of tube-shaped cells, filled chiefly 
with protein substances. 

9. There is not a movement of the body that does not 
require the aid of one or more sets of muscles. The more 

67 



PRACTICAL COOKERY 



active llii-y .'irc llic more frocly tlic l)l(i()(l Hows through ihcm. 

10. 'I lie neck, shoulder, sides and legs are exercised more 
than llic haik, and consequently are tougher cuts. 

11. The cooking of meat is to improve the flavor and a])- 
jjcarancu-. to soften tlie libers and connecting tissues. 

1_' When lean meat is subjected to a ])rocess of long, slow 
cooking, the connective tissues become gelatinized and help to 
hold the lean libers together in a solid, tender, juicy mass. If, 
on llie conlr.irv. the lean meat is subjected to a high tempera- 
ture, till' coiiiu'ctiv e tissues will be destroyed and the meat 
will separate into long, touj^h libers. 

1,V When a choice, tender cut of nu'at is cooki'(l it is sub- 
jected to intense heat, whii-h hardens the albumin on its sur- 
face, therebv sealing itp the juices inside, thi-n to a lower tem- 
perature to complete the cooking of these juices. 

M. There arc- in all nine dilTerent cuts: Chuck, rib. loin, 
rump, round, fore-shoulder, hind di;ink. navebcnd. and brisket. 

]5 'riie rib ;ind loin sell lor nearly twice as much as the 
round, and lH'in t w < » to ten times as much as the other cut^; 

The most common mist.nke m;ide in prei)aring left-o\er 
nic'.ils is in c-ooking them a.gain. instead of merely re-warming. 
Ill the' niajorilN of rcci])es the- re hc;iting is done in a sauce. 
Upon this dci)ends the flavor and success of the dish. The 
sauce should be lirst made, and the meat cooked in it only long 
enough tct be thoroughly heated and seasoned. W here c-ream 
s;iuces are used it is bettc-r .nnd safer to put tlu-ni in a f.irina 
boiler and then add the meat. 

The seasoning of re-cooked nieats re(|nircs spec-ial skill, for 
the law of c-oiubination is by no means fixed. \'eal and 
chicken ;ire the easiest meats to re c-ook. I'c-i'f c-oiues next 
|.;iinb and mnlton more often tax the- rc-sonrc-cs. Thc-y need 
more palatable seasoning. :\ little .-icid. like clioiipc-d pickle 
or oli\f, oi- ;i t.ablespoonful of capers adds to their iLixor. 
( i.ame is usually cut into delicate slices, or minc-ed and re- 
warmed in a brown sanc-c to which currant or other acid jellies, 
spices or condiments ha\'e bc-en added. 

CUTTING OF ANIMAL. 

1. l)i\ide in b.ilf through the b.ic-kbone. 

2. Kach half cut crosswise, usually between the tenth .and 
3. Average weight of each cpiarter. from 150 to 200 lbs. 

FORE QUARTER. 
Cuts. Uses. Trices. 

Neck Sou]> and stews 8c 

Chuck I'ot ro.ists \2 to ITk 



68 



PRACTICAL COOKERY 



Kibs Roasts, long cut 18 to 24c 

Ribs (three nearest hind quarter). ..Rolled roast 25 to 30c 

Ribs (two nearest the neck) Roasts 18 to 20c 

Plate Corning 8 to 10c 

Fore shank Soup 5c 

HIND QUARTER. 

Loin and choice steaks — 

] 'orterhouse Steaks 25 to 30c 

Sirloin Steaks 25 to 30c 

Tenderloin Fillet of beef 5 to 10c 

Flank Corning and steaks 10 to 12c 

kump Steaks, roast, stew...l2 to 16c 

Round Steaks, roast, stew...l2 to 14c 

Hind shank Soup 5c 




Fig. L 
1— Neck. 
2 — Chuck. 

3 — First cut chuck ribs. 
4 — Third cut ribs. 
5 — Second cut ribs. 
6 — First cut ribs. 
7 — Porterhouse. 
8 — Sirloin. 
9 — Tail end of rntnp. 



Side of Beef. 

10 — Top of rcnnid. 

11— Round. 

12- Leg. 

13 — Top of sirloin. 

14— Flank. 

15 — Plate piece. 

16 — Navel. 

17 — T>eg or shin. 

18 — Cross rib. 



69 



PRACTICAL COOKERY 




Fig. 2 
1 — First cut of ribs. 
2— Porterhouse steak or 

sirloin roast. 
v3 — Flat boned sirloin steak 
or roast. 
4a — Large sirloin. 
5a — Sirloin steaks or roasts. 
6 — Sirloin steaks or roasts. 



Hind Quarter. 

7 — Aitchbone. 

8 — Rumj) steaks or roasts 
(and 4b and 5b). 

9 — Round steak (and 12c). 
10 — Best part of vein. 
11 — Poorer part of vein. 
12— Leg of beef (d). 
13— Flank (e). 




Fig. 3. 

1 — First cut of ribs. 
2 — Second cut of ribs. 
3 — Third cut of ribs. 
4 — Best chuck ribs. 
5 — Best chuck ribs. 
6 — Poorer chuck ribs. 
7 — Poorer chuck ribs. 
8 — Neck piece. 



Fore Quarter. 

9 — Plate ])iece. 
10— Shoulder. 
11 — Shoulder. 
12 — Navel end of brisket. 
13 — Navel end of brisket. 
14 — Brisket. 
15— Shin. 



70 



PRACTICAL COOKERY 



BROILING UNDER GAS FLAME. 

Have broiling oven very hot. Prepare meat and place in 
greased double broiler or on rack in pan. Sear one side of 
the meat and then the other. Cook more slowly, turning oc- 
casionally. Season and serve. 

PAN BROILING. 

Have smooth frying pan hissing hot. Prepare meat, rub a 
little fat over bottom of pan and put in meat. Sear both sides, 
then allow to cook more slowly. When done, season and 
serve. Drain ofif the fat as it cooks out of the meat and use 
for brown gravy. 

GENERAL DIRECTIONS FOR ROASTING. 

Wipe meat, trim and skewer into shape. Dredge all meat 
except beef with salt, pepper and flour. Place on rack in drip- 
ping pan in hot oven. 

When the meat is brown, cover bottom of pan with hot 
water, reduce the heat and cook more slowly. 

TIME-TABLE FOR BROILING. 

Steak, 1 inch thick, 7 to 10 minutes. 
Steak, 1^ inches thick, 10 to 15 minutes. 
Mutton chops, 7 to 10 minutes. 
Spring chicken, 20 minutes. 
Fish, 15 to 20 minutes. 

TIME-TABLE FOR ROASTING. 

(Per Pound.) 
Beef ribs (rare), 8 to 10 minutes. 
Beef ribs (well done), 12 to 15 minutes. 
Beef, round, 12 to 15 minutes 
Mutton, leg (rare), 10 minutes> 
Mutton, leg (well done), 15 minutes. 
Mutton, loin (rare), 8 minutes. 
Mutton, shoulder, stuffed, 15 minutes. 
Lamb (well done), 18 to 20 minutes. 
Veal (well done), 20 minutes. 
Pork (well done), 30 minutes. 
Chicken, 15 minutes. 
Goose, 18 minutes. 
Eight-pound turkey, 1^ hours. 
Large turkey, 3 hours. 

COOKING OF TOUGH MEATS. 

The toughness of a piece of meat depends on the amount 
and quality of the connective tissue, and therefore the meat 
from the parts of the animal where the muscles are not used 



PRACTICAL COOKERY 



very much is more tender than from the parts which are exer- 
cised a great deal. Exercise also draws a large quantity of 
blood to the muscles, consequently tough muscles contain 
more juice than the other muscles. 

In order to soften and dissolve the connective tissue, tough 
cuts of meat must be cooked in moist heat. There are three 
ways of doing this — stewing, boiling and braising. 

By boiling is meant to plunge the meat into boiling water. 
Cook at this temperature 10 to 15 minutes. And then simmer 
until the meat is tender. By this means much of the juice 
and flavor is kept in the meat. Braising is the cooking of 
meat with a small amount of water, in the oven, in a tightly 
covered pan. Cuts not tender enough for roasting, but of 
better quality than those used for stews, are cooked in this 
way. 

The purpose of stewing meat is to keep part of the juice 
in the meat, and to extract part to flavor the gravy, so some 
of the meat is put on in cold water and the remainder is 
browned in the frying pan before adding. Meat for stews 
should contain some bone and fat. The bone makes the stew 
gelatinous and the fat gives the desired richness. 

BEEF STEW. 

2 lbs. beef from leg or flank. 
1 onion, cut in slices. 
1 carrot, cut in dice. 

1 c. turnip, cut in dice. 

2 c. potatoes, cut in dice. 

1 green pepper, cut very small. 

2 tbsp. salt. 

Yz tsp. pepper. 

3 tbsp. flour. 

4 c. water. 

Remove the fat and cut the meat into one-inch pieces ; put 
aside one-half cup of the best pieces of meat; put the rest of 
the meat and the bones in cold water and soak for one hour. 
Then heat until it bubbles. Season the half cup of meat and 
roll it in flour. Melt the fat in a frying pan, remove the 
scraps, brown the sliced onion and then the floured meat in 
the hot fat ; add both to the stew and cook for two hours at 
the simmering point. Add the vegetables and flour, which 
have been mixed with one-half cup cold water, and cook one 
hour or until the meat and vegetables are tender. Remove 
the bone. Season and serve. 

72 



PRACTICAL COOKERY 



CASSEROLE OF BEEF. 

\y2 lb. beef (from round or rump). 

^ c. carrots, diced. 

y^ c. potatoes, diced. 

•)4 c. turnips, diced. 

1 onion, cut fine. 

3 c. boiling water. 

1 c. tomato juice. 
3 tbsp. flour. 

2 tbsp. bacon fat or butter. 
\y2 tbsp. salt. 

3/4 tsp. pepper. 

A few celery seeds. 

Slice of lemon. 

Spk. grated nutmeg. 

Cut beef in cubes, put in hot frying pan and brown on both 
sides, taking care not to burn them. Place in hot casserole. Put 
the fat in frying pan; when melted, add vegetables. Sprinkle 
flour and seasoning over vegetables, mix all well together, then 
turn into the casserole. Pour water and tomato juice in frying 
pan. let come to boiling point, then pour into the casserole; mix 
all together. Place cover on securely and bake iri a moderate 
oven two hours. Do not lift the cover during the process of 
cooking. 

BEEF LOAF. 
(Mrs. C. N. Stevens.) 

1 lb. beef (any cheap cut will do). 

1 lb. pork. 

1 onion. 

3/2 grated nutmeg. 
1/2 lemon (juice). 
^ c. bread crumbs. 

2 tsp. salt. 

^ tsp. pepper. 

2 tbsp. melted butter. 

Chop onion very fine, beat &gg slightly, then mix all well 
together and pack in a baking dish. Bake two hours. It is 
well to bake it part of the time covered. It may be served 
with a gravy made from the drippings in the pan or a tomato 
sauce ; horseradish sauce is also good served with it. This 
loaf is also good served cold. 

CHARTREUSE OF RICE AND MEAT. 

Boil one cup of rice until tender. Chop fine one pint of 
meat, season with salt and pepper to taste ; one teaspoon of 

73 



PRACTICAL COOKERY 



onion juice, one teaspoon of minced parsley and add beaten 
egg, two tablespoons of crumbs and moisten with enough 
water or stock to mold easily. Butter a mold, line bottom 
and sides with rice about three-fourths inch deep, fill in the 
meat, cover closely with rice and steam for about 45 min- 
utes. Turn onto a platter, garnish with parsley, if desired, and 
pcAir tomato or brown sauce over it. 

CORN BEEF HASH. 

Drop the corn beef into boiling water and simmer, allow- 
ing 30 minutes to the pound. When cold, chop rather coarse. 
Chop cold cuoked potatoes coarse, also Dry bread may be 
used instead of part of the potatoes, and improves hash. 

4 c. meat. 

4 c. potatoes. 

4 tbsp. butter. 

2 tsp. salt. 

14 tsp. pepper. 

1 c. milk. 

Butter the bottom of a skillet ; put in it the mixture of 
meat and potato. Over the top put seasoning and butter. 
Add the milk and put the skillet in the oven. Let it remain 
there half an hour, stirring every ten minutes. If browned 
hash is desired, reserve half of the butter, and after the second 
stirring melt the butter in a frying pan ; put the mixture into 
it and cook on the top of the stove, without stirring, until 
brown underneath. Fold and serve. This will be greatly 
improved by the addition of a green pepper, chopped fine. 
COTTAGE PIE. 

Cover bottom of a small greased baking dish with hot 
mashed potato, add a thick layer of roast beef, chopped or cut 
in small pieces (seasoned with salt, pepper, and a few drops 
of onion juice) and moistened with some of the gravy; cover 
with a thin layer of mashed potato, and bake in a hot oven 
long enough to heat through. 

HASH ON TOAST. 

6 slices of toast. 

Toast points. 

1 c. cooked potato, cut in dice. 

2 c. meat, cut in dice. 

]/{ tsp. Worcestershire sauce. 

2 tbsp. butter. 

2 tbsp. flour. 

y2 tsp. salt. 

Pepper. 

74 



PRACTICAL COOKERY 



2 c. stock or water. 

Make a brown sauce, heat the meat and potatoes in it, 
and serve on the toast. Garnish with parsley and toast points. 
SWISS STEAK. 

Select a slice of round steak, cut about two inches thick. 
Into the steak pound as much flour as it will hold on both sides. 
It takes at least a cup of flour. Then brown well in hot bacon 
or salt pork, fat on both sides, then cover with hot water and 
let stew about one and a half or two hours. Cut a number 
of onions fine and add these, also parsley, salt and pepper. 
Add more water as needed and, if necessary, thicken the g^rav}' a 
little when ready to serve. 

SPANISH STEAK. 

Round steak, weighing two pounds, cut two inches thick ; 
rub the night before with olive oil and lemon juice. Brown 
well in very hot frying pan, on both sides. Cover with one 
onion sliced thin, pour over one can of tomatoes and add three 
tablespoons of bacon fat or butter, season with salt and pep- 
per, cover securely and cook on top of stove very slowly 
from two to three hours. When done, the meat should have ab- 
sorbed most of the juices. Serve whole, using the good juices in 
frying pan for gravy. 

MOCK DUCK. 

2 c. soft bread crumbs. 

^ c. butter. 

2 tbsp. chopped parsley. 

2 tbsp. chopped celery. 

34 tsp. pepper. 

1 tsp. salt. 

Mix ingredients together thoroughly and moisten with 
hot water. Two pounds beef (round or flank), pound on bis- 
cuit board. Spread dressing on meat, roll and bake for two 
hours in slow oven, basting frequently. 

PIGS IN BLANKETS. 

One and one-half pounds of lean beef (any cheap cut, but 
preferably the round), cut in pieces three "by four inches, 
sprinkle with salt and pepper. Cover one side with finely 
minced onion, add one piece of bacon, then roll and fasten 
together securely with tooth picks or tie with cord Brown 
in a very hot frying pan, in which has been melted a little 
lard or bacon fat ; then pour in boiling water till it about 
covers the meat. Cover the frying pan and cook slowly about 
two hours; when meat is 'tender, thicken gravy with a little 
flour. 



PRACTICAL COOKERY 



HAMBURG STEAK. 

One ])ouiul of lean meat (any cheap cut will do) ; have it 
put through the meat grinder once. Season with salt, pepper, 
a little nutmeg, and one tablespoon of lemon juice; form 
into round, flat cakes, and brown quickly in hot frying pan. 
When brown, put them in a paper bag. Peel ten medium 
size onions, add four tablespoons of fat in pan in which the 
meat was browned, then add the onions and brown them 
(juickly. Season with salt and pepper, then pour in paper 
bag on top of meat and cook in moderate oven about half 
an hour. 

SMOTHERED BEEF, OR POT ROAST. 

Four to six pounds from the rump, the vein or the round. 
Wipe with a clean, wet cloth. Sear all over by placing in 
a hot frying pan and turning till all the surface is browned. 
Put in a kettle with one cup of water, and place it where it 
will keep just below the boiling point. Do not let the water 
boil entirely away, but add only enough to keep the meat 
from burning. Have the cover fitting closely to keep the 
steam in. Cook until very tender, but do not let it break 
Serve hot or cold. 

The best method of cooking this roast is either in an old- 
fashioned iron vessel or in a large casserole, in which case it 
can be cooked in the oven instead of on top of stove. The 
addition of one onion will greatlv improve the flavor. 
MEAT SOUFFLE. 

2 tbsp. butter. 

2 tbsp. flour. 

2 c. milk. 

2 c. ground meat (any kind, or a combination of differ- 
ent kinds). 

^ c. fresh bread crumbs. 

3 eggs. 

2 tsp. salt. 

% tsp. pepper. 

1 tsp. chopped parsley. 

% tsp. celery salt. 

Melt butter, add flour, then milk, and cook till thick, add 
bread crumbs. Remove from fire and add slowly the beaten 
yolk of eggs, then add all the seasoning and the meat. Set 
aside till cool, then fold in the beaten whites of eggs. Pour 
into a deep buttered bakino- dish and bake in a nuKlerate oven 
foi thirtv minutes. Serve hot. 



PRACTICAL COOKERY 



ROAST BEEF. 

The choicest pieces for roasting- are from the rump and 
the loin. The first five ribs in the fore-quarter are also 
roasted ; the first two ribs make a very good roast, partic- 
ularly when the beef is of first quality. The chuck ribs are 
often roasted, but unless the meat is much better than the 
average, it is likely to prove unsatisfactory. The tenderloin 
is often removed whole (or divided, when the rump is sep- 
arated from the loin) and cooked as a roast. Being dry and 
without flavor, it is usually larded and served with a rich, 
high-flavored sauce. 

Let the meat to be roasted, skewered, or tied in a com- 
pact form, rest on a rack in a dripping-pan, skin side down ; 
dredge with flour and sear over the outside in a hot oven, 
then add salt and pepper and drippings and cook at a low 
temperature until done basting: the melted fat in the pan over the 
n-'cat, everv ten minute?. After a time turn the roast, to brown 
the skin side. When properly cooked, the outside fat is cris]) and 
rolled. 

FILLET OF BEEF, ROASTED. 
(Mrs. Hill.) 

The fillet of beef is taken from underneath that part of the 
backbone, wdiich is included in the lower part of the sirloin 
and the rump. Ordinarily it is cut as a part of the steaks or 
roasts in these joints, and when removed whole for a fillet 
these steaks or roasts are less desirable by so much. The part 
under the rump is called the short fillet, that under the sir- 
loin the long fillet. When the whole fillet is needed, it should 
be cut out before the division into loin and rump has been 
made. If this is not done, the two pieces need be skewered 
together. The whole fillet sells for 75 cents to one dollar per 
pound; the sh(~»rt fillet (from the rump) at about 35 cents per 
pound. The rump steaks are large, and the loss of the ten- 
derloin is not so apparent as it is in the sm:dler sirUnii 
steaks, hence the difiference in price. The rump fillet weighs 
about two pounds and a half and is an economical cut for 
occasional use. Tn dressing a fillet the sinewy covering on 
one side and the su])erfluous fat on the other are removed. 
It is then trimmed into shape and the thin end folded under. 
This leaves nothing but fine-grained, tender meat. Being 
destitute of flavor, this must be added in the cooking. Larcl 
the whole up])er surface with salt-pork dredge witli flour and 
brown, the lean beneath is browned to the depth of one-fourth an 
inch and the whole interior is evenly red and juicw Ribs are 
roasted just as they are cut, as a "standing roast," or boned and 



PRACTICAL COOKERY 



bake half an hour. Baste frequently. The oven must be very- 
hot at first. Serve with brown mushroom sauce, or gravy 
made from drippings in pan. The fillet when served may be 
surrounded with vegetables cut in fancy shapes. 
MUSHROOM SAUCE. 

Drippings from fillet of beef. 

2 tbsp. butter. 

4 tbsp. flour. 

1 pt. stock. 

1 pt. cooked mushrooms. 

1 tsp. Worcestershire sauce. 

Salt and pepper. 

Heat the butter and drippings until brown. Add the flour 
and then the stock gradually. Strain, add the mushrooms. 
Cook five minutes, add the Worcestershire sauce and salt 
and pepper to taste. 

GENERAL DIRECTIONS FOR MAKING 
SOUP-STOCKS. 

Soups are very nutritious, and if made in the proper way 
are very economical, as they are the means of saving and uti- 
lizing a great many remnants of left-overs that would be unfit 
for any other dish: 

Soup stock is the basis of all meat soups. It consists of 
the soluble parts of the meat, vegetables and bone dissolved 
in water. Soups are divided into two classes, soups with 
stock, and soups without stock. 

When meat for soup comes from the market, remove from 
the brown paper and wipe all over with a clean, damp cloth. 
Cut the lean meat into small pieces. By so doing, a large 
amount of surface is exposed to the water, and juices are 
more easily drawn out. Put bone, meat and fat into a clean 
soup kettle, and add as many quarts of cold water as there 
are pounds of meat and bone. Let stand one hour, that the 
water mav draw the juice from the meat. Heat gradually 
to the boiling point, then lower the heat, and cook slowlv 
from six to seven hours. A scum will rise on the top, which 
contains coagulated albuminous juices. These give to the 
soup its chief nutritive \alue, and shouM not be removed. 
A^egetables and spices should be added the last hour of cook- 
ing. 

A knuckle of veal is often added, which gi\es the stock 
when cold a jelly-like consistency. Some of the fat is ab- 
sorbed. The remainder rises to the top and forms, when 
cold, an air-tight covering over the stock, and should not be 
removed until the stock is done. 



PRACTICAL COOKERY 



From this stock may be made macaroni, noodle, vegeta- 
ble or tapioca soups, by adding just before serving, the boiled 
vegetables indicated by the name. 

Have all the trimmings sent home with the meat. 

Either kitchen bouquet or caramel is used to darken soups. 

The kettle should be closely covered to keep in the steam 
and sa\ ory odors, 

Stock made without vegetables keeps best in hot weather. 
It is better to use the stock the day after it is made. 

VEAL. 

1. Veal is obtained from a young calf when about six to 
eight months old. 

2. Veal contains smaller percentage of fat than beef, and 
is less nutritious. 

3. Veal is divided in the same manner as beef, into fore 
and hind quarters. 

4. Fore-quarter is subdivided in breast, shoulder and 
neck. 

5. Hind-quarter is subdivided into loin, leg and knuckle. 

6. Good veal may be known by its pinkish colored flesh 
and white fat; it is obtained throughout the year, but the 
best season is during the spring. 

7. Veal should always be thoroughly cooked. 

VEAL CUTLETS. 

Cut veal from leg. about one inch thick, free from skin 
and bones, season with salt and pepper, roll into beaten egg, 
then into tine bread crumbs, and saute to a golden brown in 
bacon fat or half lard and butter. This must be cooked with 
care, or the outer covering will burn before meat is thor- 
oughly cooked. Serve with maitre d' hotel butter or tomato 
or mushroom sauce. 

ROAST VEAL. 
The loin, l^reast and fillet (a thick piece from the upper 
pirt of the leg) are the best pieces for roasting. The bone 
shou'd be removed from the fillet, and the cavity filled with 
a highly seasoned and very moist stuffing. Tie or skewer 
into a round shape. Dredge with salt, pepper and flour. Put 
stri])s of pork over the top and bake. Allow half an hour to 
a pound. Cover with a buttered paper to keep the meat from 
burning. Add water, when the flour ha,^ browned, and baste 
often. Serve with horseradish or tomato sauce. 

VEAL STEW OR FRICASSEE. 

The ends of the ribs, the neck and the knuckle may be 



79 



PRACTICAL COOKERY 



utilized in a stew. Cut the meat, two pounds in small pieces, 
and remove all the fine bones. Cover the meat with boiling 
water; skim as it begins to boil; add two small onions, two 
teaspoonfuls of salt, and one saltspoonful of pepper. Simmer 
until thoroughly tender. Cut four potatoes in halves ; soak 
in cold water and parboil them five minutes ; add them to 
the stew. Add one tablespoonful of flour wet in cold water, 
and more seasoning, if desired; and just before serving add 
one cup of cream, or if milk be used, add one tablespoonful 
of butter. Remove the bones before serving. To make veal 
potpie, add dumplings. If intended for a fricassee, fry the 
veal in salt pork fat before stewing, and omit the potatoes. 

DUMPLINGS 
That May be Used for Veal, Lamb or Beef Stews. 

1 c. flour. 

1 tsp. baking powder. 

Yi tsp. salt. 

Yi. c. milk. 

1 beaten ^%g. 

Beat ^^^, add milk, "sift dry ingredients together; add tc 
milk and ^^^. Stir well together. Drop from a spoon into 
the hot meat broth, place cover over vessel, and allow to boil 
for ten minutes. Serve as soon as cooked. 

VEAL LOAF. 

2 lbs. of lean veal. 

1 lb. of pickled pork. 

3 hard boiled eggs. 
3 cloves. 

y-2. of an onion. 

1 bay leaf. 

34 tsp. celery seeds. 

y^ tsp. pepper. 

Yi, tsp. salt (add more if needed). 

Cook veal and pork, and all the seasoning together until 
tender; chop meat in chopping bowl rather coarsely, return 
to the liquor in which it was cooked. There should be about 
one and one-half cups. Reheat, place half of the meat in a 
small narrow pan, then lay the eggs in whole, lengthwise 
in center of pan. Pour over the rest of the meat, allow to 
stand 24 hours before using. When this loaf is sliced there 
will be a slice of ^^^ in center of each piece. 

VEAL PIE. 

One pound veal from shoulder or leg. Wash and cut into 
small pieces. Cover with cold water, let come to boiling point, 



PRACTICAL COOKERY 



skim ofif the impurities as they rise to the top. Add one carrot, 
cut in small pieces, and one small onion, and simmer until tender. 
Then thicken stock with a little flour moistened in cold water; 
add salt, pepper and one tablespoonful chopped parsley. If de- 
sired, mushroom.-^ or diced potatoes may be added. Cover with a 
g-ood crust. 

VEAL CROQUETTES (or chicken). 

3 tbsp. butter. 

3 tbsp. flour. 

1 c. milk. 

2 tsp. salt. 

y^. tsp. white pepper. 
Yz tsp. celery salt. 
1 tsp. lemon juice. 

1 tsp. parsley. 
Yz grated onion. 

2 c. chopped veal or chicken. 

Make cream sauce, then add all the seasoning, then the 
meat ; spread onto a platter to cool for several hours. Then 
shape in form of croquettes, roll in fine, dry crumbs; then 
add beaten tgg, and last, the dry crumbs ; fry in deep fa^" 
Serve on a bed of peas and parsley. 

METHOD OF COOKING IN DEEP FAT. 

The fat used for cooking may be olive oil, beef drippings 
lard, or a mixture of several fats. 

The food must be covered with crumbs and tgg, or a bat- 
ter, to keep it from absorbing fat. 

Place the articles to be cooked in a bath of the fat, deep 
enough to float them. The kettle should be of iron ; a frying 
basket may be used. 

Foods already cooked, or needing little cooking, require 
a higher temperature than batters. The temperature of the 
fat for oysters, croquettes, fish balls, etc., may be tested by 
browning a cube of bread while counting forty. Counting 
sixty while the bread browns gives the right temperature for 
all batters. 

All the articles cooked must be drained on unglazed brown 
paper. 

When one quantity of food has been taken from the fat. 
it must be reheated and tested before adding a second set. 

In the absence of a frying basket, a wire spoon may be used 
to remove the food from the fat. 

Fat which has been used for frying, should be cooled and 
clarified by cooking a few slices of raw potato in it for 10 
minutes ; strain through muslin and, when cold, cover. Fat 



PRACTICAL COOKERY 



may be used several times for frying and then may be mad< 
into soap. 

SWEETBREAD PATTIES. 
1 pr. sweetbreads. 

1 tbsp. butter. 

2 tbsp. flour. . ■ . ■ 
54tsp. salt. 

White pepper. 
Cayenne. 

1 c. cream. 

Five large mushrooms, or half as many canned mush- 
rooms as there are sweetbreads. 

Sweetbreads spoil very quickly. Remove from paper at 
once, soak in cold water 10 minutes, and parboil 15 minutes. 
Add salt five minutes before they are done. F'ut them in cold 
water for 15 minutes, then remove the tough portions. Cut 
the sweetbreads into small pieces and chop the mushrooms 
fine. Make a white sauce of the butter, flour, seasoning and 
cream. Add the sweetbreads and the mushrooms, and when 
hot, serve in patty dishes or timbales. If desired, the mush- 
rooms may be omitted and twice as many sweetbreads used. 
CALVES' LIVER AND BACON. 

Cover with cold water slices of liver cut one-half inch 
thick, let stand five minutes; drain, wipe and remove the thin 
outside skin and veins. Sprinkle with salt and pepper, dredge 
with flour, and fry in bacon fat. Serve with bacon. 
BLANQUETTE OF VEAL. 

2 tbsp. butter. 
1 c. stock. 
Yolks of 2 eggs. 

1 tbsp. chopped parsley. 

2 tbsp. flour. 

1 c. cream or milk. 

12 button mushrooms. 
Salt and pepper to taste. 

2 c. finely-chopped cooked veal. 

Melt the butter without browning, add the flour and stir 
until smooth. Add the liquid, and when the sauce begins 
to thicken, add the meat and the mushrooms cut in pieces. 
Stir until the sauce thickens, and when ready to serve, add 
the yolks of the eggs beaten light, and the parsley. Stir the 
eggs gently into the sauce, cooking for one minute only Long 
standing, or too long cooking, cooks the eggs too much so 
they separate from the sauce. The blanquette may be gar- 



PRACTICAL COOKERY 



nished with whole mushrooms which have been heated in 
their own liquor. 

The above recipe may be used for making veal patties or 
the filling of bouche cases. In that case, they would be 
more delicious if part sweetbreads were used with the 
chopped veal. 

FRICASSEE OF VEAL. 
(Mrs. Hill.) 

Blanch in boiling salted water two and a half pounds of 
lean veal, then cut it into two-inch pieces or cubes and place 
them in a casserole. Add enough white sauce to well cover 
the meat. Season carefully with salt, pepper, red pepper and 
a grating of nutmeg; add one bay leaf, a blade of mace and 
three slices of lemon ; then slice ten mushrooms and add them. 
Cover and simmer slowly for 50 minutes, stirring occasion- 
ally and adding two tablespoonfuls of cream when the meat 
is cooked tender. One or two yolks of eggs beaten up with 
a little milk or cream may also be added at this stage. Re- 
heat thoroughly, but do not allow the fricassee to boil again 
after the eggs are added. Remove the bay leaf, blade of mace 
and slices of lemon before serving. 

SWEETBREADS AND MUSHROOM CUTLETS. 

Boil one pair of sweetbreads in salted water till tender, 
remove, dip in ice water and take oflf skins and gristly fibers. 
When cold, cut in dice. 

Yz can mushrooms (diced). 

2 tbps. butter. 

2 tbsp. flour. 

1 c. milk. 

1 c. soft bread crumbs. 
Yz grated onion. 

1 tbsp. lemon juice. 

2 tsp. salt. 

yi tsp. pepper and spk. paprika. 

Melt butter, add flour and milk and cook until thick ; re- 
move from fire, add crumbs and the ^^% slightly beaten, then 
the mushrooms and sweetbreads. Return to fire and cook 
for a few seconds. Then pour onto a platter and allow to cool 
for several hours. Shape in form of cutlets, roll in bread 
crumbs and beaten ^g^ and fry in deep fat ; drain on brown 
paper. Serve with peas and tartar sauce. (If the mixture 
seems too thin, more crumbs may be added ; it should be of the 
same consistency as croquette mixtures ) 



PRACTICAL COOKERY 



LAMB AND MUTTON. 

1. Laml) comes from a young sheep about one year old; 
spring lamb, from six weeks to seven and eight months oUl. 

2. Sheep, between three and five years old, is sold as 
mutton. 

.V Tlie meat of the mutton should be tine-grained, a rich 
red and juicy; the fat, firm and white. 

4. The meat of the lamb should be pink and the fat white 
and delicate. 

.^. I. ami) and nuitton arc divided into leg, linn, shoulder, 
nc-ck nnd Hank. 

(). A very young lamb is simply divided into fore and hind 
([uartcrs. 

LAMB STEW. 

Hri'ast ol land). 1 >i. lbs. 

Boiling water, about 1 ])int. 

Potatoes, 4. medium-sized, (juartcrcd and parboiled. 

Onion, 1, about lJ/> inches in diameter, sliced. 

Rice, 2 tablespoonfuls. 

Toiuato, strained. 1 cupful, or tomato cit^up. 1 tablrspoonful. 

vSalt and pepper. 

Brown the onions in a little of the fat in a saucepan ; put 
with them the meat cut roughly into cube-shaped pieces 
about one and t)ne-half inches thick, and sprinkled with salt 
and pepper. (^)ver them with boiling water; heat this to 
the boiling point again, then let it simmer directly over the 
heat for two hours; or cook it over hot water for three hours, 
or until the meat is tender. After one hour of simmering, 
add the rice; half an hour before dishing the stew add 
the potat(H\s; when they are done, remove the bones and 
pieces of f.it, stir in the tomato or catsup, add salt and pepper, 
if needed, and serve. 

BRAISED LAMB. 
(Mrs. M. C. Crawley.) 
Two pounds of lamb from shoulder, cut in three-inch 
pieces, trim and wipe carefully; di]) in beaten egg and bread 
crund)s. Season with salt and pepper. I^lace meat in an iron 
skillet and put in a very hot oven for about ten minutes, then 
cover meat with boiling water. Bake in a slow oven for 
three hours. The water must be renewed and all the pieces 
of meat turned over. \\'hen done, the meat should be a nice 
brown, and the gravy will be lovely and rich. 

If this is carefullx done, it will be as good as chicken, and 
cost far less. 



PRACTICAL COOKERY 



LEG OF MUTTON. STUFFED AND ROASTED. 

Remove the bone ; wipe inside and out with a wet cloth ; 
sprinkle the inside with salt ; stuff and sew. Put it on a rack 
in a dripping pan, with some of the kidney suet. Dredge with 
salt, pepper and flour, and bake in a hot oven. Baste as soon 
as the flour is brown, and baste often. Bake two hours. 

Stuffing: One cup of stale bread crumbs. Season with 
one saltspoonful each, of salt, pepper, thyme or marjoram, 
and moisten with a quarter of a cut of melted butter. Add 
hot water, if a moist stuffing is desired. 

The bone may be left in the leg, in which case the stuf- 
fing would be omitted. Serve with mint sauce or caper sauce. 
CURRY OF MUTTON. 

Fry one large onion, cut fine, in one heaping tablespoon- 
ful of butter. Mix one tablespoonful of curry powder and 
one teaspoonful of salt, and stir it into the butter and onion. Add 
gradually one pint of hot water or stock. Cut two pounds of lean 
nuitton into small pieces, and brown them in hot fat : add them to 
the sauce, and simmer until tender. Place the meat on a hot dish, 
and arrange a border of boiled rice around the meat. Slices of 
cold cooked mutton may be used instead of the fresh meat. Currv 
is prepared in the same manner. 

CROWN ROAST OF LAMB. 

A crown rt)ast is fashioned from one loin or the two loins 
sewed together. The bones must be trimmed the same as 
for French chops, removing the trimmings to make the meat 
on the chops of uniform height. When the ends of the loin 
are joined, a circle of crown meat is formed. The ends of 
the ribs should be the same length. Cover the ends of the 
bones with salt ])ork : this will keep them from burning, at 
the same time imjiroving the flavor of the meat. The center 
of the roast may be filled with bread stuiling or sausage meat, 
or mashed sweet potatoes and nuts. Another method is to 
place a cup in the cavity, and when roast is cooked the cup 
is removed and opening filled with peas. Set the roast in hot 
oven for 15 minutes, then reduce heat and bake for one hour. 
Baste frequently; a little boiling water added occasionallv 
will keep juices from burning. 

PORK. 

1. Pork is the flesh of the hog; the lean should be pink 
and the fat firm, clear and white. 

2. The very fat portions are salted. 

3. Hams are the hind legs, which are salted and .smoked. 

4. Bacon, the flank, salted and smoked. 



PRACTICAL COOKERY 



5. Ribs and loin, sold for roasting or as chops. 

6. The kichicy fat is rendered and purified and sold as 
leaf lard. 

ROAST PORK. 

The chine, or loin, and the spare ribs, are the best pieces 
for roasting-. Rub well with pe])per or sage, salt and flour, 
and bake 20 minutes for each pound. Baste often, and do 
not have the oven as hot as for other meat. 

FRIED CHOPS. 

Remove the meat from the l)one, then free from all par- 
ticles of fat, leaving the nice fdlet free from bone and fat. Fry 
tiie Int slowly in hot skillet. Dip the meat into beaten egg 
or milk, then into fine bread crumbs, and fry the meat in the 
.-;killcl, in which the fat was melted. Season with salt and 
pe])pcr and poultry seasoning. These must be well cooked, 
and not too rapidly. 

BOILED HAM. 

If very salt, let it soak over night. Scrub well, trim off 
the hard black jjart, cover with cold water, and let it simmer 
slowly, allowing half an hour to the pound. Take it from 
the fire; let it remain in the water until nearly cold, then 
peel off the .-^kin and sprinkle with sugar and bread crumbs ; 
I)rown in the oven. ( )r boil inUil nearlv tender, remove the skin 
and bake two hours; baste often with vinegru". 

HAM RELISH. 

1 cupful of cf)ld boiled ham, chopped fine. 

y2 cupful of cream. 

3 hard-boiled eggs. 

Salt and ])epper to taste. 

Scald the cream. Kub the yolks of two eggs smooth 
with a little of the cream ; add to the cream, in the farina 
boiler with the ham. Press the whites of the two eggs 
through a sieve, add to the mixture and, when thoroughly 
heated, put on a hot dish. Slice the remaining ^^^ over the 
ham and ser\ e. 

BAKED SPARE RIBS. 

Two sets of spare ribs; sew the two sides and one end 
securely, fill space in between with good bread stufifing. Sew 
ui) tight and bake for one hour, turning it over so that both 
sides will brown well. Raste often. 

FRIED HAM. 

Cut the ham in thin slices, remove the outside, gash the 



PRACTICAL COOKERY 



fat and cook in a fryinj;- ])an till the fat is crisp. If cooked 
too loni^, it will become hard and dry. 

BROILED HAM. 

Cut in \erv thin slices and broil three or four minutes. 
( )1(1 or very salt ham should be parboiled five minutes be- 
fore ])cin^- ])roilcd. .Scr\e with poached c.efs's. 

BAKED SLICE OF HAM. 

One slii'c of ham, one and one-half inch thick; cover with 
buttered bread crund)s. IMace in small bakin^^ dish. Cut 
\ery thin'\ one onion, and sj)read over meat. I'our over one 
cu]) of ricj' cream, and bake in moderate oven 50 minutes. 

BAKED PORK AND BEANS. 

.Soak one (|uart of pea beans in cold water over ni<:^ht. In 
the morniiij:;' ])Ut them into fresh cold water, and simmer till 
soft enouj2:h to pierce with a i)in, being careful not to let them 
boil enough to break. If you like, boil one onion with them. 
When soft, turn them into a colander, and pour cold water 
through them. Place them with the onion in a bean pot. 
Pour boiling \\atcr over one quarter of a pound of salt pork, 
]jart fat and part lean ; scrape the rind till white. Cut the 
rind in half-inch strijjs ; bury the pork in the beans, leaving 
only the rind exposed. Mix one teaspoonful of salt — more, 
if the pork is not very salt — and one teaspoonful of mustard 
with one quarter of a cup of molasses. Fill the cup with hot 
water, and when well mixed, pour it over the beans; add 
enough more water to cover them. Keep them covered with 
water and bake for eight hours. 

TO TRY OUT LARD. 

Cut the leaves into small i)ieces; renioxe all flesh and 
membrane; ])Ut a few pieces in a kettle on the back of the 
stove, and when they are heated through, put in the remain- 
der. Cook slowly until the scraps are crisp; strain through 
a tine cloth into tin ])ails or pans, and press that obtained 
from the scra])s into a separate pail. Never ])ut water with 
the leaves, as the object is to exi)el that which they already 
contain, and there is no danger of burning, if only a few pieces 
be put in at first, and the kettle be not (nor the hot fire. The 
kettle should not be covered until the scraps are cris]) ; the?! 
cover it, and if no steam condenses on the cover, the water 
is evaporated. 

.87 



PRACTICAL COOKERY 



CHAPTER XVI. 



POULTRY AND GAME. 

There is practically no difference between the flesh of 
fowls and that of other meat in regard to nutritious value. 
The flesh of fowl is rich in nitrogenous matter, but contains 
little fat, unless specially fattened for killing. 

The light meat from the breast is tender, ])ut poorer in 
fla\-or than the dark meat from the leg and second joint. 

Tlie breast meat is delicate, owing to the shortness of its 
muscle fibers. The toughness of the leg and second joints 
is due to the long fibers and the tendons running through it. 

SELECTION. 

1. The bird should be short and plump. 

2. The skin fairly smooth. 

3. Legs smooth. 

4. Toes pliable. 

5. End of breast bone should bend readily. 

6. Quantity of meat on breast bone. 

7. Should be fat. If convenient, use yellow skin fowls. Tlie 
flavor of the meat i*^ richer. 

CLEANING AND PREPARING. 

1. Poultry should not be sent to market in an undrawn 
condition. The animal, before it is killed, should go without 
food long enough to empty the crop. 

2. Dry method of removing feathers — plucking them 
from the dry bird. 

3. Wet method or scalding — plunging the bird into boil- 
ing water (there being sufficient water to cover the animal), 
allowing it to remain in the water for a few moments only. 
This last method is a quicker method, but not as good as the 
dry method, as the boiling water will injure the fine flavor. 
In buying ])o'ultry. the dry picked will sell for a few cents 
more a ])Ound. 

4. Spring chickens, from four months to a year old. are 
better for roasting, frying and broiling. The older fowls, 
which are cheaper, should be used for fricassees, stews, salads 
and pies. 

5. It is wise, before roasting or stewing a fowl, to re- 
move the tendons from the legs. There are seven in each leg. 

6. Remove all pin feathers. 

7. Singe by holding o\er gas flame or over burning paper. 



PRACTICAL COOKERY 



8. Wash well in several waters. Coarse corn meal will 
be a great help in cleaning- the skin. 

9. If the fowl is to be roasted, the wings should l)e folded 
under the back, so that they need not be removed in carving. 
Salt should be s])rinkled on the fowl. 

Poultry — Chickens, Turkeys, Tame Uuck;^. (ieese. 

Game — Quail, Partridge, Grouse. Wild Ducks and Geese. 
TO CUT A CHICKEN INTO PIECES. 

Cut off the leg and separate at the joint, into drumstick 
and second joint. Cut off the wing and remove the ti]) ; sep- 
arate wing at middle point. Remove leg and wing from other 
side. .Separate the wishbone, with the meat which is on it, 
from the breast; cut through the ribs on either side and sc])- 
aratc the breast from the back; cut the breast in half length- 
wise, and the back through the middle crosswise. The side 
bones may be cut apart lengthwise with a cleaver. There 
should l)e 12 pieces. The neck and tips of the wings may be 
cooked with the giblets, and used for making gravy. 

If the chicken is to be stewed, cover the pieces with boil- 
ing water, and cook at that tem])erature for 15 minutes. Then 
add one tablcspoonful salt, and cook at a low tem])erature 
until tender. Serve with a sauce. 

ROAST CHICKEN. 

Singe, clean, wash, stuff and truss a chicken. 

Place breast down on rack in drip])ing pan ; sprinkle with 
salt, and spread with two tablespoonfuls butter and two table- 
spoonfuls flour, rubbed together. Put in hot oven at first, 
then reduce heat. When fat and flour begin to brown, pour 
vine cup boiling water into the pan. IJa.ste everv 13 minutes, 
and turn the chicken, that it may brown evenly. A four-])oun(l 
chicken requires one and one-half hours. 

STUFFING. 

y^ c. or 2 oz. butter. 

1 c. bread or cracker crumbs. 

1 tsp. to tbs]). mixed herbs. 

'4 t"- boiling water. 

Salt and pepper. 

Melt butter, add crnnd)s, seasoning and water. 
GRAVY. 

I'"ur off li(|uid in wdiich chicken has been roasted. Re- 
turn to pan, four tablespoonfuls fat with foin- tal)lesi)oonfuls 
Hour; add two cups stock, in which giblets, neck and ti])s of 
wings have been cooked. Cook five minutes. Season with 
salt and pepper, then strain. 



PRACTICAL COOKERY 



FRICASSEED CHICKEN. 

A fowl may l)e used for this purpose. Remove pin feath- 
ers, singe, cut off oil gland. Take out crop and windpipe at 
neck. 

Cut off legs and wings, divide each into two parts. No- 
tice position of inner organs, removing heart, liver and giz- 
zard together, then take out lungs and kidneys, adhering to 
the back bone. Divide back, loosen shoulder blade, cut from 
wing joint to point of ribs and separate back from breast. 

Rinse quickly, cover with boiling water and cook till ten- 
der, then brown in hot fat and serve with hot gravy. Or 
brown first, then stew in the gravy until tender. 

The sauce may be made with water or strained tomato. 

Mushrooms or other vegetables may be added. 
ROAST TURKEY. 

Turkey should be cleaned and prepared for roasting in the 
same manner as chicken. 

DRESSING FOR TEN-POUND TURKEY. 

6 c. dried bread crumbs. 

j/4 c. chopped suet. 

I lb. of blanched and chopped chestnuts. 

y2 c. celery. 

ji tbsp. chopped parsley. 

1 onion, chopped fine. 

2 tbsp. salt. 

1 tsp. pepper. 

2 tbsp. sweet herbs. 

Enough boiling water to barely moisten it, so it will hold 
together. Fill turkey, then sew with heavy thread. Cover 
drumsticks with clean muslin to prevent them from drying 
out in cooking. Place turkey in baking pan, breast down ; 
bake in a moderate oven for two hours, basti'ig verv c^ften. 
It is a good plan to baste fowls with a thin mixture of flour 
and water; this helps to form a nice, brown crust on outside, 
and is a help in keeping in the juices and making the meat 
tender. 

GIBLET SAUCE. 

Cook giblets till tender, remove the toueh skins and chop 
fine. Take three tablespoonfuls of the turkey drippings and 
blend with three tablespoonfuls of flour. Carefully remove 
the rest of the fat from the dripping pan, after turkey is 
cooked, pour two cups water in the baking pan and let come 
t<i boiling point; then pour slowly into the flour mixture; 
cool till thick, then add "ildets and season to taste. 



PRACTICAL COOKERY 



FRIED CHICKEN. 

Separate a chicken into pieces, according to directions 
given ; for one chicken, take about half a cup of flour and mix 
with the flour one tablespoonful salt and a speck of pepper. 
Then cover each piece of chicken well with the flour. Put 
into an iron skillet three tablespoonfuls of lard and two of 
butter, when hot, add the pieces of chicken ; turn fire very 
low, cover the skillet and cook about one hour, turning the 
chicken once during the process of cooking. 

An old chicken may be prepared this way, bv frving it 
quickly for a few seconds, then placing the pieces in a hot 
casserole and pouring over it two cups of boiling water and 
cooking slowly in a moderate oven for one and one-half 
hours. (Mushrooms and peas mav be added if desired.) 
CHICKEN PIE. 

Cut an old fowl into pieces and cook verv slowly for sev- 
eral hours, until the meat will drop from the bones. Then re- 
move all the bones and skins. Thicken the chicken broth with 
enough flour, mixed in cold water, to make it the consistency 
of rich gravy (to mix flour and water together without hav- 
ing it lumpy, take same amount of water as flour and work 
into a smooth paste). Add meat to gravv. There shotikl 
be enough gravy to cover the meat well. ' Add two hard- 
boiled eggs, cut in slices, and two potatoes which have been 
parboiled and cut in dices. Season with salt and pepper and 
a little grated onion (or, if preferred, an onion may be boiled 
with the chicken). Pour into a deep baking dish and cover 
with rich crust. 

CRUST. 

lYi c. flour. 

Yz tsp. salt. 

2 tsp. baking powder. 

5 tbsp. lard. 

Enough milk to make a soft dough. 

Sift dry ingredients together, rub in the lard, then add 
milk. Mix well together, roll one inch thick, place on top of 
hot chicken, make hole in center of dough, for steam to es- 
cape, trim edges neatly, spread with melted butter and bake 
in hot o.ven. 



CHICKEN A LA KING. 

3 tbsp. butter. 

4 tbsp. flour. 

1 c. milk or cream. 
1 c. mushroom juice. 



PRACTICAL COOKERY 



2 tsp. salt. 

Ys tsp. pep])er. 

y2 can jMmentoes, cut in 1-inch squares. 

1 green pepper, cut fine. 

^ can mushrooms, cut in halves. 

2 c. chicken, cut in small pieces. 

Make a cream sauce of the first six ingredients, add pep- 
pers and mushrooms, cook slowly for about 10 minutes, then 
add chicken and serve on toast or in ])atty shells. This may 
be prepared in chafing dish. 



92 



PRACTICAL COOKERY 



CHAPTER XVII. 



FISH. 

In reg-ard to its nutritive value, fish compares favorably 
with meat, being rich in nitrogenous compounds, but it is de- 
ficient in fat, excepting such fish as salmon and sturgeon. 

As ordinarily used, the term fish includes, besides the 
backbone fish, many other forms of sea food, such as ovsters, 
clams, lobsters, shrimp, crabs and turtles. 

The backbone forms of fish are divided into fresh and salt 
water fish. 

Fish is not considered a well-balanced food, because it is 
deficient in fat and- carbohydrates, and therefore it should be 
combined with other food materials to substitute what is 
lacking in the fish. It is rather alkaline in flavor, and it is 
usually served with a tart substance. 

Fish deteriorates quickly on the market. Salt water fish is 
considered the best. 

Fresh water fish should be taken from cold, clear water. 
That which comes from shallow, dirty water is inferior in flavor. 

Appearance on market — Skin and flesh should never be 
torn, nor beads removed before preparation for cooking. 

The fish should be firm, the eyes clear, and the gills 
bright. 

Usually, fish with long, narrow bodies have a large num- 
ber of bones. The thicker, shorter bodies have fewer bones. 

Preparation for cooking— To scale, start at the tail, scaling 
at right angle with the scales. 

If prepared for roasting, the head, tail and fins mav be 
left on, but the eyes should always be removed. 

The muscle fibers in fish are 'in flakes instead of bundles, 
as found in flesh of other animals. 

The protein in fish is largely in form of gelatine. There- 
fore, great care should be exercised in the cooking, in order 
not to dissolve the gelatine. 

SALT WATER FISH. 
Cod. 

Haddock. 
Mackerel. 
Blue Fish. 
Striped Bass. 
Halibut. 
Smelts. 



PRACTICAL COOKERY 



FRESH WATER FISH. 

White Fish. 
Perch. 
Black Bass. 
FOUND IN BOTH SALT AND FRESH WATER. 

Salmon. 

Shad. 

Caviar — the roe of the sturgeon. 

Anchovy — small sea fish, found on south coast of France. 

Mollusks, or soft-bodied animals, such as oysters, clams, 
scollops, are found in salt water. The shells are built up 
of mineral matter. 

The oyster has neither head nor limbs, but has a strong 
mouth near the hinge end of its shell and two strong mus- 
sels, one to open the shell to take in food, and the other to 
close it. 

Oysters grow crowded together, forming oyster beds. The 
east coast oysters are superior to the gulf coast oysters. 

The green coloring in the oyster liver is due to the feed- 
ing of the oyster on certain sea weeds. Frequently they are 
not fed the proper kind of sea food, but are given a certain 
preparation treated with copper to give them the proper col- 
oring. 

Crustaceans, such as lobsters, crabs, shrimp, are animals 
consisting of jointed sections, each of which is covered with 
a hard shell. The flesh in composition is similar to that of 
other fish. 

When to obtain the different fish : 
JANUARY. 

Cod, Haddock, Black Bass, White Perch, Spotted Trout, 
Nova Scotia Herring, Smelts, Spanish Mackerel, Halibut, 
Sunfish, Salmon, Pike. 

FEBRUARY. 

Cod, Haddock, Halibut, Spotted Trout, White Perch, Her- 
ring. Smelts, Shad, Black Bass. Pike, Salmon, Flounders. 

MARCH. 

Cod, Haddock, Halibut, Smelts, White Perch, Herring, 
Shad, Spotted Trout, Salmon, Black Bass, Flounders, White 
Catfish, Red Catfish, Green Pike. 

APRIL. 

Cod, Haddock, Halibut, Shad, White Perch, Yellow 
Perch, White and Red Catfish, Flounders, Salmon, Bluefish, 
Delaware Herring, Sturgeon, Porgy, Butterfish. 



PRACTICAL COOKERY 



MAY. 

Shad, Delaware Herring, Cod, Haddock, White Perch, 
Yellow Perch, Bluefish Sturgeon, Porgie, Flounders, Red 
and White Catfish, Halibut, Salmon, Spanish Mackerel, But- 
terfish. 

JUNE. 

Same as May, with addition of Sea Bass, Blackfish. 

JULY. 

Same as June, but no Shad or Delaware Herring. 

AUGUST. 

Same as July, but no Sturgeon. 

SEPTEMBER. 

Same as August, with addition of Round Mackerel, White- 
fish. 

OCTOBER. 

Same as September. 

NOVEMBER. 

Same as October, but no Porgies or Blackfish. 
DECEMBER. 

Same as November, with addition of Blue Pike, Spotted 
Drum. 

Fish must be perfectly fresh, and should be kept in a cold 
place until cooked. 

Do not put in refrigerator on account of odor. The flesh 
should be firm and the eyes bright. 

The inside and the outside of the fish should be thor- 
oughly cleansed with a cloth wet with salt water. The head 
and tail may be removed. Dry fish need butter rubbed over 
them before broiling. 

When fish is cooked the flesh separates from the bone. It 
should be served hot, with a sauce, or garnish with lemon, 
hard-boiled eggs or parsley. 

Cold cooked fish may be used in various ways, as 
creamed, scalloped, etc. 

BROILED FISH. 

Sear the flesh side first, then turn every ten seconds. The 
length of time for cooking depends on the thickness of the 
fish. Season with butter, salt and pepper, and garnish. 
BAKED FISH. 

Sprinkle the fish with salt and fill with stuffing, sew or 
skewer the edges together. Cut gashes on each side across 
the fish and put stri])s of salt pork into them. Grease the bak- 

95 



PRACTICAL COOKERY 



ing sheet and place the fish on it, dredge with Hour, salt and 
pepper, put the sheet into a baking pan with pieces of pork 
fat. Baste every ten minutes. Serve with a sauce. 
FISH COOKED IN WATER. 

Steam fish over gently boiling water, or place it in a piece 
of muslin, sew or tie the edges together and put the fish into 
boiling water; boil five minutes, then add one tablespoonful 
salt, and cook at a lower temperature until done. Serve with 
a sauce. 

FISH COOKED IN FAT. 

Season with salt and pepper and cover with equal amounts 
of corn meal and flour, or crumb., and egg. Cook in deep fat 
or saute. Drain on paper. 

STUFFING FOR FISH. 

2 c. bread crumbs. 

Yi t.sp. salt. 

y^ tsp. white pepper. 

Cayenne. 

1 tsp. onion juice. 

1 tsp. cho])ped parsley. 

1 tsp. capers or chopped pickle. 
34 c. melted butter. 

Mix in the order given. 

CODFISH HASH. 

Yx lb. salt codfish. 

6 medium-sized potatoes. 

2 tbsp. butter. 
Yz c. hot milk. 

Parboil codfish for 15 or 20 minutes Break apart in 
small pieces. Boil and mash potatoes, add to them fi.sh, but- 
ter and milk enough to make a soft mass ; beat well and 
season if necessary. Put into the oven to brown over, or 
])Ut into buttered skillet and cook on top of stove without 
stirring until brown underneath. Fold and serve. 

FISH BALLS. 
1 c. salt codfish. 
2^ c. ])otatoes. 

Y2 tbsj). butter. 

y% tsp. ])e])i)cr. 

Wash the fish in cold water and break into small pieces; 
wash and pare the potatoes and cut in ]>ieces. Cook the fish 
and ])otatoes together in boiling water until the ])otatoes are 



PRACTICAL COOKERY 



soft, drain and shake over the fire until dry ; mash with a 
wire potato masher, add the beaten egg, butter and pepper, 
add more salt if needed and beat until light. Take up the 
mixture by spoonfuls, mould slightly, and slip them into the 
fat. Fry one minute, or until brown. 

HALIBUT TIMBALE WITH PEAS. 

(Mrs. Hill.) 
Chop fine one pound of halibut, weighed after being freed 
of skin and bones. Beat the yolk of an egg ; add one tea- 
s])Oonful and a fourth of salt, one-fourth a teaspoonful of 
white pepper and half a teaspoonful of pai)rika. Mix a tea- 
spoonful of cornstarch with a little milk, then add milk to 
make three-fourths a cup in all, and gradually stir into the 
yolk and seasonings, then stir the whole through the fish. 
Lastly, fold in thoroughly one-third a cup of heavy cream, 
beaten firm. Turn the mixture into a border or a Charlotte- 
Russe mold, carefully buttered. Set on many folds of paper 
in a baking pan. Surround with water at the bcnling point, 
and let cook in the oven till firm in the center. Remove from 
the water. Let stand three or four minutes, that the prep- 
aration may shrink from the mold a little; unmold on hot 
dish. Fill the center or surround, as required, with peas, 
seasoned with salt, black pepper, butter and a teaspoonful 
of sugar. Serve Hollandaise or fish Bechamel sauce, in a 
sauce boat. 

FISH BECHAMEL SAUCE. 

(Boston C. S. Magazine.) 
Melt three tablespoonfuls of butter; in it cook three table- 
spoonfuls of flour and a scant half teaspoonful, each, of salt 
and paprika ; add three-fourths a cup, each, of fish broth ( made 
of the fish trimmings, slice of onion, carrot and branch of 
parsley), and thin cream and stir until boiling. 

HALIBUT DELIGHT. 

One slice of halibut, cut one inch thick, then cut into long 
strips about one inch wide and four inches in length. Rub 
with salt and pepper, and lemon juice, and dip into a fritter 
batter and cook in deep fat till golden brown ; drain on l)rown 
paper. (Do not have fat too hot. as it will cook the doughy 
covering and fish will be raw.) This makes a pleasant change 
and makes a small piece of fish go a long way. 

BAKED CREAM FISH. 

Roil two pounds of any good white fish in salted water; 
when done, allow to cool, then break into two small flakes. 



PRACTICAL COOKERY 



S tbsp. butter. 

3 tsp. flour. 

2 c. milk. 

1 tsp. chopped parsley. 

1 green i)ep])er, chopped line. 

2 tsp. salt. 
M.tsp. pepper. 
Juice oi halt lemon. 
A little grated onion. 

Melt butter, add Hour, then milk, ctiok till thick, add seas- 
oning, green pepp.r, onion juice or lemon juice. Butter bak- 
ing dish, put in a layer of fish and layer of dressing, alternate 
till all is used, then sprinkle top with bu-ttered bread crumbs, 
liake half an hour. (.\ny cold, fresh tish on hand may ])e 
used for this purpose.) 

FRIED OYSTERS. 

Select large oysters, wash and wipe them, remove pieces 
of shell, season with salt and ])epper, roll in fine bread crumbs 
which have been dried, sifted and seasoned, dip in beaten egg 
and again in crumbs. The eggs should have one tal)lespot>n- 
ful of water or oyster juice added to it. Fry one minute ; 
drain, garnish and serve. 

FRICASSEED OYSTERS. 

2 tbsp. butter. 

's tsp. white pe])per. 

i tsp. salt. 

Cayenne. 

1 pt., or 30 tnsters. 

I'lace all the ingredients, except the oysters, in a chafing 
dish or co\ered saucepan. A\'hen hot, add the oysters, cover 
and shake the pan occasionally. When the oysters are ])lumi), 
drain them and place them where they will keep hot. 

Add enough cream to the liquid in the pan to make one 

CU]). 

OYSTER STEW. 

1 c. milk. 

1 pt. or 30 oysters. 

Salt and pepper. 

1 tbsp. butter. 

Scald the milk. Cook and strain the oyster juice, then 
add the oysters, and cook until the edges curl. .\dd the seas- 
tinii\g. buUer and hot milk. Serve at once. 

(^nc tables])oonful flour may be cooked with the butter as 
for white sauce. 



PRACTICAL COOKERY 



OYSTER CELERY. 

1 c. finely cut celery. 

1 c. finely cut green pepper. 

3 tbsp. butter. 

3 tbsp. flour. 

3 c. milk. 

1 qt. well drained oysters. 
Add seasoning- to taste. 

2 eg-gs. 

Place celery, green pepper and butter in dish and cook 
slowly, then add flour, and the milk, stirring till thick ; ad<l 
seasoning and oysters. When edges liegin to curl, remove 
from fire and add two well beaten eggs. 

SCALLOPED OYSTERS. 

1 qt. oysters. 

Yi c. butter, melted. 

2 c. bread crumbs. 

1 c. cream or milk (warmed). 

2 tbsp. lemon juice. 
2 tsp. salt. 

yi tsp. pepper. 

Drain and wash the oysters and dry in folded cloth. Mix 
the dry bread crumbs and all the seasoning together, then 
add the melted butter, and mix well together. Butter a bak- 
ing dish, cover bottom well with one-third of the cruml)s. then 
add half of the oysters, then one-third of the crun;bs, and the 
other half of the oysters. Cover with the remainder of the 
crumbs. Pour over the warm cream and bake in a quick 
oven for 20 minutes. 

OYSTER COCKTAILS IN PEPPERS. 

Select bullnose peppers, one for each guest; slice off stem 
and remove all of the seeds and white membrane from the 
peppers. Fill each pepper with six oysters and a sauce made 
of one ta])lesp()onful of tomato catsup, one teaspoonful of 
horseradish and made mustard, six drops of Worchestershire 
sauce, dash paprika. Set each pepper in wreath of shredded 
cab])age. marinated with French dressing. 



99 



PRACTICAL COOKERY 



CHAPTER XVIII. 



SALADS. 

No dinner would be considered complete without a salad 
of some kind. AUhough salad plants contain no great amount 
of nutriment, their crispness and cooling qualities add a great 
deal to the ideal dinner. 

Salads may be considered economical, for they are often 
a great help in utilizing small left-overs. Small portions of 
meat and vegetal)les may be blended together with a good 
(Ircssing and wi'l make a delicious salad, or a combination 
i)f different vegetables, also fruits, with the addition of nuts 

It is almost useless to try and give definite rules for the 
making of salads. The combinations will depend so much 
upon the materials on hand. 

In the making of salads, there is opportunity for original- 
ity and inventiveness. One of the important things to be 
considered is its attractiveness. A salad should be one of the 
most attracti\'e parts of the dinner. The greens should be 
as fresh and crisp as possible and fruits and vegetables cut 
in attractive pieces. In Oriental countries, flowers are used 
in the preparation of salad. In America, they are principally 
used for decoration. 

Chief among the salad plants is lettuce. Historv relates 
that the plant was used by the ancients at the close of a meal, 
owing to its cooling properties. The lettuce plant is often 
served alone as a salad. At a very heavy dinner, the plain 
lettuce salad is more acceptable than a salad of vegetables, 
fish or fruit, unless the salad is a substitute for dessert. 

To keej) the lettuce in good condition for several days, sep- 
arate the leaves, washing them carefully, and let them remain 
in very cold water for at least 15 minutes. Then look over each 
leaf carefully to see that no insects cling to it. Take a ])iece 
of linen or heavy quality of cheesecloth, wet in cold water, 
and wring dry. Place the lettuce on the cloth, fold the ends 
together, and set on ice. It will keep fresh and crisp in this 
wav for several days. 

The coarse outer leaves, which are too good to discard 
and not attractive to serve as they are. mav be shredded very 
fine with scissors or a sharp knife, and will make a good bed 
for a vegetable or fruit salad. 

The olive oil, which is used so extensi-velv in the prep- 
aration of salads, is the oil which is obtained from the olives 



PRACTICAL COOKERY 



which are crushed between rollers, sufficient pressure being 
used to crush only the fleshy leaving the pits whole. They 
are then put into sacks, made of grass or crash, and placed 
under a press. The first oil to come from the pulp is consid- 
ered the best. The pressure is increased until all the oil is 
collected. Then cold water is added, and the mess is again 
pressed. A third pressing is then made, using hot water. 
After purifying, the oil is ready for the market. 

The best olives for eating come from Spain ; the best 
olive oil from Italy. The oil is used in the manufacture of 
soaps and for preserving sardines. The olive tree industry 
is rapidly growing in our own country. The Pacific slope 
offers one of the best olive areas in the world. 

The tree dates back to patriarchal times, having been one 
of the special blessings of the promised land. The trees grow 
abundantly throughout Palestine. 

For fruit salad, one should use a dressing which contains 
very little acid and to which a great deal of whipped cream 
has been added. 

A'^egetables j^repared for salads will be more attractive if 
cut with sharp knife or scissors. A chopping bowl is not good 
for this purpose. Scissors should always be used in cutting 
meat. 

PLAIN FRENCH DRESSING. 

^ tsp. salt. 

%. tsp. pepper. 

3 tbsp. olive oil. 

1 tbsp. vinegar. 

Onion juice (if desired), or rub the salad bowl with a clove 
or garlic. 

Stir the seasoning into the oil ; add \inegar, and stir vig- 
orously until the dressing thickens slightlv. 

French dressing mav be served with nn\- .""rpen salad. 
MAYONNAISE DRESSING. 

1 c. salad oil. 

1 yolk of tgg. 

Dash of cayenne. 

y2 tsp. salt. 

% tsp. mustard. 

Add the mustard, salt nnd nepper to the egtr. Heat ^\■ell. 
Add oil, which has been chilled, drop bv drop, stirring" alwavs 
in one direction. When it gets too thick to stir, add a few 
drons of lemon juice or vinegar, then more oil, and so on 
until all the oil has been used. The bowl should be kept 
cold. Use a silver spoon. 

101 



PRACTICAL COOKERY 



If it curdles, heat iij) another yolk and add slowly the 
curdled nia\ onnaise. 

BOILED SALAD DRESSING. 

Yi thsp. salt. 

1 tsp. mustard. 

V/i thsp. flour. 

Yolks of 2 eggs. 

\y2 ths]). melted huttcr (or olive oil). 

^ c. milk. 

54 c. vinegar. 

j/^ tsp. white pepper and a spk. paprika. 

Mix dry ingredients, add yolks of eggs, slightly heaten. 
hutter, milk and vinegar very slowly. Cook in doul)le hoiler 
until mixture thickens. 

MIXED VEGETABLE OR MACEDOINE SALAD. 

Cold cooked peas, carrots, heets, string heans — almost any 
cold vegetahles — may he comhined in this salad. 

Cut heets and carrots in half-inch cuhes, string heans and 
celery in short lengths, mix each vegetahle se])arately with 
French dressing, and arrange them in sections, forming a 
circular mound. Let \egetal)les of contrasting colors come 
next each other, (larnish with radishes, celery tips, lettuce 
leaves, etc. 

POTATO SALAD. 

3 c. cold diced ])otatoes. 

1 green pepper, chopped fine. 

8 olives, cut very fine. 

Yi cucumher, cut fine (remove seeds). 

Yi grated onion. 

Y2 c. celery, cut fine. 

Whites of 2 hard-hoiled eggs, cut fine. 

1 tsp. salt. 

Mix all together and hlend with either French or may- 
onnaise dressing. Heap the salad on a dish, decorate top 
with yolks of eggs which have heen put through a sieve, 
garnish sides with radishes and S])rigs of ]iarslev. 

STUFFED TOMATO SALAD. 
6 tomatoes. 

1 green pepper, cut very fine. 
Y2 grated onion (small). 
Yi cucumher. cut fine (seeds removed). 
8 olives, cut fine. 
Y2 c. celer\-, cut line. 



PRACTICAL COOKERY 



1 tsp. chopped parsley. 

1 tsp. salt. 

Peel tomatoes without scalding them, being careful not 
to break them ; then cut out a generous slice from the end 
of tomato, and with a spoon scoop out center. Sprinkle little 
salt inside of shell, turn shells upside down to allow them 
to drain, l^ake the largest pieces of tomato that were scoo])ed 
out, cut in small pieces, and add to prepared vegetables, mix 
with mayonnaise dressing. The shells must be filled just 
before serving. Put teaspoonful mayonnaise dressing on top 
of each tomato, serve on lettuce leaves. 
COLD SLAW. 

V2 of a small, hard cabbage. 

1 c. cooked salad dressing. 

1 green pepper, cut fine. 

Soak the cabbage in cold salt water for thirty minutes, 
shred it fine with a sharp knife or vegetable shredder, and 
mix the dressing with it ; add i)epi)er and cover with chop])ed 
parsley. 

SPANISH SALAD. 

2 tbs]). gelatine, dissolved in ^ c. cold water. 
y2 c. lemon juice. 

2 c. boiling water. 

1 tsp. salt. 

•M c. sugar. 

1 c. celery, cut fine. 

1 c. cabbage, cut fine. 

1 green pepper, cut fine. 

\y2 c. cucumber, cut fine (seeds removed). 

Soak gelatine in cold water 10 minutes. Add salt, sugar 
and lemon juice to boiling water, allowing it to come to boil- 
ing point. Add a speck of green vegetable coloring, remove 
from fire, add gelatine and stir well. When partlv cool, add 
vegetables. Wet a mold in cold water, cut pimentoes in long, 
narrow strips. Dip them in dissolved gelatine and decorate 
the mold with them. Pour in salad and chill. It is a good 
plan to let this stand 24 hours. Serve on lettuce with may- 
onnaise. 

TOMATO AND GREEN PEPPER SALAD. 

1 large sliced tomato (chilled). 

2 large green peppers. 
1 small stalk celery. 

Chop well and add mayonnaise. 

This is very nice served with a meat course. 



PRACTICAL COOKERY 



TOMATO JELLY SALAD. 

1 can tomatoes. 

1 onion (sliced). 

Yz doz. whole cloves. 

Yi doz. Knox's gelatine. 

1 bunch celery (cut up). 

Salt and pepper. 

1 c. whipped cream. 

Cook tomatoes, celery, onions and cloves together. Strain 
through a fine sieve. Dissolve gelatine in a little water and 
stir into the tomatoes ; when partly cold, add cream. Pour 
all inio a ring mold. When ready to serve, turn out. and 
fill the hole with chopped cabbage and nuts. Pour mayon- 
naise over the top. 

This may be moulded with asparagus or hard-boiled eggs, 

STUFFED SPICED PRUNE SALAD. 

1 lb. prunes. 

IV2 c. pecans. 

1 c. brown sugar. 

Yi c. vinegar. 

1 lemon. 

1 tsp. each of nutmeg, allspice and cloves. 

1 tbsp. cinnamon. 

Salad dressing — lettuce. 

Wash and soak prunes over night. Mix the vinegar, sugar, 
spices and sliced lemon, and boil fixe minutes. Add the 
prunes and let stand five minutes. Place in a dish and let 
them remain till cold. Remove the stone, and replace with 
a pecan. Serve on lettuce with mayonnaise. 

PINEAPPLE AND CUCUMBER SALAD. 

(Miss M. S. Mack.) 
1 can of sliced pineapple. 

1 large cucumber. 
Juice 6 lemons. 
J/2 c. sugar. 

2 tbsp gelatine (dissolved in Y- c- cold water). 

Take juice from pineapple and add lemon juice and enough 
cold water to make two cupfuls ; add sugar, and allow to 
come to boiling point and color a light green ; remove from 
fire and add gelatine. WHien partly cool, add the pinea]:)ple 
and cucumber which have been diced ; pour into a wet mold 
nr small individual molds; serve on lettuce. This salad does 
not have to be served with a dressing. 



PRACTICAL COOKERY 



FRUIT SALAD. 

2 good-sized apples. 

1 bunch celery. 

y2 pineapple. 

1 good-sized cup of English walnuts. 

1 grapefruit or orange. 

Dash of salt. 

Cut in attractive pieces and serve with mayonnaise dres- 
sing. 

FEAR AND CHEESE SALAD. 

Allow one-half of a large canned pear for each serving, 
one cup of chopped pecans, one-half cup of boiled salad dres- 
sing, one-half cup of whipped cream, two Neufchatel cheese 
and some choice lettuce leaves. 

Way of preparing: Drain the syrup from the pears, and 
wipe dry with a towel. Then place each half pear on a let- 
tuce leaf. Mix the cream and salad dressing and add half 
the nuts. Fill the centers of the pears with this dressing and 
place half a pecan on each. Press the cheese through a veg- 
etable press," forming a wreath around each pear. Serve the 
remaining salad dressing in a bowl, passing it with the salad. 
CHICKEN SALAD. 

1 medium-size chicken, cooked until tender. 

1 cucumber, cut fine (seeds removed). 
Yi c. chopped olives. 

2 hard-boiled eggs, cut fine. 
1 tsp. salt. 

^ c. celery, cut fine. 

Remove skins and bones from chicken; cut meat in small 
pieces with scissors, mix with the vegetables, and add salt 
and enough salad dressing to make it hold together. 

Pork tenderloin may be used instead of chicken. If the 
tenderloin is cooked in double boiler in milk, it is even more 
delicious than the chicken and less expensive. 



105 



PRACTICAL COOKERY 



CHAPTER XIX. 



SOUPS. 

SOUPS WITHOUT MEAT. 

GENERAL RULES. 

These soups are thickened by using butter and flour ; tiiis 
prevents a separation of the thicker and thinner parts oi the 
soup ; the butter shoukl l)e heated until it bubbles, the flour 
and seasoning added and enough (jf the hot liquid to make 
a smooth sauce, thin enough to pour easily ; this should l)e 
poured into the rest of the hot liquid antl cooked in a double 
boiler until the soup is of the proper consistency. 

Soda is used in soups made of dried peas and beans to 
soften the casein ; soda is used with tomatoes to neutralize 
the acid. 

These soujjs must be serxed as soon as cooked, and in hot 
dishes. 

Cris}) crackers, croutons or soup sticks may be served 
with them. 

CRISP CRACKERS. 

Split and butter thick crackers, and brown in hot oven. 

The vegetables most commonly used are peas, beans, len- 
tils, potatoes, corn, celery, spinach and asparagus. Old and 
tough vegetables may also be used in making these soups, 
as the old and tough part is sifted out. 

Cream soups are economical and nourishing and should 
be served frequently, but are too rich to precede a heavy 
meal. For this reason, they are better served at lunch than 
at dinner. 

VEGETABLE SOUP. 

J/2 c. carrot. 

y^ c. turnip. 

y2 c. celery. 

1 c. potato. 

Yz c. onion. 

iy2 qts water. 

4 tbsp. butter. 

1 tbsp. flour. 

Yz tbsp. parsley. 

1>4 tsp. salt. 

Cut vegetables in small pieces and mix all (except potato 
and oni(m) ; cook 10 minutes in three tablespoonfuls butter; 



PRACTICAL COOKERY 



add potato, cook two minutes; add onion and water, cook 
one hour. Mix one tablespoonful butter and the flour, add 
enoug-h of the liquid to make it pour easily, add to the soup, 
with the seasoning, and cook one hour longer. Beat with a 
fork to break the vegetables ; add parsley, and serve hot. 

CREAM OF TOMATO SOUP. 

1 can tomatoes. 

1 tsp. soda. 

4 tbsp. butter. 

4 tbsp. flour. 

3 tsp. salt. 

Yz tsp. white pepper. 

1 qt. milk. 

Cover and stew the tomatoes slowly one-half to one hour ; 
rub through a strainer, and add soda while hot ; make a white 
sauce and add the tomato juice. Serve immediately. 

GREEN PEA SOUP. 

1 pt. or 1 can peas. 

1 qt. water. 

2 tbsp. butter. 
2 tbsp. flour. 
Yi tsp. salt. 

1-16 tsp. white pepper. 

Yz tsp. sugar. 

1 pt. milk or cream. 

Wash the peas and cook them in 1 pt. of boiling water 
until soft; mash them with the water in which they were 
cooked, strain and add the remainder of the liquid ; make a 
white sauce, and cook until it is like thick cream. If the peas 
are fresh, some of the pods may be cooked with them. 



lo7 



PRACTICAL COOKERY 



CHAPTER XX. 



SAUCES. 

There is a French epigram which, when translated, reads, 
"Cooking and roasting may be taught, but it takes a genius 
to make a sauce." This is very true, for in no other line of 
cooking does the art of cooking display itself to better ad- 
\-antage than in the making of sauces. 

Each sauce must jjosses a distinct flavor and character of 
its owm, and add richness and piquancy or flavor without los- 
ing its own identity. 

The excellence of many entrees depends almost entirely 
on the sauces which enter largely into their composition. 

Most fish dishes would be insipid without an appropriate 
sauce. Some meat dishes and a large variety of puddings 
would be unpalatable without their customary sauces. 

The French, perhaps, exceed all other nations in the mak- 
ing of sauces. One will And, in glancing over a French c(jo1c 
book as many as 500 and 600 recipes for sauces History 
tells us that long before the reign of Louis XI the "SAU- 
CIERS" had formed themselves mto a corporation. The> 
made sauces which the people botight to flavor their ragouts. 

Difference between sauces and gravy — Grav}' is simply 
the juices of meat diluted and seasoned, but not thickened, 
except the slightly thickened brown gravy, which ought 
to really rank as a thin sauce. 

Sauces are liquid seasonings. The following licjuids form 
the bases of most of the sauces: 

L White Stock — Nearly all the good, white, savory 
sauces have for their foundation wdiite stock anl milk, used 
in varying proportions. 

2. Brown Stock — All good brown savory sauces are 
made from stock, more or less rich, according to the ]Hirpose 
for which they are intended. 

?i. Fish Stock — Fish sauces usually ha\e for their foun- 
dation about equal quantities of fish stock and milk. 

4. Milk — Milk forms the basis of nearlv all the plain 
white sauces, both sweet and savory, also of bread sauce. 
THICKENINGS FOR SAUCES. 

White Roux — In making white roux, equal c]uantities of 
butter and flour are stirred in a stew pan over a slow fire for 
10 or 15 minutes, but without allowing the roux t(^ take any 
color. If for immediate use. the roux mu^t cool slightly be- 



PRACTICAL COOKERY 



fore adding the liquid. 

Fawn Roux — For a fawn or blonde roux, take equal quan- 
tities of butter and flour, and cook slowly over the fire or in 
a cool oven until the mixture acquires a pale fawn color. 

Brown Roux — This third variety is usually called "stock 
roux." because where roux is being constantly used, a large 
quantity of it is made and kept in stock. The proportion of 
l)Utter and flour are the same as for white and fawn roux. 
The nut-brown color is obtained by a long, slow process of 
frying or roasting, during which much of the flavor, charac- 
teristic of well-made brown sauce, is developed. 

Kgg I^iaison — This thickening is composed of yolks of 
eggs beaten up with a small quantity of cream, milk, or white 
stock. The sauce to which this liaison (or thickening) is 
added must require no further cooking. One or two table- 
spoonfuls of hot sauce should be mixed with the eggs and 
cream, and the whole then strained into the sauce, which 
should be just below boiling point. To remove the raw taste 
of the eggs, it is necessary to cook and stir the sauce by the 
side of the fire for a few minutes, but it must not be allowed 
to boil, or the eggs may curdle. 

Butter and Cream Liaison — When butter and cream are 
employed for thickening, they are added in equal proportions 
to the sauce just before serving; reheating would spoil the 
flavor of the sauce. 

Kneaded Butter Liaison — This form of liaison is exceed- 
inglv useful when no roux is at hand, and a little additional 
thickening is required. Butter will absorb about its own 
weight in flour, and the two are kneaded together on a plate 
until all the flour is absorbed, or, in other words, thoroughly 
moistened by the l:)Utter. Tbis liaison should be added to 
the sauce in small portions and stirred until it is smoothly 
mixed with it. 

GRAVY. 

Gravy in its most simple form is made bv adding boiling 
water to the sediment which remains in the meat tin when 
the fat has been carefully poured ofif. It should be seasoned 
to taste, boiled up, stirring meanwhile to loosen the brown 
particles which adhere to the sides of the tin, well skimmed, 
and strained over or round the meat. Any bones that have 
been removed from the meat may be boiled to form the basis 
of the gravv. but nothing else must be introduced. Beef gravy 
must contain only salt and pepper; and mutton gravy the 
same ingredients, and a few drops of caramel when the gravy 
is very light in color. A'^eal gravy, also, should be made from 



PRACTICAL COOKERY 



the l)()ncs and, after l)einj^" mixed with tliat in tlie meat tin. 
should be slightly thickened with flour and butter, kneaded 
together, or flour mixed smoothly with a little water. Gravies 
served with game, roast rabbits, etc., may be made from beef, 
beef or game bones, or from stock. Clear stock must be used 
for clear gravies, but, with this exception, any good second 
stock will serve. An economical cook will ahvays contrive 
to provide the basis of gravies, sauces, and soups out of the 
bones and trimmings of ])oultry and meat, except, of course, 
the clear soups and gravies, which must have a good, clear 
stock for their foundation. 

WHITE SAUCE. 
2 tbs]). butter. 
2 tbsp. flour. 
1 c. milk. 
14 ts]). salt. 
)4 tsp. white ])ci)])er. 

CREAM SAUCE. 
Use cream instead of milk and from one ..j two table- 
spoonfuls of flour, according to the thickness of the cream ; 
otherwise, the same as white sauce. 

THICK WHITE SAUCE. 

(FOR CROQUETTES AND SIMILAR MIXTURES.) 

Tliree tablespooiifuls of l)Ultcr, one-third a cvi]) of flour. 

one cup of milk, or white stock, or cream and white stock 

combined. Use the same quantity of condiments and ])re- 

pare as white sauce. 

VELOUTE SAUCE. 
Same as white sauce, with white stock, i)referably chicken. 
lla\'ore(l with onion, celery aud carrot. 

BECHAMEL. 
Make a \eloute sauce, using equal cpiantities of chicken 
stock and cream for liquid. If the chicken stock has not been 
flavored with vegetables, etc., frv a generous tablespoonful 
of vegetables, carrot, onion, parsley, etc.. in the butter be- 
fore adding the flour; do not. however, allow them to color; 
strain I)ef(MX' serving. 

HORSERADISH SAUCE. 
To a cu]) of \elc»ute sauce add one-fourth a cuj) of hot 
cream and one-third a cu]> of fresh-grated horseradish; let 
heat without boiling. Serx'e with fish. 

HORSERADISH SAUCE (Hot, for Beef). 
4 tbsp. grated horseradish. 



PRACTICAL COOKERY 



4 tbsp. powdered cracker. 

Yi c. cream. 

1 tsp. powdered sugar. 

1 tsp. salt. 

^ saltsp. ])ei)])er. 

1 tsp. mustard. 

2 tl)sp. \incgar. 

Mi.x. and lieat over hot water. 

HORSERADISH SAUCE (Cold). 

Cream one-fourth of a cu]> of butter till very light; adfl 
two tablespoonfuls of grated horseradish, one tal)les])oonful 
of very thick cream, and half a teas])oonful of Tarragon vin- 
egar. Keep it on the ice till thick and cold. 

OLIVE SAUCE (for Roast Duck). 

(Mrs. Hill.) 

Cover a dozen olives with boiling water and let stand half 
an hour on the back of the range. I 'are them round and round 
and remove the stone; add to a pint of 1)rown sauce, then let 
simmer five or six minutes. 

SAUCE PIQUANTE (for Boiled Beef). 
(Mrs. Hill.) 

2 tbs]). choiJ])cd shallot or very mild onion. 

2 tbsp. tine-choj)])ed ])arsley. 

Ya, c. butter. 

1-3 c. flour. 

4 tbsp. vinegar. 

2 c. brown stock. 

Cayenne to taste. 

Cook the shallot with the butter and \inegar until the 
butter looks clear and brown, when the shallot will have ab- 
sorbed the vinegar. Then add the Hour and i)e])]jer, salt, if 
needed, and let cook until brown; add the stock graduallv 
and, just before serving, the parsley and gherkins. 
BROWN SAUCE. 

1 pt. hot stock. 

2 tbsp. minced onion. 
2 tbsp. butter. 

2 heaping tbsjj. flour. 

Y2 t.sp. salt. 

Y2 saltsp. ])epper. 

1 tbsp. lemon juice. 

Caramel enough to color. 

Mince the onion and fry it in the butter five minutes. Be 



PRACTICAL COOKERY 



t-;ircful iKit til hiini it. VVlu-ii llic liullcr is brown, add the 
dry flour and stir well. Add the hot stock, a little at a lime, 
and stir rapidly as it thickens, until perfectly smooth. .Add 
the salt and pepper, usin^*- more if hif^di seasoning be desired. 
.Simmer hve minutes, and strain to reiiKJve the onion. 

The stock for brown sauces may be made from bones and 
remnants of any kind of meat, by soaking them in cold water, 
and boiling until the nutriment is extracted. 'J'he onion may 
be omitted if the flavor be not desired; but the sauce is better 
with it if it be not burned. 

TOMATO SAUCE (for Chops or Fish). 

y^ can toniatoes. 

1 c. water. 

2 cloves. 

-' alls|)icc berries. 
1 pi'ppercorns. 

1 ts]). mi.\ed herbs. 

2 sj)rigs i)arsley. 

1 tbs]). clioppi'd oni<ni. 

1 lbs]), butter. 

1 heaping tbsp. cornstarch. 

>4 tsp. salt. 

Yi sallsp. ])epper. 

I'ut the tomato, water, spices, herbs and parslev on to 
boil in a granite saucepan. I^'ry the onion in the butter till 
yellow, add the cornstarch, and stir all into the tomato. Sim 
mer 10 minutes; add the salt and pepper, and a little cayi-nne 
pei)per, and strain the sauce over boiled meat or iish. 
SAUCE TARTAR (for Fish or Meat Substitute). 

1 tsj). mustard. 

Yi saltsp. pepi)er. 

1 ts}). powdered sugar. 

1 saltsp. salt. 

h'evv dro])s onion juice. 

Y(dks 2 raw eggs. 

Yi 0. oil. 

.^ tbsp. \inegar. 

1 tbsp. chop])e(l olives. 

1 tbsp. cho])j)e(l capers. 

1 tbs]). chopped cucund)er pickles. 

1 tbs]). cho])]>cd parsley. 

Mi.x in the order given; add the yolks, and stir well; add 
the oil slowly, then the vinegar and chopped ingredients. This 
will keep for several weeks. 



PRACTICAL COOKERY 



MINT SAUCE. 

1 huiicli iniiil. 

y^ c. boiling water. 

2 tbs]). sugar. 
y^ t.s]). salt. 

The juice of one lemon or 

4 tl)S]). vinegar. 

A few gr. cayenne. 

j4 tsp. .salt. 

Chop the leaves from tlic Knncli of mint very line; ponr 
()\'er the water, a(l<l the sugar, cover closely and let stand in 
a cool place half an hour; then add the lemon juice or \in- 
cgar. If lemon juice is used, omit half of the sugar. 
TARTAR SAUCE (serve with Fish or Meat Croquettes). 

To one cup of mayonnaise dressing add six olives, cut 
very line; two small cucumher ])icl<les, chopped hue, and()nc 
teaspoonful of cho])ped parsley, and a little grated onion. 
CUCUMBER SAUCE (served with Fish or Meat Croquettes). 

(irate one medium-sized cucumher and drain well, and 
add to one cup of whip])ed cream; add little salt and pai)ril<a, 
cho])pcd parslev and olives, if so desired. 
FORCEMEAT. 

In modern phraseology the term farce or forcemeat is ap- 
])lied e(pially to the simple and (|uickly-made veal stuffing, 
the linely-pounded (ptenelle mixture (which is in no sense a 
stu fling), and the various farces used to cover sections of 
])igeons, cutlets, etc. 

The consistency of forcemeats varies according to the 
pur])Ose for which they are recjuircd. Thf)se intended for 
stuf^Fing may he moistened with milk instead of egg, and made 
much more moist than (pienelles, which must retain their 
shaj)e and he firm enough to support their own weight dur- 
ing the process of cooking. 

The (piantity of lifpiid necessary to thoroughly moisten, 
and the nund)er of eggs recptired to stiffen the various suh- 
stances, cannot he stated exactly, hut it is better to have a 
rough guide than none, and when making (pienelle mixtures, 
which must have a certain consistency, and yet retain the 
lightness which is one of their chief points of excellence, it 
is advisable tf) test the mixture by poaching a small (pian- 
tity of it in boiling water. When too soft, another yolk of 
egg should be added, if eggs have been already used, or a few 
crumbs may be added to mixtures of which they already form 
a part. 

113 



PRACTICAL COOKERY 



The excellence of many simple forcemeats depends large- 
ly on flavorings and seasoning. In making them, it is a com- 
mon error to use too little salt and pepper, and too few fla- 
vorings ; it is much better to use a small quantity of several 
kinds than to allow one flavor to predominate. A compar- 
atively large quantity of nutmeg may be used in veal force- 
meat without its presence being detected ; it is believed that 
its strength is in some manner used in developing the flavor 
of the substances with which it is mixed. 

The liquid in which quenelles are poached must always 
be quite boiling, in order that the surface may immediately 
harden, and so help them to retain their shape. 



lU 



PRACTICAL COOKERY 



CHAPTER XXI. 



BATTERS AND DOUGHS. 

1. Quick bread mixtures, such as biscuits, muffins, grid- 
dle cakes, etc., are made from a combination of flour and milk 
in varying proportions. Some are made light by the addition 
of egg and beating in air, which forms bubbles, and expands 
when heated ; also by moisture being changed to steam when 
placed in a very hot oven, causing the egg albumen to harden 
almost immediately and preventing the escape of the heated 
air. 

2. Batters containing an acid, such as sour milk, or mo- 
lasses, are lightened by the addition of baking soda. 

3. Baking soda is one of the most important of all the 
products of chemical manufacture. It is made from common 
salt. Soda is an alkaline carbonate. For that reason soda 
is added to acids, because alkalies and acids have the power 
of neutralizing each other. When an acid is added to an 
alkali in the presence of moisture, a gas is formed which 
produces efifervescence. 

4. Batters not containing acids are made light by soda 
an.d cream of tartar. Cream of tartar is an acid salt. It exists 
in grapes and tamarinds and argols, which are the crystals 
that are found deposited on the sides and bottoms of casks 
containing grape wine. When mixed with l)oracic acid, it 
is rendered more soluble, and is then called soluble cream of 
tartar. It has a pleasant acid taste. 

5. Batters not containing acids are made light by the 
addition of baking powder. This is a combination of botli 
soda and cream of tartar, with the addition of cornstarch, 
which absorbs the moisture and i^rexcnts the combination 
from caking. 

6. The greatest care should be exercised in using these 
leavening agents. If too much is used, it will sj)oil the batter 
or dough. Especially is this true when soda alone is used. 
If more is used than is necessary to neutralize the acid pres- 
ent, it will discolor the df)Ugh. There will also be a disagree- 
able odor when the dough is broken apart after it is baked. 

7. For one cup of sour milk or molasses use three-fourths 
of a teaspoonful of soda or, if milk is very sour, one teaspoon- 
ful of soda may be used. When soda alone is used, it is a 
good plan to dissolve it in a small amount of boiling water, 
then adding it to the milk or molasses. 

When cream of tartar and soda are used together, use fot 



PRACTICAL COOKERY 



one cup of milk, three-fourths teaspoonful of cream of tartar 
and one-third teaspoonful of soda; sifting them with the dry 
ingredients. 

The proportions for baking powder are two teaspoonfuls 
for one cup of flour; it should be sifted with the tiour. 

8. One cup of flour to one cup of milk makes a pour bat- 
ter. 

9. One cup of liquid to two cups of flour makes a drop 
batter. 

10. One cup of liquid to two and three-fourths cups of 
tlour makes a soft dough. 

11. One cup of liquid to three cups of flour makes a stiff 
dough. 

POP-OVERS. 
1 c. flour. 
14 tsp. salt. 

1 c. milk. 

2 eggs. 

Mix salt and flour, add milk gradually, add eggs unbeaten. 
Beat with Dover egg beater for five minutes or more. Pour 
into hot greased pop-over cups and bake forty minutes. Do 
not open oven door at first for 15 minutes. Place first into 
a very hot oven; after the first 15 minutes the heat must be 
lowered. 

CREAM PUFFS. 

1 c. hot water. 

^2 c. butter. 

1 c. flour. 

4 eggs. 

Heat the butter and water until the water comes to a boil. 
Add all the flour and mix thoroughly. Cook; stirring con- 
stantly, until the mass leaves the side of the pan in a smooth 
ball. Add the eggs unbeaten, one at a time ; beat until thor- 
oughlv mixed. Drop by tablespoonfuls on buttered baking 
sheets, and bake in a moderate oven 30 or 35 minutes. When 
cool, fill with whipped cream, sweetened and flavored, or with 
cream filling. Do not open oven door for the first 15 min- 
utes. 
FILLING FOR CREAM PUFFS, ALSO CREAM PIES. 

1 pt. hot milk. 
y2 c. flour. 

Yz c. sugar. 

2 eggs, or 4 yolks of eggs. 
34 c. sugar. 



PRACTICAL COOKERY 



1/2 tsp. vanilla. 

y^ tsp. salt. 

Mix together the flour, salt and half cup of sugar; dilute 
with the hot milk. Cook over hot water until the mixture 
thickens; then cool, stirring constantly; beat the eggs, add 
the rest of the sugar and stir into the mixture, and cook again 
until clear; then cool and flavor. 

CORN BREAD. 

2 c. corn meal. 

1 c. flour. 

1 c. sour milk. 

y^ c. boiling water. 

1 tsp. salt. 
94 tsp. soda. 

2 tbsp. sugar. 

1 tbsp. melted lard. 

Sift meal and scald with boiling water. Allow to cool. 
Sift flour, salt, sugar and soda together, and add to the corn 
meal an egg, slightlv beaten. Add milk and lastly, melted 
butter. Pour into a 'hot greased pan or gem pans. Bake in 
a moderate oven 20 minutes, or until brown. 
RICE GRIDDLE CAKES. 

1 c. milk. 

1 c. cold boiled rice. 

1 tsp. salt. 

2 eggs. 

r tsp. butter. 

1 tbps. melted butter. 

1 c. flour. 

Pour milk over rice and salt; add yolks of egg, beaten 
thick, and lemon color. Add butter, then flour, and last, the 
whites of the eggs, beaten stifif. 

ORANGE PANCAKES. 
(C. S. Monitor.) 

y c. milk. 
1^ c. flour. 

2 tbsp. melted lard. 
^ tsp. salt. 

Juice of 1 orange. 

2 tsp. baking powder. 

1 tsp. sugar. 

Beat egg, add milk, then the dry ingredients, sifted to- 



PRACTICAL COOKERY 



g-ether ; then the melted lard and orange juice. If too stiff, 
more orange juice may be added. 

WAFFLES. 

1 pt. flour. 

2 level tsp. baking powder. 
Yi tsp. salt. 

3 eggs. 

Ij4 cups milk. 

1 tbsp. butter, melted. 

Mix in the order given, add the beaten yolk.s of the eggs 
with the milk ; then the melted butter, and the whites last. 
WAFFLES AND GRIDDLE CAKES. 

A waffle iron is made of two corrugated iron griddles 
fitted and fastened together at one side with a hinge, and re- 
volving in an iron frame, which is to be placed over the fire. 
Tt may be either circular or oblong. Each griddle is divided 
into compartments, which are usually grooved into diamonds, 
hearts, rounds, etc. 

The iron should be placed over the fire, heated on each 
side, and greased thoroughly, as it is very hard to clean if 
the cakes stick. Put a piece of salt pork on a fork, or put a 
small piece of butter in a clean cloth, and rub all over both 
griddles. The heat will melt the butter and let just enough 
of it go through the cloth. This is better than to put it on 
with a knife. Close the griddles and turn them ; this causes 
the fat to run evenly over them. Open, and pour the waffle 
mixture into the center of the half over the fire, or put a 
spoonful in each compartment ; filling them about two-thirds 
full. Cover, and cook one minute on one side, then turn and 
cook a little longer on the other. Any kind of griddle cake 
mixture, with the addition of the melted butter to make them 
crisp, may be cooked on a waffle iron, if one cares to take the 
extra trouble. 

BREAD GRIDDLE CAKES. 

1 pt. stale (not dried) breadcrumbs. 

1 pt milk, scalded. 

1 tbsp. butter. 

Pour the hot milk over the crumbs, add the butter, and 
soak over night or till the crumbs are softened. Then rub 
through a squash strainer; add 

2 eggs, yolks and whites beaten separately. 

1 c. flour. 
Yi tsp. salt. 

2 level tsp. baking powder. 



PRACTICAL COOKERY 



Cold milk to thin, if needed. 

Bake slowly ; spread with butter and sugar, and serve hot. 
BUCKWHEAT GRIDDLE CAKES. 

2 c. scalded milk. 

Yi tsp. salt. 

1 tbsp. molasses. 

^ yeast cake. 

VYz z. buckwheat flour. 

Yt, c. wheat flour (bread). 

Mix and beat well ; let stand over night ; beat slightly 
and allow it to rise a short time before baking. One-third 
cup of corn meal may be added instead of part of the buck- 
wheat for variety. For quick work, use two yeast cakes. 
PLAIN MUFFINS. 

1 c. flour. 

2 tsp. baking powder. 
34 tsp. salt. 

1 tsp. sugar (or more). 
Yz c. milk. 

2 tsp. melted butter. 

Mix and sift dry ingredients ; add milk and melted butter, 
and blend thoroughly. Bake in buttered muffin pans 20 min- 
utes or longer. 

TWIN MOUNTAIN MUFFINS. 

Ya c. butter. 
Ya c. sugar. 

1 ^%%- 

2 c. flour. 

3 tsp. baking powder. 
•)4 c. milk. 

Cream butter gradually ; add sugar, then beaten egg. 
Next, add flour, with which baking powder has been sifted, 
alternating with milk. This will make 10 or 12 mufiins. 

Variations : Instead of all flour, one cup rye or graham 
meal and one cup flour may be used. 

QUAKER MUFFINS. 
(Mrs. E. R. Field.) 
Ys c. rolled oats. 
\Y2 c. flour. 

3 tbsp. sugar. 

4 tsp. baking powder. 
Y2 tsp. salt. 

1 c. scalded milk. 

1 ^m- 



PRACTICAL COOKERY 



2 tbsp. melted butter. 

Turn scalded milk on rolled oats ; let stand five minutes ; 
add sugar, salt, melted butter. Sift in flour and baking pow • 
der; mix thoroughly and add egg, well beaten. 

BAKING POWDER BISCUIT. 

2 c. flour. 

3 tsp. baking powder. 
34 tsp. salt. 

3 tbsp. shortening (butter or lard). 

Ys c. milk (or milk and water). 

Sift dry ingredients together. Rub or chop in the short- 
ening. With the knife, mix in the liquid gradually to form 
a dough that will separate from the bowl in a soft ball. The 
amount of milk, will vary with the quality of the flour. 
Scrape out on a floured board, turn over with a knife. Gently 
flatten with the rolling pin until one-half inch thick. Cut; 
place on floured pan. Bake 10 to 15 minutes in hot oven. 

EGG ROLLS. 

2 c. flour. 

3 tsp. baking powder. 
y2 tsp. salt. 

y2 c. milk. 
3 tbsp. btitter. 

1 ^gg- 

Mix dry ingredients and sift twice. Cut butter into flour. 
Beat egg and add to milk ; add this gradually to flour, mix- 
ing with a knife to a soft dough. Toss on a floured board ; 
pat, and roll lightly to one-half inch thickness. Cut into ob- 
long pieces, and with a floured knife crease through the cen- 
ter of each roll lengthwise. Brush over the top with white 
of egg and sprinkle with granulated sugar. Bake from 12 to 
13 minutes. 

NOODLES. 

- eggs. 

Flour to make a very stiff dough. 

Beat the eggs slightly; add flour gradually. Knead until 
(Unigh is smooth and light. Roll very thin ; cut in fine strips, 
dry thoroughlv. and keep in a jar covered with cheese-cloth. 
Cse in the same way as macaroni. 

ROCK BUNS. 

2 c. flour. 

3 tsp. baking powder. 
yy tsp. salt. 



PRACTICAL COOKERY 



6 tbsp. sugar. 

y2 tsp. ginger. 

1-16 tsp. nutmeg. 

3 tbsp. butter. 

3 tbsp. lard. 

Yz c. currants. 

1 oz. candied orange peel. 

1 ^ZZ- 

]/\ c. milk. 

Mix dry ingredients and sift into bowl. Rub in the short- 
ening and add the currants and orange peel. Make into a 
stiff dough with the ^^^ and milk. Put on a greased pan 
twelve or more high and rocky piles of dough. Bake in a hot 
oven 15 to 20 minutes. 

SHORT CAKE. 

Use same dough as for hot biscuits, making it richer by 
the addition of two tablespoonfuls of lard. Roll quite thin. 
Cut in shape ; spread one with melted butter, and place an- 
other on top. The layers will separate easily after baking. 
Prepared fruit may be put between them. This dough may 
also be used for apple dumpling. 

NUT BREAD. 

(Miss Sutermeister.) 

Yz c. sugar. 

Yz tsp. salt. 

2Y2 c. flour. 

3 tsp. baking powder. 

Yx c. chopped nuts. 

Beat ^^^\ add sugar, milk and dry ingredients, sifted to- 
gether, then the nuts ; mix well together and bake one hour 
in moderate oven. 

BOSTON BROWN BREAD. 

1/^ c. granular corn meal. 

2 c. rye flour. 
1 tsp. salt. 

1 tsp. soda. 

1 c. N. O. molasses. 
. 2 c. sour milk. 

2 tbsp. melted butter. 

Mix dry materials. Put together molasses and half of 
milk ; combine two mixtures, add balance of milk and melted 
butter. Put into greased tins (three 1-pound baking powder 
cans) ; steam for three hours. Take from can and dry in oven 
five minutes. 



PRACTICAL COOKERY 



GRAPE NUT BROWN BREAD. 

1 c. grape nuts. 

1 c. yellow corn meal. 

1 c. graham flour. 

1 c. molasses. 

2 c. sweet milk. 

4 tsp. baking powder. 

1 tsp. salt. 

Mix all together and steam for three hours. 



122 



PRACTICAL COOKERY 



CHAPTER XXII. 



BREAD. 

Bread of some kind was made and used by the Egyptians, 
long before the Christian era. 

Bread is mentioned in the Book of Genesis, and for thou- 
sands of years has been the staple food of many nations, es- 
pecially the peasant element. 

The Greeks and Romans made several varieties of bread. 
History tells us of at least 60 different kinds that were made 
bv the Greeks. 

The leavened bread is far more palatable than the unleav- 
ened bread, which is still a universal food among some of the 
primitive nations of today. It is supposed that leavened 
bread was discovered by accidently working into a mass 
of dough a piece of old dough, several yeast spores having 
developed in this dough, causing the whole mass to expand 
and become light when baked. 

However. I would not advise anyone to try this method, 
as it would make a bread which would be coarse and sour. 
Our dainty palates will only tolerate the best of bread. 

The old method of simply mixing flour and water together 
has been done away with. Experience has taught us that 
doughs are made light by means of gas, which, by its ex- 
pansion, forms a spongy, porous mass. 

We have, besides soda and cream of tartar, yeast, which 
is used mostly in the making of bread. It is a tiny one-cell 
plant. 

These small yeast plants require for their growth mois- 
ture, oxygen, some nitrogenous matter, salts, carbohydrates 
and'som'e sugary substances, and a temperature of about 75 
to 80 degrees, Fahrenheit. 

Yeast is inactive at a very low temperature, and is killed 
at too high temperature. 

The yeasts most commonly used are: Liquid, dry. and 
compressed. Liquid yeast is usually made in the home from 
potato water, with a' little salt and sugar added to it and a 
few hops, and then allowing it to stand in a fairly warm place 
for a few days. 

Dry veast is sold in boxes. It will make good bread, but 
requires a longer time than the compressed yeast. 

Compressed yeast, the kind most commonly used, is man- 
ufactured from the scum which rises on the surface of fer- 
menting liquids. It is washed through several waters to re- 



PRACTICAL COOKERY 



move all coarse particles, then pressed into cakes and wrapped 
in tin-foil. 

One cake of yeast is supposed to contain about sixty bil- 
lion yeast cells. 

The essential ingredients of bread are liquid and flour, 
which should be rich in gluten. When the yeast is added, 
chemical changes wall take place. The most important will 
be the changing of most of the starch of the flour into sugar 
and the changing of the sugar into carbon dioxide. 

During the process of baking, the yeast spores are killed. 
The starch grains burst and are thoroughly cooked and the 
browning of the loaf changes some of the sugar to caramel. 

GENERAL RULES. 
BREAD. 

Use flour containing a large per cent of gluten, or a flour 
called entire or whole wheat. 

Flour should be kept in a dry place. 

If milk is used, heat it to prevent souring. 

Milk and water are both used lukewarm. 

The yeast must be fresh. 

One cake of yeast should be used with one quart, if set 
in the morning. 

Dissolve one yeast cake in one-half cup of lukewarm water. 

Loaves of bread should be baked one hour or more in a 
hot oven. 

Place on the grate 10 minutes, then remove to the floor 
of the oven. 

The heat of the oven should increase slightly during the 
first 20 minutes, and should be kept even for 20 minutes, and 
should decrease during last 20 minutes. When baked, the 
loaves should be cooled, uncovered, on a wire rack. 

Biscuits require more heat than loaves of bread. 

Bread should be kept in a clean tin box. and not expensed 
to moisture. 

BREAD. 

2 c. milk or water. 

2 tsp. salt. 

2 tsp. sugar. 

1 tbsp. lard or butter. 

Yz cake compressed yeast. 

Yi c. water. 

Flour. 

Put the water or milk, salt, sugar and fat into a bowl ; add 
the dissolved yeast, then the flour gradually. When stiff 

124 



PRACTICAL COOKERY 



enough to handle, turn the dough out on a floured board and 
knead until soft and elastic. Put it back into the bowl, mois- 
ten, cover, and let it rise in a warm place until double its 
bulk; then divide into loaves, or shape into biscuit.' Cover 
them and let them rise in the pan in which they are to be 
baked until double in bulk, then bake. 
PLAIN ROLLS. 

1 c. scalded milk. 

1 tsp. salt. 

1 tbsp. sugar. 

1 tbsp. lard. 

1 tbsp. butter. 

1 or 2 yeast cakes. 

4 c. pastry flour, or bread flour, or mixed flour. 

Pour scalded milk over salt, sugar, lard and butter, cool 
the mixture, then add the yeast, which has been made smooth 
with a little of the mixture. Add at once 3 cups of flour, mix 
and beat thoroughly ; add all the flour you can easily add 
with a spoon — about 4 cups — and set the batter to rise in a 
warm place. When it has doubled its bulk and is light and 
spongy in texture, beat it down and pour upon a floured 
board. Knead with the hand for a few moments, or until 
dough is smooth and soft, yet firm enough to be rolled or 
formed with the hands. 

Roll part of it ^ inch thick for Parker House Rolls, Flat 
Rolls, Cross Rolls (Hot Cross Buns). 

Roll part of it ^ inch thick for Twin Rolls, Crescent Rolls, 
Envelope Rolls. 

Knead a little more flour into dough with which you form 
Finger Rolls, Braided Rolls, Biscuit Rolls, Lover's Knot 
Rolls, Clover Leaf Rolls, French Rolls. 
NUT BREAD. 

1 c. oatmeal. 

1 c. boiling water. 

1 yeast cake. 

1 c. lukewarm water. 

1 c. nuts. 

1 tbsp. salt. 

2 tbsp. sugar. 
2 tbsp. lard. 

Scald oatmeal with boiling water, add sugar, salt and 
lard ; when lukewarm add yeast which has been dissolved in 
the CUD of lukewarm water. Add the water and enough flour 
to make a drop batter, beat well, then add flour to make a 
stifif dough. Knead and let rise. Knead second time, let rise. 

125 



PRACTICAL COOKERY 



Knead third time, and put in bread pans. Let rise till double 
its bulk and bake for 45 minutes or an hour. 
VELVET BISCUITS. 

1 tbsp. butter. 

3 tbsp. sugar. 

8 c. flour. " 

1 c. boiling milk. 

1 tsp. salt. 

1 yeast cake. 
3 eggs. 

Dissolve yeast in ^^ cup lukewarm water. Put in a large 
bowl, and add 1 cup of milk and four cups of flour ; do this 
at about 10 or 11 o'clock. Beat well and let rise until 2 
o'clock. Add eggs, well beaten ; butter and sugar creamed 
together, and other 4 cups of flour. Let this rise until 5 
o'clock. 

(The first time it should be a drop batter and the second 

time like biscuit dough). Then knead 20 minutes, roll out 

and cut with Ijiscuit cutter about 1 inch thick. Place one on 

top of the other. Rake about 10 minutes. 

BRAN BREAD. 

(Mrs. L. Dammert.) 

2 c. sour milk. 
1 tsp. soda. 

^2 c. molasses. 

yi c. brown sugar. 

1 egg, well beaten. 

2 c. bran. 

3 c. graham flour. 
14 tsp. salt. 

Dissolve soda in a little boiling water, add to the molasses, 
then mix all the ingredients together. Let stand 1 hour and 
iKike 1 hour and 15 minutes. One cup of raisins and 1 of 
nuts mav also be added if so desired. 

POTATO MUFFINS. 
(Mrs. Obear.) 

Three medium-sized potatoes, 1)oil and mash fine. While 
warm add 1 large tablespoon of lard and 1 large tablespoon 
of sugar and a little salt. \\'hen cool, add 1 egg, 1 cup of 
milk in which dissolve 1 yeast cake. Beat thoroughly, then 
mix enough flour to make a soft dough. Put to rise in a 
bowl well greased. Let stand until quite light. When ready 
to bake sprinkle some flour on ])read-board and roH al^xuit an 
inch thick. Do not attem])t to work into rolls. Cut with a 



PRACTICAL COOKERY 



small cutter and put about an inch apart in the pan. Let 
rise until light and bake in a quick oven. They will bake in 
a few minutes. 

SWEET FRENCH ROLLS. 
(Louise Miller.) 

1 c. milk. 

1 cake yeast (dissolved in ^ c. lukewarm water). 

%. c. sugar. 

1 tsp. salt. 

1 egg". 

34 c. melted butter. 

Scald milk when lukewarm, add the yeast and 1^ cups 
of flour, beat well, cover and let rise till light. Add the 
beaten G:gg, salt, sugar and butter and enough flour to knead 
till light. Allow to rise a second time, then shape into rolls. 

USES FOR STALE BREADS. 

DRIED BREAD CRUMBS. 

Crusts and small pieces of bread should be dried in a cool 
oven until a light brown. Roll them on a pastry board, or 
put through a meat grinder. Crumbs must be sifted. Use 
them only to cover articles of food cooked in deep fat. Crumbs 
should be kept in jars with a piece of muslin tied over them. 

CROUTONS. 

Cut pieces of stale bread into cubes, and brown in the 
oven. 

SIPPETS. 

Cut bread into thin slices, and then into strips 5 inches 
long and 1^ inches wide, and toast them. 

CANAPES. 

Cut bread into pieces 2 inches thick, cut either round or 
45^ inches long by 3 inches wide. Remove part of the bread 
from the center, butter, and brown in the oven. 

SOUP STICKS. 

Cut stale bread in y^-inch slices, remove crusts, butter, 
and cut in ^3-inch strips ; brown in the oven. 

FRENCH TOAST. 

1 or 2 eggs. 
34 tsp. salt. 
1 c. milk. 

6 or 8 slices of stale bread. 

Beat the eggs slightly, add salt and milk, dip the bread 
in the mixture. Have a griddle hot and well buttered ; brown 

127 



PRACTICAL COOKERY 



the bread on one side, place a small piece of butter on top of 
each slice, turn and brown on the other side. Serve hot with 
cinnamon and sugar or a sauce. 

TOAST. 

Cut stale bread into slices 34 inch thick ; put it on a toaster 
or fork, move it gently over the heat until dry, then allow it 
to become a light brown by placing it nearer the heat, and 
turning constantly. It may be first dried in the oven. Hot 
milk may be poured over dry toast. 

CREAM TOAST. 

2 tbsp. butter. 
2 tbsp. flour. 

1 tsp. salt. 

2 c. milk. 

6 or 8 slices of toast. 

Heat the butter, when it bubbles add the flour and salt: 
add gradually the hot milk, stirring constantly and allowing 
the mixture to thicken each time. Pour this sauce over 
slices of dry or moist toast. Moist toast is prepared by 
quickly dipping dry toast into hot salted water or hot milk. 
A richer sauce may be made by using j4 cup butter. 

ZWIEBACK. 

Cut baker's or other light l)read into 1-inch slices, and 
brown in a moderate oven. 

BREAD CASES. 

Cut slices of bread 2 inches thick and 3 inches long. Spread 
with butter and brown in the oven. 

DRY BREAD MAY BE USED FOR 

Bread Stuffing. 
Thickening Sauces. 
Covering Croquettes. 
Griddle Cakes. 
Plum Pudding. 
Cabinet Pudding. 
Baldwin Pudding. 
Brown Betty 
Japanese Fritters. 



128 



PRACTICAL COOKERY 



CHAPTER XXIII. 



PIES. 

A pie is a quantity of meat or fruit baked in a shallow 
dish and covered with a layer of paste. There may be a 
layer of the paste under the meat or fruit as well as on 
the top. 

The famous tarts of England are usually baked in a deep 
dish with a rich crust on top ; they are noted for the variety 
they make, with filling of every kind of fruit, fish and flesh. 
The crusts, most of them, are thick and made with suet, 
which makes a delicate and flaky crust. 

Pastrv mav be classified under three heads — 

Plain. 

1. Shortening mixed into the flour by chopping or with 
the tips of the fingers. 

Puff. 

2. Shortening worked into a paste of flour and water by 
folding and rolling. 

Flaky. 

3. Shortening mixed into the flour by a combination of 
the first two methods. 

GENERAL RULES. 

All of the materials must be as cool as possible. 

Pastry flour should be used 

The following fats may be used alone or in combination? 
of two : butter, butterine, lard. The fat should not be cut 
very fine, if a flaky crust is desired. Baking powder is some- 
times used. 

The dough should be mixed with a knife and not touched 
with the hands. It should be rolled in one direction only, 
and on one side, using but little flour. The dough is rolled 
thin and baked until brown. 

All pies made with fresh fruit should be made without an 
under-crust, and cooked in a deep earthenware plate. Fill the 
plate very full. If sugar is used with .fruit pies, it should be 
placed on the bottom of the pie plate. Meat and oyster pies 
should also be made without an under-crust. The crust should 
be cut in several places to allow the steam to escape. 

If an under-crust is used, this crust should be baked on 
the outside of a tin plate, then filled. In this case, the crust 
must be pricked all over with a fork so that it mav keep its 
shape. 

If two crusts are used, the lower one should be moistened 



PRACTICAL COOKERY 



around the edgt with cold water, then a half-inch strip of 
paste should be placed around the edge of the under-crust. 
This strip should also be moistened, and the upper crust 
placed over the pie and pressed slightly around the edge. 

The paste may be made the day before using, then cov- 
ered and placed on ice. It rolls more easily if placed on ice 
after mixing. 

PLAIN PASTRY. 

134 c. pastry fiour. 

1 tsp. baking powder (if used). 

14 tsp. salt. 

Ys or >4 c. fat. 

Ice water. 

Mix in the order given. 

FLAKY PASTRY. 

3 c. flour, 

^ tsp. salt. 

^ c. shortening. 

^ to ^ c. water. 

Y c. washed butter. 

Wash the butter and set aside as for puff-paste. With a 
knife or the tips of the fingers work the half-cup of shorten- 
ing into the flour and salt. When the mixture looks like 
meal, add the cold water, gradually, and with a knife mix to 
a paste as in plain pastry ; knead slightly, cover and let stand 
five minutes, then pat with the rolling-pin and roll out into a 
rectangular sheet. Fold in the butter as in puff-paste, and 
give the paste two or three "turns," allowing it to stand five 
minutes between each turn. This pastry may be used at 
once. If set awa}^ for future use, cover closely to exclude the 
air and avoid the forming of a crust. 

PUFF-PASTE. 

1 lb. flour. 

1 lb. butter. 

1 tsp. lemon-juice. 

About y3 pint cold water. 

Method. — Wash and .•■queeze the butter in cold warer. dry 
well in a floured cloth, shape into a square about the size of 
a slice of sandwich bread, and keep in a cool place while the 
paste is being prepared. Sieve the flour on to a marble slab 
or board, make a well in the center, put in the lemon-juice, 
and add water gradually until a smooth paste is formed. The 
condition of the butter determines the consistency ; when 
soft, the paste must be equally so. Knead the paste until 

130 



PRACTICAL COOKERY 



smooth, then roll it out into a strip a little wider than the 
butter, and rather more than twice its length. Place the but- 
ter on one half of the paste, fold the other half over, enclos- 
ing the butter entirely, and press the edges together with the 
rolling-pin. Let it remain in a cool place for about 15 min- 
utes, then roll out to about three times the original length, 
but keeping the width the same, and fold exactly in three. 
Turn the paste round so that the folded edges are on the 
right and left, roll and fold again, and put aside for 15 min- 
utes. Repeat this until the paste has been rolled out six 
times. The rolling should be done as evenly as possible, and 
the paste kept in a long, narrow shape which, when folded, 
forms a square. Each time the paste is rolled out, it may be 
well sprinkled with flour, but it must be evenly distributed 
with a paste-brush, and all the loose flour carefully brushed 
off before beginning to roll. When the paste has had its 
sixth roll, it is ready for use ; it should be baked in a hot oven, 
and until the paste has risen and become partially baked, the 
oven door should not be opened, because a current of cold air 
may cause the flakes to collapse on one side. 
SUET CRUST. 

2 c. flour. 

1 tsp. salt. 

1 tsp. baking powder. 

1 c. suet, chopped fine. 

Enough ice water to make it hold together, sift dry ingre- 
dients together, add suet, then the water. This makes a good 
crust for meat pies or dumplings. 

CRUST FOR MEAT PIE. 

6 tbsp. melted butter, beat well. 

1 c. sweet milk. 

2 c. flour. 

3 tsp. baking powder. 
^ tsp. salt. 

Mix all well together, and spread on top of pie, or use as 
short cake. 

NEAR PUFF-PASTE. 

% c. lard. 

2 c. flour. 

1 tsp. salt. 

^ c. well-washed butter. 

Sift flour and salt together. Rub lard in with fingers 
until it is in very fine crumbs. Chop in butter with a knife 



PRACTICAL COOKERY 



and just enough water so that it can be rolled. Then roll up 
in a tight roll. Press down from top of roll till flat. Then 
roll again (always away from you). End in a roll. After 
three times wrap in cheese cloth and put in ice chest for a 
few hours. 

APPLE PIE. 
Wipe and cut tart apples into eighths ; remove the cores 
and skins. \'ary the amount of sugar according to the acid- 
ity of the apples, using 2 tablespoons or more for an apple. 
If the apples are not juicy, add from 3-<^ to 1 tablespoon of 
water, according to the size of the apple. The apples may 
be flavored with lemon juice, cinnamon or nutmeg, and should 
be covered with bits of butter. Bake until the apples are soft 
and the crust is brown. 

MOCK MINCE PIE. 

54 c. cracker crumbs. 

54 c. sugar. 

54 c. molasses. 

% c. lemon juice or vinegar. 

Yz c. raisins, seeded and chopped. 

54 c. butter, or 5<2 c. suet. 

1 ^%^, well beaten. 
Spice. 

Mix ingredients in order gi\en. Add si)ices to taste, and 
bake between crusts ; or cook, add eggs last and bake be- 
tween two crusts. 

APPLE DUMPLING. 
Crust. 

2 c. flour. 
Yz tsp. salt. 

1 tsp. baking powder. 

Yz c. lard. 

Enough ice water or milk to make a stiff dough. Sift drv 
ingredients together, cut in the lard with a knife, then add 
water or milk, then roll about Y^ inch thick, then cut into 
large rounds, large enough to almost cover apples ; then cut 
out small rounds to fit the top of apple, joining the edges to- 
gether neatly to make a smooth surface. Make two or three 
small cuts in the top of crust to allow escape of steam, brusVi 
over top with melted butter and bake till a good golden browMi. 

The apple should be peeled and cored. For 6 apples al- 
low 15^ cups sugar, 5^ teaspoon salt, 1 tablespoon butter and 
a little grated nutmeg and Y^ cups water. The apple should 
be steamed in this syrup until soft, being careful not to al- 

132 



PRACTICAL COOKERY 



low them to break in pieces. Allow the apples to cool before 
covering with the pastry. Serve with hard sauce and syrup 
in which apples were cooked, or serve with cream 

FRUIT PIE. 

(Mrs. M. C. Crawley.) 

Make a rich pie dough and line pie tin, pinching up the 
dough all around the edge to make a deep pie. Wash a 
box of blackberries and drain, then add 2 scant tablespoons 
flour, yolks of 2 eggs and sugar to taste, and mix thoroughly. 
Put this mixture in the previously arranged crust and bake. 
Make a meringue of the two whites, beating them until dry 
and stilT, then add 2 tablespoons sugar and beat again until 
real stifif, and when the pie is done put on the meringue and 
brown. When the pie is taken finally from the oven, slip it 
on to a plate. If the meringue is well beaten before and after 
the sugar is added, it will stand up, and be an inch thick. The 
crust will bake with the fruit, not separately. 

One can use strawberries, raspberries, huckleberries, etc., 
as well as peaches, apricots, cherries and pineapples. 

CUSTARD PIE. 

2 eggs. 

3 tbsp. sugar. 
}i tsp. salt. 
1^ c. milk. 

Few ^-ratings nutmeg. 

Beat eggs slightly, add sugar, salt and milk. Line plate 
with paste, and build up a fluted rim. Strain in the mixture 
and sprinkle with a few gratings of nutmeg. Bake in quick 
oven at first to set rim, decrease the heat afterwards and 
cook at low tem])erature. 

PUMPKIN PIE. 

1 c. cooked pumpkin. 

2 c. milk. 
2 eggs. 

}i tsp. ginger. 

y2 c. sugar. 

y2 tsp. salt. 

^ tsp. grated nutmeg. 

Beat egg slightly, add pumpkin and seasoning, then the 
milk. Line a pie plate with rich crust. Pour in the mixture 
and bake one hour in a moderate oven. 



PRACTICAL COOKERY 



MINCE MEAT. 

(Mrs. Plumridge.) 
5 lbs. chopped beef. 
1 pk. tart apples. 
4 lbs. currants. 

1 lb. citron. 
4 lbs. raisins. 

2 qts. brown sugar. 
2 qts. molasses. 

2 qts. cider. 

2 lbs. chopped suet. 

1 tbsp. salt. 

1 tbsp. cinnamon. 

2 nutmegs. 

2 tbsp. cloves. 

2 tbsp. cloves. 

2 tbsp. ginger. 

2 tbsp. allspice. 

Scald well, and it will keep for a long time. 

MINCE MEAT MADE WITH NUTS. 

2 lbs. raisins. 
1 lb. currants. 

1 lb. shelled English walnuts. 

3 c. sugar. 
Yz lb. citron. 

Juice of 3 oranges, juice of 3 lemons. (Grated rind of 1 
orange and 1 lemon.) 

4 lbs. apples, cut fine. 
1 tsp. salt. 

1 tsp. cinnamon. 
1 nutmeg. 
Yi tsp. cloves. 

Enough cider to blend it well together. Cook one hour 
and seal. 

LEMON RAISIN PIE. 

1 large lemon. 

1 c. sugar. 
Yi. c. raisins. 

2 tbsp. flour. 

1 tbsp. butter. 

1 c. water. 

Spk. salt. 

Cream butter, add sugar, flour and salt, then the lemon 



PRACTICAL COOKERY 



juice, water and raisins, and bake with two crusts in a mod- 
erate oven about three-quarters of an hour. 

CHESS CAKE. 

(Mrs. Moreno.) 

2 eggs. 

1 c. sugar. 
1 small tbsp. butter. 
3^2 c. milk. 

Yt. c. chopped citron. 

Flavor with nutmeg and bake with one crust; this makes 
one pie. 

LEMON PIE. 

1 c. boiling water. 
Y\. c. sugar. 

3 tbsp. corn starch. 

1 tbsp. butter. 

2 eggs. 

Juice and grated rind of one lemon. 

Mix sugar and corn starch together, pour in boiling water 
slowly to avoid lumping. Cook till thick. Beat yolk of eggs 
and pour into the yolk the hot mixture, return to the fire and 
cook for a few moments, then add butter and the lemon juice 
and grated rind. Pour into a pie shell which has been previ- 
ously baked. Beat whites of eggs stiff, add 3 tablespoonfuls of 
powdered sugar and 34 tablespoonful vanilla ; beat well and 
spread on top of pie. Place in a moderate oven long enough 
to brown the top. 



135 



PRACTICAL COOKERY 



CHAPTER XXIV. 



CAKES. 

Cakes might be classified under batters and doughs. But 
most cakes are much richer in their composition than the 
light breads which are usually classified under the batters and 
doughs. 

There are two classes of cakes — butter cakes and sponge 
cakes. Sponge cakes include angel and sunshine cakes. Ex- 
amples of butter cakes are cup cakes, pound cakes, etc. 

In making cakes use only the best material — good butter, 
fresh eggs and finely granulated or powdered sugar. 

Butter cakes are varied by changing the flavoring, by 
adding nuts, fruits, chocolate or spices. For chocolate cake 
melt the chocolate over hot water and add afterwards the 
yolks of the eggs. Dredge raisins and currants with flour and 
add to the mixture just before the egg whites. 

The oven must be ready for baking, the pans thoroughly 
greased. 

Sift flour before measuring; pastry flour sliould be used. 
The flour and baking powder must be mixed and sifted 
several times, and if spices are used, they should be sifted 
with the flour. Powdered or fine granulated sugar may be 
used. Cream the butter, add the sugar gradually. The yolks 
and whites of the eggs should be beaten separately, and the 
yolks added to the butter and sugar. The bowl in which they 
are beaten should be rinsed with the milk. The milk and 
flour are added alternately, then the flavoring, and the whites 
of the eggs. When fruit is used, save a little flour to cover 
it, and add just before the whites of the eggs. 

Bake cake from 20 to 40 minutes, or until it shrinks from 
the pan. \\Mien taken from the oven, allow it to remain in the 
pan about 3 minutes. 

Lard or fat may be used in gingerbread. 

SPONGE CAKE. 

5 eggs. 
1 c. sugar. 
1 tsp. lemon juice. 
Rind of half lemon. 
1^4 c. flour. 
J4 tsp. salt. 

Beat the yolks until light and lemon colored, add the sugar 
gradually and continue beating, then the leiiit^n juice and 



PRACTICAL COOKERY 



rind and the flour, which has been sifted two or three tmies 
Fold in the whites of the egg, which have been laeaten until 
stiff. The salt should be added to the egg whites before 

beating. 

SUNSHINE CAKE. 

7 eggs (whites). 
5 eggs (yolks). 
1 c. fine granulated sugar. 
1 c. flour measured after sifting 5 times. 
14 tsp. cream tartar. 

1 tsp. orange extract. . , , • , r u a 

Beat yolks thick and set aside. Add pmch of salt and 
cream of tartar to whites of eggs and beat stiff ; add sugar 
'ind beat well, then add flavoring and beaten yolks and stir 
lightlv. Last, carefully stir in flour. Bake m tube pan m 
moderate oven 40 or 50 minutes. 

ANGEL CAKE. 
(Mrs. A. T. Morey.) 
Whites of 8 eggs. 
ly^ c. sugar (sifted 3 times). 
1 c. flour (sifted 5 times). 
y3 tsp. cream tartar. 
1 tsp. vanilla. 

Spk. of salt. J J 4.1 

Add the salt to the eggs and beat to a foam; add the 
cream of tartar and beat until stiff. Sift in the sugar, beating 
all the time. Sift in the flour, slowly mixing it with a ight. 
folding motion. Add the vanilla. Bake in an unbuttered pan 
in a slow oven one hour. 

BUTTER CAKE. 
Yz c. butter. 

1 c. sugar. 

2 eggs. 

I/2 c. milk. 

2 c. flour. 

2^ tsp. baking powder. 

y tsp. vanilla. 

Cream the butter, add the sugar graduallv, then the egg^, 
well beaten, beating the mixture all the while to keep the 
consistency the same. Add the vanilla, then at the same time 
one-third of the milk and one-third of the flour, beating well. 
Sift in the last third of the flour containing the baking pow- 
der, and mix well before adding the last portion of milk. 
Bake in shallow cake pans, and put together with different 
frostings or fillings, from which the cake takes it name. 



137 



PRACTICAL COOKERY 



BLACK CHOCOLATE CAKE. 

(Helen Andrews.) 
2 squares chocolate, grated. 
Yz c. milk. 
Yolk of 1 ^%g. 

Boil this together until stiff, and add when cool — 
y^ c. butter. 
3^ c. sour milk. 
2 small c. sugar. 
2 eggs, or yolks of 6. 
2 c. flour. 

1 tsp. soda. 
Flavor with vanilla. 
Bake in moderate oven. 

CANADIAN FRUIT CAKE. 

(Mrs. E. V. Roy.) 
Y\ c. butter. 

2 c. sugar. 

3 eggs. 

•}4 tsp. cloves. 

]/\ tsp. mace. 

1 tsp. allspice. 

■>4 tsp. soda. 

1 c. milk. 

3 c. flour. 

1 tsp. cream of tartar. 

1 c. sliced citron peel. 

1 lb. raisins. 

Yz lb. shelled walnuts. 

Cream butter, add sugar and beaten eggs. Sift dry ingre- 
dients together. Alternate flour and milk, little at a time. 
Dust fruit with flour. Bake three hours in slow oven. 

ORANGE CAKE. 

(C. S. Monitor.) 
y^ c. butter. 

1 c. sugar. 

2 eggs, well beaten. 
1/2 c. milk. 

1^ c. flour. 

2^ tsp. baking powder. 

Make in the ordinary way and bake in two layers. 

ORANGE FILLING. 

Yi. c. sugar. 
2Y2 tbsp. flour. 



PRACTICAL COOKERY 



Grated rind of Yi. orange. 

Yz c. orange juice. 

Yz tbsp. lemon juice. 

1 ^^^, slightly beaten. 

1 tbsp. butter. 

Cook ten minutes in double boiler, stirring constantly. 
Put between the layers, cover top with orange frosting. 
ORANGE FROSTING. 

Grated rind of 1 orange, add Y^ teaspoon lemon juice and 
2 tablespoons orange juice. Let stand 15 minutes. Then add 
to the yolk of an t^^, slightly beaten ; then stir in enough con- 
fectioners' sugar until right consistency to spread. 

SEED CAKE. 
(Mrs. Arthur Masse.) 

4 eggs. 

1 c. butter. 

2 c. sugar. 
1 c. milk. 

1 tsp. baking powder. 

3 c. flour. 
Caraway seed to taste. 

Preserved citron or mixed peel may be used for half the 
mixture, if desired. 

The above recipe makes two small cakes or one large loaf 
cake. 

BLACK FRUIT CAKE. 
(Mrs. Plumridge.) 

2 lbs. raisins. 
2 lbs. currants. 

2 lbs. French prunes, sliced. 
1 lb. citron. 

1 lb. chopped almonds. 

% lb. butter. 

1 lb. brown sugar. 

1 lb. browned flour. 

Y2 lb. figs. 

12 eggs. 

3 lemons. 

1 c. molasses. 
Ya orange peel. 
1 c. rose water. 

1 tbsp. cloves, cinnamon, allspice. 

2 tbsp. soda. 

2 grated nutmegs. 

139 



PRACTICAL COOKERY 



Soak spices 24 hours in pint cider; boil lemon till straw 
will pierce them. Flour fruit. Alix flour, sugar, molasses, 
butter and eggs, but do not beat ; add dissolved soda in 3"2 
cup of milk, then spice and cider, then lemons, chopped Hne ; 
last, the floured fruit. Bake in slow oven four hours. 

MOCK ANGEL FOOD CAKE. 

1 c. flour. 

1 c. sugar. 

3 tsp. baking powder. (Sift flour and l)aking powder four 
times.) 

1 c. boiling milk. 

Beat until smooth, flavor and fold in lightly the beaten 
whites of two eggs. 

APPLE SAUCE CAKE. 

1 c. sugar. 

Yi c. butter (creamed). 

1 c. hot apple sauce (unsweetened). 

1 tsp. cinnamon. 

^ tsp. ground cloves. 

Nutmeg and salt. 

1 tsp. soda. 

3/2 tsp. baking powder. 

l-)4 c. flour. 

1 c. raisins. 

1 c. nuts. 

Bake 45 minutes in slow oven. 







MARBLE 


; CAKE. 






White 


Part. 




Whites of 2 eggs. 








Va 


c. • sugar. 








Va 


c. butter. 








Va 


c. sweet milk. 








1 c 


'.. flour. 








1 tsp. baking powder. 










Dark 


Part. 




Yo 


ilks of 2 eggs. 








V2 


c. sugar. 








Ya 


c. molasses. 








Ya 


c. butter. 








Ya 


c. sweet milk. 








Y 


tsp. each of cl 


oves, cinnamon 


ana nnrmeg. 


^Ya 


[ c. flour. 








1 1 


arge tsp. baking powder. 







PRACTICAL COOKERY 



Bake in round angel food pan. Drop one spoonful of 
white, then the dark, till all is used. 

ROLLED OAT CAKES. 

(Mrs. Masse.) 
1 tbsp. butter. 

1 c. sugar. 

2 eggs. 
Little salt. 

2 c. rolled oats. 

Cream the butter and sugar together, then add eggs and 
flavor. 

Shape with the hands into tiny cakes, and bake in quick 
oven. 

BROWN SUGAR COOKIES. 

^ c. butter. 

% c. brown sugar. 

1 cup rolled oats. 
}i English walnuts. 
1 c. flour. 

1 tsp. baking powder. 

Cream butter, add sugar, beaten egg, rolled oats, nuts 
and flour and baking powder. Roll ^ inch thick and cut. 
Bake about 15 minutes. 

NUT SQUARES. 

1 ^gg- 

1 c. brown sugar. 
% tsp. soda. 
Pinch of salt. 

1 c. nuts. 

6 tbsp. flour. 

Beat Qgg light, add sugar; sift dry ingredients and add to 
the sugar and nuts. Spread in baking pan about an inch 
thick. Bake for 25 minutes. Cut in squares. 

PEANUT COOKIES. 

2 tbsp. butter. 
54 c. sugar. 

1 ^gg- 

1 tsp. baking powder. 
% tsp. salt. 

]/2 c. flour. 

2 tbsp. milk. 

J/2 c. finely clvjpped peanuts 
J/2 tsp. lemon juice. 



PRACTICAL COOKERY 



Cream the butter, add sugar, and egg well beaten. Mix 
and sift dry ingredients ; add to first mixture ; then add milk, 
peanuts and lemon juice. Drop from a teaspoon on an unbut- 
tered sheet one inch apart, and place one-half peanut on top 
of each. Bake 12 to 15 minutes in a slow oven. 
NUT COOKIES. 
(Miss Grace Holmes.) 

lJ/'2 c. sugar. 

1 c. butter. 

3 well-beaten eggs. 

3 c. flour, or 1 cup ground Quaker oats and 2 c. flour. 
J/2 lb. chopped pecan meats. 

1 c. raisins. 

y2 tsp. salt. 

1 tsp. soda, dissolved in 3 tbsp. boiling water. 

1 tsp. cinnamon. 

1 tsp. vanilla. 

Drop in buttered tins, and place in medium oven. 

DEVIL'S FOOD. 
Yz c. butter. 
1 c. sugar. 

4 eggs. 

1 c. sugar. 

2^ c. flour. 

4 tbsp. baking powder. 

1 c. milk. 

1 tsp. vanilla. 

2 squares chocolate. 

Beat half a cup of butter to a cream, gradually beat in 1 
cup of sugar ; beat the yolks of 4 eggs until light, and add in 
1 cup of sugar ; then add to the butter and sugar ; add alter- 
nately 1 cup of milk and 23/5 cups of flour, sifted with 4 level 
teaspoonfuls of baking powder. Add 2 squares of melted 
chocolate, a teaspoon of vanilla and, lastly, the beaten whites 
of 4 eggs. Bake in lavers or loaf. 

NUT CAKE. 

Yz c. butter. 

1 c. sugar. 

2 eggs. 

Yz c. milk. 

2 c. flour. 

IH tsp. baking powder. 

1 c. raisins. 

1 c. walnuts. 

Bake in moderate oven for a little over one hour. 



PRACTICAL COOKERY 



GINGER BREAD. 

(Mrs. C. N. Stevens.) 
^ c. butter. 
Yz c. sugar. 
1/2 c. molasses. 
Yz c. sour milk. 
2 c. flour. 

2 eggs. 

1 tsp. soda. 

J4 tsp. salt. 

y2 tsp. ginger. 

1 tsp. cinnamon. 

Mix in usual manner; bake in square cake pan. Take 
great care not to have oven too hot, as a cake containing 
molasses will burn very quickly. 

ROCKS. 
(Mrs. M. C. Crawley.) 

\y2 c. brown sugar. 

1 c. butter (part lard if desired). 

3 eggs, beaten. 
Scant c. raisins. 
Scant c. chopped nuts. 
2^ c. flour. 

1 small tsp. soda. 

1 small tsp. cinnamon. 

1 small tsp. cloves. 

Drop in buttered tins. No liquid is added ; the butter and 
sugar, with the eggs, make enough wetting, as they must be 
stiff enough not to run on the tins. One-quarter of a tea- 
spoon of dough will make a good-sized rock. 
BOSTON COOKIES. 

Yy c. butter. 

1 c. sugar. 

3 eggs. 

1 tsp. soda. 

1^ tbsp. boiling water. 

ZYa c. flour. 

Y\ tsp. salt. 

1 tsp. cinnamon. 

1 c. chopped walnuts. 

1 c. currants. 

Yj c. raisins. 

Cream butter, add sugar and beaten ^^%. Soda dissolved 
in boiling water; then add half of the flour sifted with dry 
ingredients. Dust fruit with small portion of flour, and add, 

143 



PRACTICAL COOKERY 



with nuts, to the mixture. Then add remainder of flour. Drop 
by spoonfuls and bake 15 minutes. 

MARSHMA1.LOW DAINTIES. 

Take small soda crackers and spread with butter. Place 
marshmallow on top of crackers. Sprinkle with little cinna- 
mon. Place tiny piece of butter on top of marshmallow. Put 
in a very hot oven until marshmallows are melted. 
PLAIN COOKIES. 

Yz c. butter. 

Yz c. lard. 

I c. sugar. 
. 4 eggs. 

1 tsp. soda. 

Y2 tsp. salt. 

Y2 tsp. nutmeg. 

Cream butter and lard, add sugar and beaten eggs ; then 
1 cup flour sifted with dry ingredients ; then more flour to 
make a stiflf dough ; roll about 54-iiich thick and cut with bis- 
cuit cutter, and bake in quick oven. They will keep crisp for 
several weeks. 

DOUGHNUTS. 

- eggs. 

1 c. sugar. 

4 tbsp. melted lard. 
•)4 c. sour milk. 

2 c. flour. 
Y2 tsp. salt. 
Y2 tsp. soda. 

1 tsp. baking powder. 

Grated nutmeg. 

Beat eggs till light, then add sugar and melted lard (which 
must be barely melted and not hot) ; beat well together, and 
add milk and the dry ingredients sifted together. Beat well 
for a few minutes till quite light ; add enough flour so that 
the dough may be rolled out about -XJ-inch thick. Cut with 
doughnut cutter. Do not work in too much flour in rerolling 
the dough. The secret of good doughnuts is to keep the 
dough soft. Roll and cut them all before trying to frv them. 
This will allow a sort of crust to form on the outside and 
prevent fat from soaking through. Fill a skillet about three- 
fourths full of lard ; Avhen boiling hot, drop in doughnuts, 
cjuickly low^er the heat, turn doughnuts over just once, drain 
on brown paper. Every time the doughnuts are added to the 
lard the heat must be raised for a few minutes, then lowered. 



PRACTICAL COOKERY 



These will keep fresh about a week, if kept in a closed stone 
jar. Roll in powdered sugar before serving. 

ICINGS. 

Cakes should be iced when cold. Otherwise the grease 
on the cake will come through the icing. 

It is an excellent plant in icing an elaborate cake, to put 
on first a layer of fondant. 

Do not add flavoring to icing. It will prevent it from get- 
ting stiff. The oil in the extract is an enemy to icing. 

Fondant icing is better for small cakes, as it will cut better. 

Cut hot cakes, bread and puff paste with a hot knife. Hot 
bread and cakes may also be cut with a heavy thread. 

Icing is not only used for decorative purposes, but also 
as a help towards keeping cakes fresh. 

A cake that is to be kept several months is best covered 
with a thick layer of almond paste. 

The process of forcing frosting or icing through a bag with 
tube attached, so as to trace a design upon the cake, is called 
piping. 

A frosted cake is decorated with piping alone ; or coarse- 
colored sugars, citron, glace fruits, nuts, small candies and 
fruit jellies are combined with the piping. 

MATERIALS FOR UNCOOKED ICING. 

With the exception of the syrup for chocolate icing, which 
is made of granulated sugar, and which might be classed 
among the cooked icings, all uncooked icings are made of 
confectioner's sugar. 

ALMOND PASTE (for Cakes, etc.). 

4 ozs. ground almonds. 

6 ozs. loaf sugar. 

1 white of egg. 

Lemon juice. 

Put the sugar with 1 tablespoon of water and a 
teaspoon of lemon juice into a stew pan ; bring to the boil- 
ing point, skim well, and boil to the "ball point.*' Pour the 
syrup on to the ground almonds, add about one-half the white 
of egg, mix well together, and use as required. 
ICE CREAM ICING. 

The whites of 2 eggs. 

^2 c. confectioner's sugar. 

yi tsp. vanilla extract. 

Beat the whites of the eggs until foamv ; then beat in. 
gradually, the sugar; add the flavoring, and l)eat the mixture 

145 



PRACTICAL COOKERY 



until it is very smooth and glossy. This makes a very soft 
icing. It is used principally on white layer cakes, as tilling 
and icing. It spreads easily upon the sides of the cake. 

BUTTER CREAM. 

J4 c. best butter. 

1^ c. confectioner's sugar. 

Flavoring. 

White of 1 egg. 

Beat butter till creamy ; add sugar gradually, and beat 
well; then add beaten white of egg, and keep on beating; then 
flavor. Use any flavoring desired. 

One-fourth cup of grated chocolate added to this will make 
a delicious chocolate icing. 

BOILED FROSTING. 

1 c. granulated sugar. 

^ c. cold water. 

White of 1 egg. 

yi tsp. cream tartar. 

Boil the sugar and water, without stirring, until the syrup 
will "thread" or "rope." When it is nearly at that point, beat 
the egg "stiff"; add the cream of tartar, and pour the boiling 
syrup in a fine stream, beating well. When it thickens and is 
perfectly smooth, pour it over the cake. It hardens quickly, 
and should be put on the cake before it stiffens enough to 
drop. 

MARSHMALLOW FILLING. 

Make boiled icing as above, using whites of 4 eggs instead 
of 1. As soon as syrup has been poured over eggs, add ^4 1^- 
marshmallows. cut in quarters, and beat until stiff. Be cer- 
tain that the marshmallows are very fresh. 

CHOCOLATE CREAM FILLING. 

Boil 1}4 cups sugar and jA cup cream together until it 
makes a soft ball in water. Do not stir. Just before remov- 
ing from the fire add a pinch of cream of tartar. Let stand 
until nearly cool, add vanilla and beat, spread on cake. Melt 
plain chocolate, and spread on top, after cream filling has 
hardened. 

CHOCOLATE FUDGE FROSTING. 

1 square chocolate. 

1 c. sugar. 

6 tsp. cold water. 

1 tbsp. butter. 

1 spk. salt and cinnamon. 

146 



PRACTICAL COOKERY 



Boil for 15 minutes, remove from fire and slightly cool; 
add 1 teaspoon vanilla and beat till thick enough to spread. 

MAPLE SUGAR FROSTING. 

1 heaping c. maple sugar. 

1 c. boiling water. 
■ 1 white of egg. 

Pinch of cream of tartar. 

Put maple sugar and water into a sauce-pan ; when boil- 
ing, add the cream of tartar, and boil until it forms a soft 
ball when tried in cold water. Pour onto the beaten white of 
egg, and continue beating until of a consistency to spread be- 
tween cakes. 

ORANGE FILLING. 

Yolks of 3 eggs. 

1 c. sugar. 

2 tbsp. flour. 

Juice and rind of 1 orange and jA lemon. 

Lump of butter, size of walnut. 

Boil together until thick. When cold spread on cake. 



147 



PRACTICAL COOKERY 



CHAPTER XXV. 



DESSERTS. 

The subject of desserts is an important one, and, like the 
salad, the dessert should be one of the daintiest parts of the 
meal. If a rich fruit pudding or a mince pie or a very heavy 
cream dessert is planned for a certain meal, the other courses 
preceding it should be very light in their composition — per- 
haps a very light broth with chops or steak and vegetables, 
that contain little starch. 

The human stomach is capable of just so much. It is un- 
wise to overtax it with a rich dessert on top of a heavy meal. 
One will never go far wrong if one uses fruits of different 
kinds, with perhaps a little cream and a light cake for the 
dessert, and, if so desired, afterwards crackers and cheese may 
be served. 

(lelatine forms the basis of a number of attractive and 
wholesome desserts, (ielatine, as we have found in the chap- 
ter on meats, is the substance which is extracted from the 
bone, skin and connective tissues of the animal. These sub- 
stances are changed into gelatine by cooking for several hours 
in boiling water. The connective tissues of the young ani- 
mals are especially rich in gelatine-yielding material. Calves' 
feet yield a pure form of gelatine. But the purest form is isin- 
glass, a kind of gelatine obtained from the bladder of the 
sturgeon. When first softened by soaking in cold water, 
gelatine will dissolve readily in boiling liquids, hardening or 
stiffening to a jelly when cold. Do not cook the gelatine. 
Boiling will change it so that it will not stififen. 
FRUIT GELATINE. 

1 ])kg. gelatine dissolved in }'j c. cold water. 

2 c. cold water. 
1 c. sugar. 

Juice of one lemon. 

Yz c. pineapple cut in dice. 

1 banana neatly cut. 

}) oranges cut in sections. 

Yz c. preserved cherries. 

Vi c. pecans cut in halves. 

Boil sugar, water and lemon juice ; then add dissolved 
gelatine ; when partly cool add fruit, turn into a wet mold ; 
allow to stand till jellied ; more fruit may be added. The 
juice of the fruit may be added to the gelatine, which will 
improve the flavor. Serve with cream. 

148 



PRACTICAL COOKERY 



ORANGE CUSTARD. 

6 oranges. 
Yi c. sugar. 

2 c. milk. 
Yi c. sugar. 

3 tbsp. corn starch. 
y2 tsp. salt. 

Yz tsp. vanilla. 

2 eggs. 

Cut oranges in uniform slices, put in a glass dish. Pour 
ov'er the oranges Yz cuj) sugar; let stand in a cool place. 

Beat yolks of eggs light and add milk to eggs. Mix sugar 
and corn starch together and pour o.^^ mixture into it slowly. 
being careful not to have any lumps. Pour in double boiler 
and cook till thick, stirring constantly. When custard is cool 
pour over oranges. Beat white stiff, add 2 tablespoons of 
pulverized sugar, and spread over custard ; decorate top with 
slices of oranges. 

CHOCOLATE PUDDIN^ 

2 tbsp. butter. 
Yz c. sugar. 

2 eggs. 

Yi. c. milk. 
Y2 c. flour. 

3 tsp. baking powder. 
XYz squares chocolate. 
% tsp. salt. 

Cream the butter ; add the sugar and eggs beaten light. 
Beat all well together; then add milk slowly; then add the 
flour, sifted with the dry ingredients. Add the melted choco- 
late the last thing and steam one hour. Serve with vanilla 
sauce. 

VANILLA S/*^^*"^ 

Y2 c. sugar. 

1 c. boiling water. 

1 tbsp. corn starch. 

2 tbsp. butter. 
1 tsp. vanilla. 
Ya tsp. salt. 

A little grated nutmeg. 

Mix sugar and corn starch, add water slowly, add salt and 
nutmeg; cook for 10 minutes; remove from fire and add but- 
ter and vanilla. 

SNOW PUDDING. 

Y2 pk. gelatine, dissolved in ^ c. cold water. 

149 



PRACTICAL COOKERY 



2 c. cold water. 

1 c. sugar. 
Juice of 2 lemons. 
Whites of 3 eggs. 

Boil water, sugar and lemon juice together; then add gela- 
tine. When partly stiff beat with an egg beater till light; 
then add beaten whites and beat altogether till stiff and white 
like snow. Pour in wet mold. Serve with custard sauce. 
CUSTARD SAUCE FOR SNOW PU MNG. 

Yolks of 3 eggs. 

2 c. milk. 
34 tsp. salt. 
Yz c. sugar. 
Lemon flavoring. 

Heat milk in double boiler ; add milk slowly to the beaten 
yolks of eggs; then add sugar and salt and cook for just a 
few seconds. Then add flavoring; remove at once from the 
vessel in which it was cooked, or else it will cause the custard 
to have a curdle appearance. This sauce may be served with 
a number of desserts. 

ORANGE CHARLOTTE RUSSE. 

Yz c. orange juice. 

^ c. sugar. 

Yz c. water. 

2 eggs. 

1^ tbsp. gelatine, dissolved in Ya c. cold water. 

1 pt. double cream (whipped). 

Boil orange juice, sugar and water together. Beat yolks 
of eggs very light, stir into the eggs the hot mixture; then 
return to fire and cook until the mixture will coat the spoon. 
Remove from fire, add dissolved gelatine, strain and set in 
ice water till partly thick ; then add beaten whites of egg 
and the cream. Pour in molds. Decorate with slices of 
oranges or ladv fingers. 

MAPLE CHARLOTTE RUSSE. 

1 tbs]i. gelatine, dissolved in '4 c. cold water. 

4 eggs. 

1 c. maple syrup. 

1 pt. dc^uble cream. 

Beat yolks of eggs slightly, add maple svrup and cook 
o\er slow fire, stirring constantly till it thickens ; remove 
from fire, add gelatine, allow to cool, stirring occasionally 
to keep from forming hard lumps. Whip the cream and 
add to the cream the beaten whites of eggs ; then add slowlv 



PRACTICAL COOKERY 



the gelatine mixture ; mix well together. Line a charlotte 

mold with lady fingers or stale light cake, and pour in the 

mixture ; let stand for 24 hours before serving. 

FRIED CREAM. 

(Mrs. C. N. Stevens.) 

2 c. milk. 

^ c. sugar. 

1 tbsp. butter. 

Yolks 3 eggs. 

1 tbsp. corn starch. 

1 tbsp. flour. 

1 tsp. vanilla. 

^ tsp. salt. 

Stock cinnamon 1 inch long. 

Cook the cinnamon in the milk. Mix sugar, flour and 
corn starch together ; mix with the hot milk and cook till 
thick; remove from fire and add the beaten yolks of e^gg and 
salt ; return to the fire for a few moments then add vanilla 
and butter ; mix well and pour into buttered platters about }4- 
inch thick. When perfectly cold and stifif, cut in squares about 
IjA inches. Roll in fine cracker crumbs, then into beaten 
sweetened egg, and again into cracker crumbs, and fry in 
deep fat till a golden brown. Drain on brown paper; place in 
warm oven for a few moments. Roll in pulverized sugar and 
serve with maple syrup. It is a good plan to make the cus- 
tard the day before it is to be used. 

PRUNE SOUFFLE. 

1 c. prune pulp. 

Whites of 5 eggs. 

^ c. powdered sugar. 

}i tsp. salt. 

1 tsp. vanilla. 

Beat the whites of the egg very stif¥ ; add sugar, salt and 
vanilla ; then fold in the prune pulp. Pour into a buttered 
bread pan and place into a large pan containing boiling water. 
Place in a very hot oven, and bake for exactly 10 minutes. 
Remove the pan which contains the pudding from the one 
containing the boiling water, and allow it to become very 
cold. Serve with whipped cream. 

ENGLISH BREAD PUDDING. 

2J4 c. dried bread crumbs. 

1 c. milk. 

^ c. molasses. 

34 c. butter or .)4 c. chopped suet. 



PRACTICAL COOKERY 



1 c. raisins. 
1 tsp. soda. 
1 tsp. salt. 

1 tsp. cinnamon. 
34 tsp. cloves. 

Mix spices with bread crumbs and salt and raisins ; dis- 
solve soda in small quantity of boiling water; add to mo- 
lasses ; then add molasses and milk to bread crumbs. Mix 
well together, and steam 2 hours. Serve with hard or lemon 
sauce. 

BALDWIN PUDDING. 

1/^ c. bread crumbs. 
y^ c. melted butter. 

2 c. tart apples, sliced very thin. 
y2 c. sugar. 

3 tbsp. lemon juice. 

Ys c. chopped almonds. 

y^ tsp. salt. 

Yj^ grated nutmeg. 

Mix bread crumbs with melted butter ; cover buttered bak- 
ing dish with one-third of the crumbs, then a layer of apples 
and one-half of the other ingredients, then crumbs. There 
should be two layers of apples and three of crumbs. Bake 
for 40 minutes in moderate oven. Serve with hard sauce or 
cream. 

COTTAGE PUDDING. 

1 c. milk. 
1 c. sugar. 

1 c. chopped suet. 

2 c. flour. 

3 tsp. baking powder. 

Y2 tsp. ^'anilla or a little nutmeg. 

Beat tgg, add sugar, then the milk, then the dry ingre- 
dients and suet. Mix well and beat for a few seconds. Bake 
in a moderate oven. Serve hot with whipped cream or foamy 
sauce. 

ENGLISH PLUM PUDDING. 

(Mrs. Plumridge.) 
1 c. brown sugar. 
1 c. molasses. 
1 tsp. mace, salt, nutmeg. 
1 lb. currants. 
1 lb. raisins. 



PRACTICAL COOKERY 



3/2 lb. citron. 

1 lb. beef suet, mixed with salt. 

Yz lb. almonds, blanched and chopped. 

8 eggs, beaten separately. 

1 c. of milk. 

Beat eggs and sugar to cream ; add suet, milk and fruit ; 
33/2 cups of bread crumbs. 

CHOCOLATE FUDGE PUDDING. 

(Boston C. S. Magazine.) 
13^ square melted chocolate. 

2 tbsp. sugar. 
34 c. water. 

3 yolks eggs. 

1 white of ^^^■ 
Yz c. sugar. 

1 c. milk. 

Melt chocolate and add the 2 tablespoons of sugar and the 
34 cup water, and stir until smooth and boiling. Beat yolks 
of eggs and add Yz cup sugar, beat again, then fold in the 
beaten white ; then add the chocolate mixture and 1 cup milk, 
and mix thoroughly. Butter some custard cups, then dredge 
them with granulated sugar, pour in the mixture, set on folds 
of cloth in a baking dish surrounded with boiling water, and 
bake in moderate oven till firm. The water in dish should 
not boil. 

CHOCOLATE FUDGE SAUCE. 

2 squares chocolate. 
Ya c. sugar. 

34 c. boiling water. 

1 tbsp. corn starch. 

^ c. sugar. 

Y2 c. boiling water. 

Cook first three ingredients together. Mix corn starch 
with Yx cup "sugar and add Y^ cup boiling water to the choco- 
late mixture ; add sugar and corn starch, and cook all to- 
gether for five minutes. 

FRUIT PUDDING. 

Y2 c. sugar. 

1 c. Quaker oats. 

1 c. chopped suet. 

Y2 c. molasses. 

Y2 c. sweet milk. 

Y2 c. chopped raisins. 

Yi. c. currants. 



PRACTICAL COOKERY 



Yz c. nuts. 

1 c. flour. 

Yi tsp. soda. 

Yt. tsp. cinnamon. 

1 tsp. salt. 

Mix sugar and suet together, add molasses, then milk and 
dry ingredients, and last the fruit. Sift dry ingredients to- 
gether. Sprinkle fruit with flour. Steam four hours. Serve 
with caramel or hard sauce. 

CARAMEL SAUCE. 

2 c. sugar. 
Y2 c. butter. 
1 tbsp. flour. 
Ij^ c. water. 
Grated nutmeg. 
Ya tsp. salt. 

Mix sugar and flour, add butter and water, salt and nut- 
meg. Boil slowly for half an hour. 

FRITTERS. 

Fritter batter may be used for fruit, vegetables or meat 
fritters. With very acid fruits, it is a help to add a little sugar 
to the batter. 

In using apples, use only tart apples that will cook very 
quickly. They must be sliced very thin. In making banana 
fritters it is better to leave the banana whole, as it makes 
an attractive shape. It will cook through and still not be 
soft nor discolored. 

Fritters that are served as dessert should be rolled in pow- 
dered sugar. The lard in which fritters are cooked should 
not be too hot. When the fritters are cooked they should be 
drained on brown paper. 

FRITTER BATTER. 

1 ^^%. 

Ya tsp. salt. 

Ya c. milk. 

\Ya ^- flour. 

1 tsp. baking powder. 

Beat ^^g lightly, add milk, then the dry ingredients, and 
beat well. It is well to try a little of the batter, and if it 
seems too thin add a little more flour. 

JAPANESE FRITTERS. 

2 eggs. 



1 c. milk. 

1 tbsp. sugar. 

1 tsp. flavoring. 



154 



PRACTICAL COOKERY 



1-inch cubes of bread, some fine bread crumbs. 

Mix egg, milk, sugar together, and pour over the cubes 
of bread. Then roll the cubes into fine crumbs and fry in 
deep fat till golden brown. Drain on brown paper, and roll 
in powdered sugar, and serve with lemon sauce. 
LEMON SAUCE. 

Yz c. brown sugar. 

1 tbsp. corn starch. 

1 c. boiling water. 

2 tbsp. butter. 

Grated rind and juice of ^ lemon. 

Pinch of salt and grated nutmeg. 

Cream butter, corn starch and sugar together. Add boil- 
ing water, lemon, salt and nutmeg, and cook for 15 minutes, 
stirring constantly. 

LEMON PUDDING. 

2 c. flour. 

2 tbsp. baking powder. 

1 tbsp. sugar. 

2 tbsp. lard. 
Yi tsp. salt. 

Water enough to make a soft dough. Press this dough 
without rolling it into the bottom of large baking dish which 
has been well greased. 

3 eggs. 

2 c. sugar. 

2 tbsp. butter. 

2 lemons, grated rind of one. 

4 c. boiling water. 

Beat eggs slightly, add sugar, lemon juice and butter 
and grated rind, then the boiling water. Allow this mixture 
to come to the boiling point; then pour over the dough, and 
in a moment the dough will rise to the top of dish. Place in 
a moderate oven and bake three-quarters of an hour. 
MARSHMALLOW SAUCE. 

Boil y^ cup sugar and ^ cup milk for six minutes with- 
out stirring until syrup threads. Set aside to cool. When 
lukewarm beat until thick and white. Set the pan in boiling 
water and stir till thin enough to pour (then stir ^ pound 
marshmallows and 2 tablespoons water until smooth). Pour 
syrup over melted marshmallows and beat thoroughly. Kee]) 
warm while in use. 

CREAMY SAUCE. 
2 eggs. 
1 c. sugar. 

155 



PRACTICAL COOKERY 



1 lemon. 

1 c. grated apple. 

Beat the yolks and sugar, add grated rind of half a lemon 
and juice of lemon, then the beaten whites and the apple 
gradually. Cook three minutes over boiling water, stirring 
constantly. 

GOLDEN SAUCE. 

J/2 c. butter. 

1 c. light-brown sugar. 
y2 c. fruit juice. 

yi tsp. mace. 

2 yolks of ^g^. 

Cream butter and sugar, put o\er hot water, stir until 
liquid; then add beaten yolks, mace and fruit juice, and stir 
until it thickens. Serve at once. 

HARD SAUCE. 

2 c. powdered sugar. 
Yi, c. butter. 

1 tsp. vanilla and a little grated nutmeg. 

White of 1 ^^^. (The t^^ may be omitted.) 

Cream the l)utter, add the sugar gradually, beating until 

it is light and creamy. Add the flavoring, and beat again ; 

then the white of ^^^. 

FOAMY SAUCE. 

3 tbsp. butter. 

Yz c. powdered sugar. 

y^ tsp. salt. 

1 tsp. vanilla. 

Yx tsp. lemon extract. 

1 egg- 

Y2 c. boiling water. 

Cream the butter, add the sugar and vanilla and the yolk 
of the ^^%, beaten until light. Add the boiling water slowly 
Beat the white until stiff; add this to the other ingredients, 
and beat until the whole mixture is light and foamy. 

CHOCOLATE SAUCE. 

2 squares chocolate. 

1 c. powdered sugar. 

1 c. milk or cream. 

Yz c. water. 

1 tbsp. butter. 

Y% tsp. salt. 

1 tsp. vanilla. 

Y?, tsp. cinnamon. 

156 



PRACTICAL COOKERY 



Melt chocolate, add sugar, salt, water and butter. Mix 
well and cook for a few minutes, then add the milk, cook for 
a few minutes longer, remove from fire and add seasoning. 
If too thick, add more milk. 



157 



PRACTICAL COOKERY 



CHAPTER XXVI. 



ICE CREAM. 
General Rules. 

The can, cover and dasher of the freezer should be scalded 
and then chilled before tht mixture which is to be frozen is 
placed in it. Adjust the can carefully in the tub before pack- 
ing. I\)ur in the mixture, put in the dasher, cover, adjust 
the crank and pack with hnely chopped ice and rock salt; this 
must be higher around the can than the mixture is inside. 

Use three times as much ice as salt for freezing; use four 
times as much ice as salt in packing. 

In freezing ice cream the crank should be turned slowly 
and steadily ; in freezing sherbet the crank should be turned 
rapidly and steadily ; in freezing water ice or frozen fruit 
turn the crank steadily five minutes, allow it to stand five 
minutes, turn again five minutes, and continue until freezing 
is completed. 

When mixture is frozen, remove ice and salt from around 
the top of the can ; wipe cover and top ; uncover and remove 
dasher, scrape it ; then beat frozen mixture thoroughly with 
wooden spoon or paddle ; place paraffin paper or heavy paper 
over can ; cover and put a cork in the hole. Drain ofif all the 
water which has collected during the freezing and wdiich 
should nt)t be removed until freezing is completed ; repack 
the freezer, putting ice and salt over the top, cover with 
carpet, blanket or newspaper and allow it to stand in a cold 
place several hours. 

In preparing frozen fruit or water ice the sugar and water 
should be made into a syrup, which should be boiled five 
minutes, then strained; in preparing ice cream wi-th fruit, 
the sugar and crushed fruit should stand one hour in a cool 
place, or until the sugar is dissolved, then add cream and 
freeze ; in preparing ice creams without fruit the cream should 
be scalded and the sugar dissolved in it; cool, add flavoring 
and freeze. 

Parfaits are cream combinations that are packed solidly 
in salt and ice for four hours or longer. 

VANILLA ICE CREAM. 

1 qt. cream. 
1 c. sugar. 

2tbsp. vanilla extract. 

Part milk may be used, in which case add the beaten 
white of one egg. 



PRACTICAL COOKERY 



In making creams it is economy to use half milk and 
double-cream. Boiling the milk with the sugar, and adding 
a speck of salt, then remove from the fire and adding 2 tea 
spoons of gelatine, which has been dissolved in 34 cup cold 
milk. Then cool, add cream which has been whipped and^ 
flavoring. Two squares of melted chocolate may be added if 
desired. 

ORANGE ICE CREAM. 

2 c. sugar. 

1 c. water. 

2 c. orange juice. 

1 c. milk. 

2 eggs. 

1 c. double cream (whipped). 

y^ tsp. salt. 

Boil sugar and water and salt eight minutes, then add 
orange juice. Beat yolks of eggs light, add milk which should 
be boiling hot ; cook in double boiler for a few seconds, then 
cool. Combine the two mixtures together and add the 
whipped cream and the wdiites of eggs beaten stilT. Freeze. 

ORANGE WATER ICE. 

1 qt. water. 

2 c. sugar. 

2 c. orange juice. 
34 c. lemon juice. 
Boil grated rind of two oranges in the syrup. 

LEMON ICE. 

4 c. water. 
2 c. sugar. 
^ c. lemon juice. 

1 tsp. gelatine dissolved in 2 tbsp. cold water. 
Boil sugar and water together 20 minutes, remove from 
fire, add gelatine and lemon juice, strain and freeze. 

CARAMEL ICE CREAM. 

1 c. sugar. 

34 c. boiling water. 

1 qt. cream. 

1/2 c. sugar. 

Melt sugar in iron pan ; when caramel stage is reached, 
add boiling water gradually ; mix with hot cream and sugar. 
When cool, freeze. 

One cup of maple syrup may be used instead of carameled 
sugar. 

159 



PRACTICAL COOKERY 



CHOCOLATE ICE CREAM. 
2 oz. chocolate. . 
1 qt. cream. 
94 c. sugar. 
Yz tsp. vanilla. 
Spk. cinnamon. 

Melt chocolate, add cream and sugar ; boil eight minutes. 
When cool, add vanilla, and freeze. 

ANGEL PARFAIT. 

1 c. sugar. 

Yx c. water. 

Whites 3 eggs. 

1 pt. double cream (whipped). 

1 tbsp. vanilla. 

Boil sugar and water until syrup will thread when 
dropped from tip of spoon. Pour slowly on the beaten whites 
of eggs, beating until the mixture is cool ; add the whi])ped 
cream and vanilla. Pour into an ice cream mold and ]:)ack 
in salt and ice for three hours. 

Chopped cherries, marshmallows and ground nuts may be 
added to this. 

APPLE PARFAIT. 

4 c. thick apple sauce, highly seasoned. 

Whites of 2 eggs. 

1 pt. double cream (whipped). 
Yx c. chopped nuts. 

Beat the whites of the eggs and add them to the apple 
sauce ; fold in the whipped cream, and add the nuts. Pour 
into an ice cream mold and pack in salt and ice for four 
hours. 

MARSHMALLOW ICE CREAM. 

Yz c. sugar. 

2 c. double cream (whipped stiff). 
2 c. milk. 

Y2 lb. marshmallows. 

Y2. c. chopped nuts. 

Ya c. chopped almonds. 

2 tsp. vanilla. 

Y2 c. cherries. 

Allow milk and sugar to come to boiling point, remove 
from fire, and when partly cool, add the marshmallows. Cut 
in half (be sure they are perfectly fresh). When perfectly 
cold add vanilla, cherries; cut in halves and add the whipped 
cream. 



PRACTICAL COOKERY 



STRAWBERRY WHIP. 

^ or 1 c. sugar. 

1 box strawberries. 

White of 1 egg. 

Wash the berries and put them into a large bowl with 
the sugar and unbeaten white of egg. Beat with whisk until 
firm enough to stand up stifif. Serve in cups lined with lady 
fingers. Perl top with whipped cream. 

CRANBERRY SHERBET. 

1 qt. cranberry syrup, sweetened. 

Juice of 1 lemon. 

When cranberry syrup is boiling hot add 1 teaspoon gela- 
tine which has been softened in 2 tablespoons of cold water. 
Then freeze. When mixture is partly frozen add the beaten 
white of 1 egg in which 2 tablespoons of powdered sugar has 
been added, repack and freeze stifT. 

RASPBERRY ICE CREAM. 

(Mrs. Moreno.) 
ly^ pts. double cream (whipped). 
Juice 1 box raspberries, squeezed dry. 
1 c. sugar. 
Stirred and frozen. 



161 



PRACTICAL COOKERY 



CHAPTER XXVII. 



SANDWICHES. 

It would be hard to give definite rules for making sand- 
wiches, so many different things may be made into attractive 
fillings. Small left-overs of meat or \egetables. or fruit, if 
blended properly, will make good fillings. 

What is true of soups and salads is also true of sand- 
wiches. Inventiveness and artistic ability in combining ma- 
terials count for much. 

Sandwiches should be cut neatly if used in boxes for 
lunches. They should be wrapped separately in oiled paper. 
If they are to be kept for several hours, before using it is best 
to wraj) them in a damp cloth. This will keep them fresh 
and moist. 

FILLINGS. 

1. Equal parts of boned and skinned sardines and cream 
cheese mixed to paste. 

2. Chipped beef chopped fine, mixed with olives, pickles, 
mayonnaise, cream cheese, nuts, green peppers and thin slices 
of cucumbers. 

3. Princess Sandwich. — Beat to a paste the yolks of 
four hard-boiled eggs with a tablespoonful of butter, a few 
drops of tobasco sauce, five small sour pickles, cho])ped fine, 
and salt and pepper to taste. 

4. Egg and Olive. — Chop together very fine four hard- 
boiled eggs and one dozen olives, half a cup of parmeson 
cheese, one tablespoon of melted butter. Salt to taste and 
enough mayonnaise to make mixture smooth. 

5. Ribbon Sandwich. — Take three squares of thin slices 
of white bread and two corresponding slices of Boston brown 
bread, butter a slice of white bread, then put upon it a slice 
of brown bread; alternate in this manner until slices are used 
up. Press down hard. 

6. Chopped Olives and Cheese. — Put between slices of 
bread and then toasted on both sides. 

6 hard-boiled eggs. 

Yz doz. olives. 

Yz doz. sweet cucumber pickles. 

^ c. chopped almonds. 



162 



PRACTICAL COOKERY 



CHAPTER XXVIII. 



COOKING IN PAPER BAGS AND FIRELESS 
COOKERS. 

The method of cooking in paper bags and tireless cookers 
are about the same. The advantages in either of these 
methods are as follows : 

1. The food is superior in flavor and nutritive value, be- 
cause none of the good extractives have been lost by evapo- 
ration. 

2. There is practically no shrinkage in weight. 

3. Food requires no basting. 

4. It is a cleanly method and prevents all strong odors 
from escaping. 

5. These methods will help to soften the tough fibers of 
meat. The juices are all retained, thus improving the flavor 
of the meat. 

6. Paper bags are excellent for warming over roasts, 
chops, bread or cakes. They will taste as though just freshly 
cooked 

7. The bag mav be greased on the inside specially for 

fish and pudding. 

8. The oven must be moderate and the bag contaming 
the food must be placed on a grid, and not on a solid baking 
sheet. This would prevent the air from circulating around 
the food. The grid on which the food is placed should be 
put on the groove nearest the top of the oven. 

9. If there is an odor of burning paper it is a sign the 
oven is too warm. 

10. The bags should be placed in the oven with the seam 
side up; this will prevent any leakage. The bag containing 
the food should be fastened securely with clips after the end 
of the bag has been rolled over three times. 

The following table compiled by Mr. Senn gives the aver- 
age time when food should be tender and fit to serve: 
Fish (flat). — Allow 15 minutes to the pound. 
Meat (beef and mutton). — Twenty minutes to the pound 
Meat (veal and pork). — Twenty-five minutes to the i)ound 
Meat Stews. — About 45 to 60 minutes. 
Kidney and Liver (sliced). — About 8 minutes. 
\'egetab1e Stews. — About 30 minutes. 
Sausages. — About 10 minutes. 
Bacon (sliced). — About 10 minutes. 



PRACTICAL COOKERY 



Potatoes (sliced) and Carrots. — From 25 to 30 minutes. 
Pastry, Rissoles and Patties — About 15 minutes. 
Eggs — About 6 minutes. 
Chicken — Thirty to 45 minutes. 



164 



PRACTICAL COOKERY 



CHAPTER XXIX. 



CULINARY DICTIONARY. 



A I'Estragon — With tarragon. 

A ia Neige — In the style of snow. 

A la Poulette — Meat or fish warmed 
in a white sauce with yolks of 
eggs. 

A la Relne — Of the queen. 

Allemande — A thick, white sauce 
made with cream and the yolks 
of eggs, and seasoned with nut- 
meg and lemon juice. 

Angelica — A plant, the stems of 
which are preserved in syrup, and 
used for decorating pastry, etc. 

Anguilles — Eels. 

Asperges — Asparagus. 

Aspic Jelly — A transparent jelly made 
with stock, and used for garnish- 
ing. 

Au Beurre roux — With browned but- 
ter. 

Au vert Pie — With sweet herbs. 

Aux Cressons — With watercress. 

Aux Rognons — With kidneys. 

Baba — A very light yeast cake soaked 
in rum. 

Bannock — Primitive cake without 
yeast, cooked on a griddle, in Scot- 
land made of peas, barley and 
oatmeal, in America of cornmeal. 

Barbecue — To roast any animal 
whole, usually in the open air. 

Baron of Beef — The two sirloins not 
cut down the back. Formerly a 
favorite dish in England. 

Baron of Lamb — The entire loin, not 
divided at the backbone, with the 
upper part of both legs. 

Bavaroise — Bavarian. 

Bearnaise — A rich egg sauce flavored 
with tarragon, named from Beam, 
birthplace of Henry IV of France. 

B6casses — Woodcock. 

Bechamel — A white sauce made with 
stock and cream, named from a 
celebrated cook. 

Beurre noil — Browned butter. 

Bisque — A shellfish soup. 

Blanch — To parboil, to scald vege- 
tables, nuts, etc., in order to re- 
move their hulls or skins. 

Blanquette — Any white meat warmed 
in a white sauce thickened with 
eggs. 

Bouchees — Very small Patties. 

Boeuf — Beef. 

Bouillabasse — Several kinds of fish 
boiled quickly, and highly seasoned 
with onion, orange peel, saffron, 
oil, etc. 

Bouille — Broth made from beef. 

Bouilli — Beef stewed, generally in 
one large piece, and served with a 
sauce. 

Bouquet or Fagot of Herbs — A sprig 
of each of the herbs used in sea- 
soning, rolled up in a spiay of 
parsley and tied securely. 



Braising — Stewing in a covered pan, 
with heat applied both below and 
above. 

Brawm — Head cheese. 

Bretonne — A puree of red onions. 

Brioche Paste — Cakes made with 
yeast. 

Broche — -A spit. 

Brochette — A skewer. 

Bru noise — Brown soup or sauce. 

Cafe au Lait^Coffee with hot milk. 

Cafe noir — BlacK coffee. 

Caille — Quail. 

Canellons — Puff paste baked round a 
form of cardboard, shaped like a 
cane. 

Cannelon of Meat — Minced and high- 
ly seasoned meat, baked in the 
form of a large roll. 

Capon — A chicken castrated for the 
purpose of improving the quality 
of the flesh. 

Caramel — A syrup of burnt sugar, 
named after Count Caramel, who 
discovered what is called the sev- 
enth degree of cooking sugai. 

Cardoon — A vegetable resembling the 
artichoke. 

Casserole — A mold formed of rice or 
potato, and filled with a rechauffe. 

Champignons — Mushrooms. 

Charlotte — A preparation of cream 
or fruit, formed in a mold, lined 
with cake or fruit. 

Chartreuse — A pi-eparation of game, 
fillets, etc., molded in jelly and 
surrounded by vegetables. Invent- 
ed by the monks of the monastery 
of Chartreuse as a convenient way 
of disguising meat. 

Chervil — The leaf of an European 
plant used as a salad. 

Chou -fleur — Cauliflower. 

Chutney — A hot acid sauce made 
from apples, tomatoes, raisins, 
cayenne, ginger, garlic, shalots. 
salt, sugar, lemons, and vinegar. 

Citron — The rind of a fruit of the 
lemon species pi'eserved in sugar. 

Cochineal — Coloring matter made 
from the dried bodies of insects 
found in Mexico, where they feed 
on a species of the cactus. 

Collops — Meat cut in small pieces. 

Compote — Fruit stewed in syrup. 

Confitures — Preserves. 

Consomm6 — Very rich stock. 

Coriander — A plant cultivated for its 
tender leaves, which are used in 
soups and salads and in making 
curry powder. 

Cornichons — Pickles. 

Cotelettes — Cutlets. 

Cculis — A rich, brown gravy. 

Creme Brul6e — Browned sugar or 
caramel with cream. 

Creole A la — With tomatoes. 

Crevettes — Shiinip. 



PRACTICAL COOKERY 



Crimp To iiiiise lo ('(nil i act , or rcii- Haricot- A small bean; a l)it. A 

(Icr iiion- I'l-isp, ;is llic llcsli of a slew in wliich the meat and veg- 

tisli hy K^isliint;: it, vvliiU' living. I'taMcs arc liiiely dlvitleil. 

witli a Utiil'o. Hodge-podge A Scotch meat stew. 

Croquettes A preparation of mince Homard — l-obster. 

with a bread-crumbed coating, and Hors-d'oeuvres — llelishes. 

cooUeil till crisp. Huitres i).\sters. 

Croustsde— A l<lnd <if i)atty of biead Jr.mbon -Ham. 

or pi'epared I'ice. Jardiniere — A mixed prepai-ation of 

Crouton— .\ sippet of Hied or toasted vegetables stewed in their own 

liread. sauce; a KJiinish of various veg- 

Crumpet -liaised inidfins l)aked on a ctables. 

;;ii(ldle. Julenne — .\ i-lcar soup with slired- 

de, d'.— Of; as, filet de boeuf, lillcl of <lcd vegetables. 

beef. Kabobs — A dish of meat with India 

D6sosser -To bone. curry. 

Deviled Seas< ned hotl.v. Kirsch-kuchen Certiian cherry cake. 

Dinde TtirUej'. Kippered I iried or smoked. 

En Coqu.lle Sei-ved in shells. KcumssMilk fermented with yeast. 

En Papillote — In papers. Laitue— Lettuce. 

Endive .\ plant of the (\)inposit<- Lardcon — The piece of salt pork or 

famil.\', used as a salad. bacon used in larding. 

Entries Small m.idc dishes ser\eil Lentils .\ variety of the bean tribe 

with the lirst <-ourse at an elal)o- used in soups, etc. 

rate dinner. Laison Tile mixture of egg yolks. 

Entrements - Second course side cream, etc., used for thickening. 

dishes, including vegetables, eggs. Marinate— To pickle or to sprinkle 

and sweets. Macedolne— A mixture of fruit mold- 

Epigrammes Small hllcts ol poul- ,.,] j,, j.^ny. ,,,. „f vegetables. 

try, gam.s and lamb prcpaicd as Madeline— A kind of pound cake. 

an eMti<''c. Malgre nislies for fast days, made 

Espannole — .\ neb, brown sauce, the without llcsh 

foundation of inost brown sauces. Maitre d'Hotel— Master of the hotel. 

Epinards Spinach. Mango -A kidnev-shaped, sub-tropi- 

Eperlans Smelts. e;,! f,.„i( „f variable (lualitv, used 

Falsan I'lieasanl. gi'een for pickles, and lipe for des- 

Fanchonnettes, Florentines — Small „,.,.( 

pastries covered with a mf>ringue. Maraschino- A kind of brandy. 

Farcle— A kind of force-meat or Marinade— A pickle for boiling tneat 

stullmg. ... , , or (Ish in. 

Fillets- Long, thin pieces of meat or ^lith a F'rench dressing 

lish, g.^nerally rolled and tied. Marrons— Chestnuts. 

^o\e — Ijiver. Mayonna'se — Cold sauce, or salad 

Fondant -- Melting. I'.oiled sugar, dressing, of raw eggs and oil, 

basis of French candy, (vienu A bill of fare. 

Fondue— A preparation of melted M6rimue— A kind of icing made of 

cheese. white of egg and su'.4ar well beaten. 

Fricandeau A thick piece of meat Mirepoix- A ricti, brown broth used 

lari'ed and browned, and stewed in jjj braising meat 

stock, or baked and covered with -» ^ t- 

j,l;,55t. Oeufs -Rggs. 

Frlc'asse— A stew in whicli the meat Ognon--_Onions 



is fiVsl fried slightlv. Okra The green jnucihiginous pods 

Fromaie— Cheese "' "" =>n"i":>I P'ant, used in tlie 

G>ac6- Covered with i<- ng. •^"""' '"'• «""!'« ='"'' P'<'l<l>^s. 

Glaze Stock boiled down to a thin Pana's Parsnips. 

paste. Pat6 aux Choux— (^ream-cake paste, 

GnccchI — A light. savory dough so called bee a use when baked it 

boiled, served with Parmesan. resembles a head of cabbage. 

G'-ulasch — A Hungarian beef stew, Pat6 de Fole gras .\ pie of fat liv- 

liiuhlv seasoned. crs. 

Gratins Served in a lich sauci' vvitli Psrdreux— Partridge. 

hrowne.l crumbs. Petits Pols — Peas 
Grilled - Hroiled. Pigeonnaux— Squab. 
Grcsellles- Ctirrants. Pimento .Allspice or .lamaica pep- 
Gumbo A dish of food maile of per. 

yiiiiig capsules of okra, with salt Pistachio .\ pale meenisli nut re- 

and pepiier. stewed and sel\ed semblinL' the almond. 

with melted butter. Po'sson Fish. 

Gumbo F let Powder Made from tli" Pommes Api)Ies. 

teii'ier voiing lea\es of tile sassa- Pommes de Terre Potatoes. 

fras. i)icke(l in tlie spring, and Pot-au-feu - The slock pot. 

dried carefullv in the shade like any Potaae-.\ soup. 

herb. Powdered tine and bottled Pot-Pourri .\ mixt\iie of minced 

tight. I'sed in .New Orleans. cooked meat and vegetables. A 



PRACTICAL COOKERY 



mixtui'e of fiuits and sugai'. 

Poulet — A chicken. 

Praline — Flavor witli burnt almond. 

Pur6e — A thick soup rubbed through 
a .sif^ve. 

Quenelle — A delicate foi'ce-meat used 
in entrees. 

Ragout — A highly seasoned stew flav- 
ored with wine. 

Ramakins — A preparation of cheese 
and puff pa.ste or toast, baked oi- 
browned. 

Ratlfias — Almond cakes. A kind of 
li(luor flavor-ed with nuts. 

R6chauffe — Anything warmed over. 

Rissoles — Small shapes of puff paste 
filled with some mixture, and fi-ied 
or baked. Or balls of minced meat, 
egged and crumbed, and fried till 
crisp. 

Rlzotta — Italian rice and cheese. 

Roux — Thickening made with butter 
and flour. 

Salpicon — A mince of poultry, ham, 
and other meats used for' entries. 

Sauce Piquante — An acid sauce. 

Saut6 — Kiicd and tossed over in a 
little fat. 

Scones — Scotch cakes of meal or 
flour-. 

Soubise Sauce — A puree of white on- 



ions nanred after- I'rince Soubise. 

Souffle — A very light pudding or om- 
elet. The name means "puffed 
up." 

Soy — A Japanese sauce prepared from 
the seeds of Dollchos Soja. It has 
an agreeable flavor- and a clear, 
brfjwn color. Used to c(jlor soups 
and sauces. 

Stock — The essence exti-acted from 
meat. 

Sultanas — White or yellow seedless 
grapes, grown in Corinth. 

Tarragon — An herb, the leaves of 
which are used as seasoning and in 
flavor-ing vinegar. 

Timbale — A drum-like shell of rice 
or macaroni fllled with force-meat 
or ragout. 

Turbans — Ornamental drum-shaped 
cases containing entrees made of 
force-meat and fillets of game, etc. 

Velout6 — A smooth, white sauce. 

Vinaigrette Sauce — With acid wine or 
vinegar. 

Vol-au-vent — A crust of very light 
puff paste, filled with oyster-s or 
chickens, warmed in a cream 
.sauce, or filled with fruit. 

Zest of lemon — The grated or shaved 
yellow layer of oil cells. 

Zwejback — Bread toasted twice. 



\b1 



PRACTICAL COOKERY 



INDEX. 



Pages 

Abbreviations and equivalents 15 

Apple sauce 48 

Apple, baked 49 

Apple, baked, caramel 49 

Apple dumplings 132 

Apple, fried 4i 

Apple p vrfait 160 

Apple Pie 132 

Almond paste 145 

Angel pa .-fait 160 

Apricot marmalade 52 

Baking powder biscuits 120 

Barley 37 

Batters and doughs 115 

Beans, canned 54 

Beans, spiced 55 

Beans, baked with pork 87 

Beef: 

Location of different cuts 68 

General directions for roasting 

and broiling 71 

Cooking of tough cuts 71 

Beef stew 72 

Beef casserole 73 

Beef loaf 73 

Beef chartreuse with rice 73 

Corn beef hash 74 

Cottage pie 74 

Fillet of beef 77 

Hamburg steak 76 

Hash on toast 74 

Meat souffle 76 

Pigs in blankets 75 

Roast beef 77 

Swiss steak 75 

Spanish steak 75 

Beets canned 54 

Beverages 18 

Breakfast cocoa 21 

Bread : 

General directions 123-124 

Plain white bread 124 

Bread cases 128 

Bran bread 126 

Boston brown bread 121 

Corn bread 117 

Grape nut brown bread 122 

Nut bread 121-125 

Uses for stale bread 127-128 

Brown sugar 46 

B'urners of gas ranges 5 

Butter 25 

Butterine 26 

Cabbage 65 

Cakes: 

General directions 136 

Apple sauce cake 140 

Angel cake 137 

Black chocolate cake 138 

Butter cake 137 

Black fruit cake 139 

Canadian fruit cake 138 

Devil's food cake 142 

Ginger bread 143 

Mock angel food cake 140 

Marble cake 140 

Nut cake 142 

Orange cake ...138 

Sponge cake !.!l36 

Sunshine cake 137 



Pages 

Seed cake 139 

Candies: 

Recipes 45-46-47 

Canning of foods 51 

Cei'eals 35 

Charlotte russe (see desserts. 150). 150 
Cheese souffle, Welsh larebit, 

cheese straws 26-27-28 

Cherries (canning) 52 

Chicken (see poultry and game), 

88-91 

Chocolate 19-21 

Coffee 19-21 

(IJookies: 

Boston cookies 143 

Brown sugar cookies 141 

Doughnuts 144 

Marshmallow dainties 144 

Nut cookies 142 

Nut squares 141 

Peanut rookies 141 

Plain cookies iiA 

Rocks 143 

Rolled oat cookies 141 

Corn: 

Canned 54 

Relish . 55 

Pudding 64 

Crust for meat pie 131 

Custard pie 133 

Cheese cake 135 

Cream 24 

Cream puffs 116 

Filling 116 

Crab apple jelly 53 

Cranberry jelly 53 

Croquettes 81 

JTethod of frying and shaping.. 81 
Desserts: 

>pple dumplings 132 

Baldwin pudding 152 

Chocol'ite pudding 149 

Chocolate fudge pudding 153 

Cottage pudding 152 

C -earn puf^s 116 

En,glish plum pulding 151 

English bread pudding 151 

Fried cream 151 

Fruit pudding 153 

Fruit gelatine 148 

Lemon pudding 155 

Maple charlotte russe 150 

Oran.ge charlotte 150 

Orange custard 149 

Prune souffle 151 

Snow pudding 149 

Dish washing 4 

Doughnuts .144 

Dried fi uits 49 

Dumplings for stews 80 

Eggs: 

Beating ;ifl 

Breaking ,30 

oare ;;;; 30 

Recipes for cooking 31 

Egg rolls i?o 

Egg pipnt. fried 62 

Egg plant, stuffed 62 

Fish: 

Salt water fish 93 

I 



PRACTICAL COOKERY 



Pages 

Fresh water fish 94 

Boiled fish 95 

Baked lisli 95 

Balved oreani fish 97 

Codfish hash 96 

F.sh cocked in water 96 

Fish cooked in I'at 96 

Fish stufting 9(5 

Fish balls 96 

Fish Bachamel sauce 97 

Halibut delight 97 

Halibut timbale with peas 97 

Frittefs: 

Fi-itter batters 154 

Japanese fritters 154 

Fiuits: 

Classification . 48 

Composition . . 48 

Fruit punch 22 

Gas stoves 5 

Giape ju ce 22 

Graps jam 53 

Granulated sugar 44 

Griddle cakes 117 

Griddle rice 117 

Griddle orange 117 

Griddle dried bread crumbs 118 

Griddle buckwheat 119 

Ham : 

Boiled 87 

Baked 87 

Inorganic matter 10 

Tee creams: 

Geneial rules 158 

Apple parf ait 160 

Angel parfait 160 

GrB nbeiry sherbet 161 

Caramel ice cream 159 

Chocolate ice cream 160 

Lemon ice 159 

Orange ice 159 

Marshmallow ice cream 160 

Raspberry ice ci'eam 161 

Strawberry whip 161 

Vanilla ice cream 158 

Rings for crkes: 

Almond paste 145 

E'utter cream 146 

Foiled frosting 146 

Chocolate cream filling 146 

Chocolate fudge frosting 146 

Ice cream filling 145 

Material for uncooked icing.... 145 

IVTarshmallow filling 146 

Maple su-rai' fi-osting 147 

Orange filling 147 

Je'lies, general directions 52 

I amb: 

Braised lamb 84 

Crown rib i-oast of Iamb 85 

Cui-iy of mutton 85 

Leg of lamb 85 

Lamb stew 84 

Lard 87 

Legumes 58 

T>emonadp ''2 

Maple sugar 46 

Macaroni: 

Macaroni au gratin B4 

Macaroni croquettes 64 

Molasses taffy 4fi 

Milk > 23 



Pages 
Muffins: 

Plain 119 

Twin mountain 119 

Quaker 119 

^lushrooms, creamed 65 

Noodles 120 

Omelet 32-34 

Oleomargarine 25 

Onions, escalloped 64 

Orange marmalade 53 

Orangeade 22 

Organic matter 10 

Oysters, fried 98 

Fricaseed 98 

Celery . , 99 

Stew 98 

Scalloped 99 

Cocktail in peppers 99 

Peaches, spiced 54 

Canned 52 

Pears, canned 52 

Gingered 52 

Paper bag cookery 163 

Pork: 

Fried chops 86 

Boiled ham 87 

Ham relish 86 

Spare ribs 86 

Fried ham 8<) 

Potatoes: 

Baked 59 

Boiled 61 

Balls and curls 61 

Candied sweet potatoes 61 

Creamed 60 

Escalloped fiO 

Fra uconia 61 

French fried 61 

O'Brien 61 

Lyonnaise 61 

Mashed 60 

Mashed sweet potatoes 62 

Pies: 

General directions 129 

Plain pastry 130 

Flaky pastry 130 

Puff paste 130 

Xear-puff paste 131 

Suet crust 131 

Crust for meat pies LSI 

Apple dumplings 132 

Apple pie 132 

Custard pie 133 

Lemon raisin pie 134 

Lemon pie 135 

Mince meat 134 

Pumpkin pie 133 

Mock mince pie 132 

Fruit pie 133 

Poultry and game: 

Selection 88 

Cleaning and preparing 88 

How to cut a fowl 89 

Roast ch'cken 89 

Fried chicken 91 

Chicken pie 91 

(Crust for chi':>ken pie) 91 

Chicken a la King 91 

Fricaseed chicken 90 

Roast tui-key 90 

Turkey dressing 89 

Giblet sauce 90 



PRACTICAL COOKERY 



Chicken gravy 89 

Chicken stufRng 89 

Pop-overs 116 

Preservation of foods 15 

Refrigerator, care of 3 

Rice 38 

Rock buns 120 

Rolls: 

Plain 125 

Velvet biscuits 126 

Potato muffins 126 

Sweet rolls 127 

Rye 37 

Salt 42 

Sauces: 

Thickening for sauces 108 

Bachamel 110 

Brown sauce Ill 

Cucumber sauce 113 

Caramel sauce 154 

Chocolate fudge sauce 153 

Custard sauce 150 

Cream sauce 110 

Creamy sauce (sweet) 155 

Chocolate sauce 156 

Foamy sauce 156 

Golden sauce 156 

Gravy 109 

Hard sauce 156 

Horseradish sauce 110-111 

Lemon sauce 155 

Marshmallow sauce 155 

Mint sauce 113 

Olive sauce Ill 

Tomato sauce 112 

Tartar sauce 113 

. Sauce tartar 112 

Sauce piquante Ill 

Thick white sauce 110 

Velpute sauce 110 

White sauce 110 

Salads: 

Plain French dressing 101 

Mayonnaise dressing 101 



Boiled salad 102 

Chicken salad 105 

Cold slaw lOS 

Fruit salad 105 

Mixed vegetable salad 102 

Spanish salad 102 

Stuffed tomato salad 102 

Potato 102 

Pineapple and cucumber 104 

Pear and cheese 105 

Stuffed spiced prune 104 

Tomato and green pepper 103 

Tomato jelly 104 

Sandwiches . » ig2 

Sinks, care and cleaning 3 

Soups without meal: 

Vegetable soup 106 

Cream tomato soup 107 

Green pea soup 107 

Strawberry preserves 52 

Spinach . 62 

Sugar 44 

Sweetbreads gs 

Tea — cultivation 19-21 

Temperature use in cooking 13 

Tomato catsup 55 

Towels and dish cloths 4 

Toasts: 

Cream toast 128 

French toast 127 

Veal: 

Blanquette . . 82 

Croquettes ']' gi 

Cutlet 79 

Fricaseed \\ 79 

Loaf ;; ; ; so 

Roast 79 

Pie -, ! '. ! 80 

Fried tomatoes 63 

Stuffed tomatoes .'. 63 

Vegetables . . 57 

Waffles ug 

Water '. *, 9 



III 



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